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Old 07-22-2020, 03:05 PM   #1
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Which is easier to hitch?

Folks:
Which is easier to align for hitching: the Escape 5.0 5th Wheel or the Escape 21C (or 19) Travel Trailer? Which type of RV would give me more tolerance when aligning for hitching?
Thanks, Harry
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Old 07-22-2020, 03:35 PM   #2
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Suggest that depends on the 'driver aides' employed / available.

For example, without any 'spotter', using a modicum of driving skill and the rear-view cam on my Ridgeline toggled to the 'down view', I'm able to 'nail' the position of my hitch-ball with any of my three bumper-pull trailers (RV, 2 different utility trailers), first time every time, making the 'tolerance' for misalignment moot.

My RV has an 'Atwood type' coupler; the utility trailers both have 'bulldog type' couplers; the former is slightly more tolerant to misalignment IME.
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Old 07-22-2020, 03:59 PM   #3
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The 5.0TA is harder to hitch, particularly if you have the Anderson offset. You need to get it pretty well aligned or it does not slide in. Plus you got tail gate issues (raising and lowering). I already put a ding in mine! Ouch!

When using the bumper hitch, and if you have a back up camera you can get it almost perfect every time. I am getting better now with the king pin, but the king pin is a little more difficult with the offset. No biggie! It pulls like a dream! I am a king pin fan! For sure!
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Old 07-22-2020, 04:52 PM   #4
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I've had both and find the 5.0TA easier. I do not have the Anderson so that may be the difference.

They are both fairly easy once you learn how and get used to it.

I think a bumper pull is more tolerant to being off axis.
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Old 07-22-2020, 05:14 PM   #5
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Smile Axle v bumper

A hitch behind the rear axle is easier to shift right or left. The hitch in the truck bed is over the axle and so you have to move the entire axle.
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Old 07-22-2020, 07:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleTim View Post
The 5.0TA is harder to hitch, particularly if you have the Anderson offset. You need to get it pretty well aligned or it does not slide in. Plus you got tail gate issues (raising and lowering). I already put a ding in mine! Ouch!

When using the bumper hitch, and if you have a back up camera you can get it almost perfect every time. I am getting better now with the king pin, but the king pin is a little more difficult with the offset. No biggie! It pulls like a dream! I am a king pin fan! For sure!
I opted for the gooseneck box / hitch. Very difficult until I marked the 5.0 with a 4" strip of wide yellow tape, and on the truck bed same side as trailer (do this when trailer is hitched up).
We use the Go Pro cam aligned at mid point of the ball in the bed and velcroid to the back wall of the cab, the tape helps your partner tell you the distance to the mid point of the ball, and the Go Pro (on my Ipad) tells me exactly when I can set the brake and lower the trailer onto the ball, works every time - with the regular 5th wheel hitch, it would even be easier - from my first attempt without the tape and the GoPro, I bet I was out there 45 min or more, lol. Now? about 5 min max!!
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Old 07-22-2020, 09:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleTim View Post
The 5.0TA is harder to hitch, particularly if you have the Anderson offset. You need to get it pretty well aligned or it does not slide in. Plus you got tail gate issues (raising and lowering). I already put a ding in mine! Ouch!
I respectfully disagree. I have constructed a guide made out of 1/2-inch PVC with an “X” fitting commonly called a cross. Some pieces are glued together but the 2 5-foot pieces can be pulled apart. All told it is around 12-feet long when assembled. The hardest part was figuring out the spacing from the end to the cross piece. Before hooking up, I assemble the pieces, lay the assembly on the ground, and center the end with the cross on a small white dot applied to the frame below the propane cabinet and align the whole assembly with the king pin. It takes me less than a minute. I then use the back up camera and find it very easy to perfectly align the truck as I slowly reverse in the same plane as the PVC, and “follow the pipe in.” As soon as I see the cross piece “touch” the bumper or disappear from view, I know that the pin box is approximately 6-inches from the 5th wheel hitch. I get out, close the tailgate, make the final height adjustment for proper hitching, get back in and complete the process. Disassembling and storing the three PVC pieces takes 30 seconds, but only if I am moving in slow motion. However, it is easy to align and hitch on the first attempt each and every time even when hitching solo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger C H View Post
A hitch behind the rear axle is easier to shift right or left. The hitch in the truck bed is over the axle and so you have to move the entire axle.
I do not disagree with this statement but I would point out that a kingpin does not have to be dead on in order to go into a 5th Wheel hitch (a round ball is a lot smaller target than a slot) and a kingpin only has to be properly located in two planes, up and down and side to side, whereas a coupler also has to be properly positioned in a third plane, front to back. But getting to the contention that it is more difficult to move an entire axle, that is not necessary if you are using a guide on the ground visible in the truck’s monitor; you will never have to reposition the entire axle because it will be perfectly aligned. I use a conventional 5th wheel hitch (Curt), but if someone were to take the time to mark a PVC guide like I have described, one could position the cross fitting so that the moment it goes out of the camera’s view, the Andersen coupler is directly over the ball. Or even with George’s gooseneck set up. In reality, you don’t even need a PVC cross, the pipe can be wrapped in the appropriate spot with red or yellow electrical tape (or a magic marker if you don’t want to spring for a roll of brightly colored tape). The hardest part is the initial setup. When I made my guide, I sat in the truck, in reverse with foot on the brake, and had my wife slowly move a paint stir stick toward the truck. When it was at the appropriate reference point I yelled “stop,” she marked the PVC pipe and then I installed the cross fitting.
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Old 07-22-2020, 09:43 PM   #8
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Maybe I'll get better with age. I'm new at this.

