Why is my tire wear, front to back, uneven?

[bdornbush]

I am preparing to get new tires for my 5 year old trailer, with about 28,000 miles on it. I noticed that on both sides of the trailer, the wear on the rear tires is greater than the wear on the front tires. That is, I can see that there is less tread left on the back tires. I use a weight distribution hitch and when I got the trailer, I took the time to make sure that the distance to the ground from the belly band was the same at the front as the back, within about 1/2" I don't recall whether the front or back was slightly higher, but I do recall that I could not get it exactly the same due to the hitch bolt pattern and that a torsion bar chain link has a certain size. With a WDH, you have to get the trailer level and the tow vehicle, a Jeep Grand Cherokee, also level.

I have had the bearings and brakes serviced every year but I doubt that the company rotated the tires from front to back.

When we travel, we almost always have a full fresh water tank and empty black and gray water tanks, so I expect there is slightly more weight on the rear tires due to this.

My guess is that there is slightly more weight on the rear tires and/or the trailer is tilted slightly toward the rear, causing this slightly uneven tread wear.

I don't think I should just let a link of chain out on the torsion bars because that would also affect the tow vehicle. I could move the hitch height up or down to keep the tow vehicle level while slightly tilting the trailer.

Does this make sense to do? Should I just rotate the trailer tires? Or could there be some other approach I should take?

[PM15283]

You didn't mention which trailer you have, but my 5.0 was meant to carry more weight on the rear axle. I know of no reason to not rotate the tires.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by PM15283

You didn't mention which trailer you have, but my 5.0 was meant to carry more weight on the rear axle. I know of no reason to not rotate the tires.

Reace recommended rotating only front to back and not side to side, on tandem axle trailers.

[Iowa Dave]

1. Your rear tires scuff when they pivot when you are backing up into a camping space. This is extra wear
2. You may have more weight on them.
3 Are you checking the tread depth with a gauge?
4. I’m a believer in tire rotation. Personally I have 5 tires including the spare in circular rotation. We have about 37,000 miles on this set and am at 5 or 6/32 tread depth left. Started with 9/32.
My tires have never aged out. I wear them out.
5. Maximum inflation cold is 65 lbs on our tires. I start the day at 62 lbs in the spring and fall.
I start the day at 60PSI in the summer. I check them about every day. I have an inflator with me so it’s no problem to keep them even.
YMMV
If you’re going to eat popcorn, make it mitey mite hulless popcorn from Shellsburg, Iowa.
Iowa Dave

[bdornbush]

My trailer is a 2015 19 foot Escape as shown in the left column under my photo and other info.

[Rossue]

If they are the original tires then they don't owe you much. We are on our third set of tires. Original Carlisles were marginal after 20K. Went with Maxxis and they were good for not that much more honestly. When the current set of Maxxis need replacement am going to try the Goodyear Endurance. Am staying with Load Range C at 45-50 cold psi- and no rotation.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by PM15283

You didn't mention which trailer you have, but my 5.0 was meant to carry more weight on the rear axle.

What makes you think that? As far as I know, there is nothing in the chassis or suspension design to bias the load toward the trailing axle. The leading and trailing axles use identical Torflex #10 axle/suspension assemblies, and they are mounted identically (the trailing axle isn't set lower, to compress it more, for instance).

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by bdornbush

... I took the time to make sure that the distance to the ground from the belly band was the same at the front as the back, within about 1/2" I don't recall whether the front or back was slightly higher, but I do recall that I could not get it exactly the same due to the hitch bolt pattern and that a torsion bar chain link has a certain size.

That's normal - perfectly level would not be a reasonable expectation. 1/2" over the length of the trailer body is very good.

Originally Posted by bdornbush

With a WDH, you have to get the trailer level and the tow vehicle, a Jeep Grand Cherokee, also level.

Although level is right for the trailer, it may not be for the tow vehicle, and in any case neither must be level just because a WD system is used.

Originally Posted by bdornbush

My guess is that there is slightly more weight on the rear tires and/or the trailer is tilted slightly toward the rear, causing this slightly uneven tread wear.

That's a possibility.

Originally Posted by bdornbush

I don't think I should just let a link of chain out on the torsion bars because that would also affect the tow vehicle. I could move the hitch height up or down to keep the tow vehicle level while slightly tilting the trailer.

I agree that if the axle load is uneven and you want to change that, it is the hitch height (not the spring bars) which should be adjusted.


I would run the rig over a scale to get actual axle loads to see if uneven loading really is an issue.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

1. Your rear tires scuff when they pivot when you are backing up into a camping space. This is extra wear

All of the trailer tires (of a tandem-axle trailer) scuff in any turn. The tires on the trailing axle may scuff more, which may be the issue.

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

4. I’m a believer in tire rotation.

So am I. And in the 21st century, rotating side-to-side (assuming that the tires are non-directional, as they likely are) is fine, too.

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

5. Maximum inflation cold is 65 lbs on our tires. I start the day at 62 lbs in the spring and fall.
I start the day at 60PSI in the summer. I check them about every day. I have an inflator with me so it’s no problem to keep them even.

I assume that what Dave is suggesting here is that uneven inflation may have led to uneven wear. I agree; for instance, the trailer suspension is so stiff that even the slight height difference due to different inflation could cause the more-inflated tires to carry more load (and thus wear more).

[bdornbush]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I assume that what Dave is suggesting here is that uneven inflation may have led to uneven wear. I agree; for instance, the trailer suspension is so stiff that even the slight height difference due to different inflation could cause the more-inflated tires to carry more load (and thus wear more).

I always check the tire pressure cold before every trip. All four are inflated to the maximum for these tires, 50 psi.

[bdornbush]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I would run the rig over a scale to get actual axle loads to see if uneven loading really is an issue.

I have weighed the trailer on scales in truck stops. Can I stop with just one set of tires on the scale and get good measurements, as the tires would be right at the edge of the scale platform?

[Defenestrator]

Dual axle means that one set of tires has to "scrub" a bit in turns, especially sharp ones. The 5.0's pretty nose-heavy, which means generally the back tires will be the ones that scrub. After 28,000 and no rotation, uneven wear wouldn't surprise me at all.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by bdornbush

I have weighed the trailer on scales in truck stops. Can I stop with just one set of tires on the scale and get good measurements, as the tires would be right at the edge of the scale platform?

Yes, it should be fine, since the scales are designed to get separate axle loads for commercial truck and trailer axles which aren't much further separated than the Escape's axles. When I go over scales they seem to come up to the full axle load reading very near to the edge of the scale platform.