I am not constructing any PVC guides, but I do like the extra camera idea. Plus you can take it down after hook up. I just can't see back there very well.

So many good answers. When do I get to buy you guys a beer?
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Old 07-22-2020, 10:01 PM   #9
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Either a fifth-wheel or a ball hitch has to be aligned relatively accurately in two dimensions, and just need some clearance in the third.

With a ball hitch (conventional trailer or Andersen conversion on 5.0) the ball needs to align laterally (left/right) and longitudinally (front/back) with trailer's coupler. The accuracy required depends on the shape of the coupler mouth; the Andersen now has a big funnel, but with most conventional couplers you need to be within about the radius of the ball. The trailer coupler just needs to be high enough to not hit while manoeuvring, then is lowered onto the ball.

With a fifth-wheel, the hitch needs to align laterally and vertically with the pin. The lateral accuracy required depends on the opening in the plate which is always a funnel; the trailer can be too high but if it is a bit low it gets wedged up onto the hitch as it couples. To start the truck just needs to be ahead of the trailer, and distance is automatically taken up by backing the truck until the hitch couples.

Both systems have other steps: ball hitches need safety chains hooked up, and any hitch in the truck bed requires putting the tailgate down and likely putting it back up before backing the rest of the way in (unless you have a special tailgate). A ball hitch needs to be latched; a fifth-wheel hitch usually latches automatically but needs to be checked and in some cases should have some safety pin engaged.

One advantage of the 5.0 is that the driver may be able to see the hitch and trailer from the driver's seat; that's not possible with a conventional ("bumper pull") trailer, except with a camera.
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Old 07-22-2020, 10:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
One advantage of the 5.0 is that the driver may be able to see the hitch and trailer from the driver's seat; that's not possible with a conventional ("bumper pull") trailer, except with a camera.
Brian, I wish. But all three of my F-150s have been extended cabs and there is no way I can see the hitch from the driver’s seat, and I would suspect the crew cab wouldn’t provide any better visibility. My hitch sits too low in the bed. Perhaps in a truck with the rear window immediately behind the driver’s head, but I do not want to give up the back seat for the dry storage and/or passenger carrying ability.
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Old 07-22-2020, 10:15 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
Brian, I wish. But all three of my F-150s have been extended cabs and there is no way I can see the hitch from the driver’s seat, and I would suspect the crew cab wouldn’t provide any better visibility. My hitch sits too low in the bed. Perhaps in a truck with the rear window immediately behind the driver’s head, but I do not want to give up the back seat for the dry storage and/or passenger carrying ability.

That is my experience as well. Well said!
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Old 07-22-2020, 10:21 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by UncleTim View Post
Maybe I'll get better with age. I'm new at this.

I am not constructing any PVC guides, but I do like the extra camera idea. Plus you can take it down after hook up. I just can't see back there very well.

Yes, a PVC guide would not work for everyone, particularly if you go to use it and it’s battery is discharged. I’ve got to plug mine in frequently to make sure it stays charged and ready for use!

Honestly, I have found many of the accessory cameras available suffer from interference problems, including the IBall Camera and I’m not going to shell out the amount of cash it takes to purchase a Go Pro just to hook up.


So many good answers. When do I get to buy you guys a beer?
I truly wish we could all get together and have a few beers, coffee, or whatever beverage is your drink of choice. And to be able to socialize again.
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Old 07-22-2020, 10:34 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
Brian, I wish. But all three of my F-150s have been extended cabs and there is no way I can see the hitch from the driver’s seat, and I would suspect the crew cab wouldn’t provide any better visibility. My hitch sits too low in the bed. Perhaps in a truck with the rear window immediately behind the driver’s head, but I do not want to give up the back seat for the dry storage and/or passenger carrying ability.
Crew cabs are even worse than extended cabs on this respect, but midsize trucks have shorter cabs and there are even still regular cabs available. Visibility also depends on the height of the bed sides and cab window, hitch height, driver's head height (which is a matter of both how tall you are and how you sit), fore/aft position of the hitch, and stuff (storage box, tonneau cover...) in the front of the bed. I don't doubt that in most cases the hitch and pin can't be seen by the driver; it's only a potential advantage. Even if the hitch can't be seen directly, if it's close small alignment guides are practical.

In my van, I find that if there isn't too much cargo (and the third row seat isn't up) I can open the hatch and see the trailer's tongue jack versus the rear of the van well enough to typically get the ball under the coupler accurately enough in one try, which is handy.
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Old 07-23-2020, 05:49 AM   #14
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I found a super, simple solution for aligning my Andersen Ultimate hitch to the ball receiver on my 5.0. I use a telescoping magnetic pickup tool like this one: https://www.amazon.com/SE-8036TM-NEW.../dp/B000RB3XBA

I simply put the tool on the bolt head on the hitch that you use to torque down the hitch to the gooseneck ball in the truck. This bolt head is just forward of the hitch ball on top of the hitch. I extend the tool so it is visible in my interior rear view mirror in the truck.

On the pin box of the trailer, I have some orange electrical tape marking the center line of the pin box. It is really easy to line up the tool in my rear view to the tape as I back up. As soon as the front edge of the pin box touches the tool, I stop. Now the ball and the Anderson ball adapter are perfectly lined up side to side AND forward and aft! Retract the landing gear, lock the pin and I’m hitched. Easy Peasy.

(I still have to get out once during this process to raise the tailgate after the pin-box clears it. If my wife is around, she does it.)

Edit: Next time I hook up, I’ll take pictures.
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Old 07-23-2020, 06:59 AM   #15
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Sounds like a good idea.
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Old 07-23-2020, 07:28 AM   #16
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Both are quite easy to hook up.

With a backup camera on the two, the bumper hitch is real easy to get. I do this many times a week. Hook up the chains and cable, and away you go. Of course with a WDH that has to be connected too, and in my limited experience with them, that part takes the most time.

With the 5.0TA and the Anderson Ultimate hitch, I just align the trailer hitch with the rear view mirror, and back up most of the way with the tailgate down. Once close I jump out and close the tailgate and note the distance further to reverse the truck. Jump in and back up that much, and as long as you are inside the cone you are good to go. Maybe one more distance move, something that takes seconds to do. Connect cable and chains and away you go.

With the 5.0TA I had though to use a camera or many of the ideas for aide others use, but in short order I was able to get it done quick enough I abandoned those ideas right away. Who knows, maybe if bored some day, though I have no idea when that will be.

Because both very easy to connect, and take but a couple minutes tops, I would never make a trailer decision based on this factor. Your camping style and trailer layout plays a much larger role in what decision you make as to which trailer to buy. Both are fantastic units.
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Old 07-23-2020, 08:22 AM   #17
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The best tools for hooking up any trailer are patience and a good spotter. My Tundra rear seat headrest is the same width as king pin tongue. I line that up while backing and she calls left, right, stop. If we don’t line up perfect I pull just slightly forward, adjust and try again. Of course even more patience is required on uneven sites.
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Old 07-23-2020, 08:25 AM   #18
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I have bone both and find them about equal, the pros and cons of each pretty much even out. I could see my Andersen Ultimate from the drivers seat until I put a tonneau cover on, now it is blocked. I do like the hitching portion off of the ground and in the bed of the truck. Hitching aside I do like the feel of the solid connection and the towing properties better.
YMMV as Donna says.
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Old 07-23-2020, 09:04 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
.

One advantage of the 5.0 is that the driver may be able to see the hitch and trailer from the driver's seat; that's not possible with a conventional ("bumper pull") trailer, except with a camera.
With our new tonneau cover I can again see the hitch from the cab. I know just how high to leave the trailer so that the kingpin enters the "funnel" shape of my standard fifth wheel hitch which locks automatically. I just have to put in safety pin. If I am straight on to the trailer backing in I don't even have to lift the tailgate. I usually hook up the trailer on my own.

Of course my back up camera is totally useless. I have to turn it off with the tailgate down or it screams at me. I have hooked up to a standard trailer using it though and it's certainly easier when you can see the trailer tongue than it used to be.
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Old 07-23-2020, 09:33 AM   #20
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Thanks, everyone! I'll have to read these two or three times more for the info to sink in. I'll also have to look up some terms and photos related to the fifth wheel, like pin box. And see if I can find videos of TT & 5th wheels hitching.

My only experience is with a travel trailer: A 32' Arctic Fox 30U with a Dodge Ram 3500 Crew Cab Long Bed, connected with a Hensley Hitch. The Hensley was great for towing, hardly knew the TT was there, but a bear to connect; you had to get a square peg into a square hole, and there was not a great deal of tolerance. I had a partner back then, and she was more adept at it than I was. I'll be travelling solo now, and don't want to have too many problems hitching, so I want to make the right choice between the 5.0 5th and the 21C (or 19) TT.

I'll probably have more questions as I explore this further.

Thanks again, everyone.

Harry
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