Anode Discussion - Page 2

Jim Bennett · 04-07-2016, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CADreamin

Bottom line, it would appear we shouldn't have had the rod replaced, nor should we have agreed to the magnesium rod. I guess it's all a learning curve. (BTW, thanks for moving this to a separate thread. Hopefully, others can be helped by the information collected here.)

As Carl explained, I would go for the magnesium rod too. But you are right that it did not need to be replaced for some time yet. They may be cheap, but I hate to throw things away that are still useful, and put my $15 towards a few beer.

CADreamin · 04-07-2016, 11:09 AM

Thanks Carl and Jim ... your analysis makes me feel better about the magnesium rod replacement at least.

NW Cat Owner · 04-07-2016, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thoer

(Maybe we need to split anode discussion off the wheel bearing thread?)

Quote:

Originally Posted by CADreamin

(BTW, thanks for moving this to a separate thread. Hopefully, others can be helped by the information collected here.)

Yeah, thanks! I wasn't reading the wheel bearing thread any longer, but I've started to read this one. Heck, I didn't even know what an anode is, where it is and what the purpose is. I do now.

MyronL · 04-07-2016, 01:03 PM

We rarely use the hot water heater, but when we do, never leave it on indefinitely. My anode, the original, after 31 months.

California Dreaming · 12-12-2016, 08:09 PM

This is my 2nd year owning a 15' Escape. I live in Sacramento, California where winter temps rarely dip below 36 degrees, and when they do it's typically for less than an hour. That's why I feel fairly confident I don't need to winterize trailer using anti-freeze but I do empty the lines and water tank. Removing the anode the 1st year was easy but this year I can't seem to remove it with my socket wrench. I noticed there's some mild rust and am wondering would there be any issue with spraying anode head with rust remover to see if that would help loosen it? Any other tips on removing stubborn anode rod would be much appreciated.

gbaglo · 12-12-2016, 08:31 PM

Hope you wrapped the threads with plumber tape before re-installing it. Otherwise, you can move just about anything using the lever principal. A piece of pipe over the ratchet can extend the handle and increase leverage.

thoer · 12-12-2016, 08:32 PM

Jen & Angie some rust dissolver shouldn't present any problem as it should not get into the tank itself. When you put the anode (or a new one) back in, be sure to wrap the threads in teflon tape. That helps both to prevent it leaking and makes it easier to remove in the future.

rubicon327 · 12-12-2016, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jen & Angie

Removing the anode the 1st year was easy but this year I can't seem to remove it with my socket wrench. I noticed there's some mild rust and am wondering would there be any issue with spraying anode head with rust remover to see if that would help loosen it? Any other tips on removing stubborn anode rod would be much appreciated.

Use a 6 point socket versus 12 if possible for better engagement with the anode head. Put on the shortest extension that works and use a breaker bar. Some advise against rust remover because of fear of it seeping into the tank but honestly I don't think a couple squirts of BP Blaster on the threads is going to hurt anyone. Other than that you can try an impact wrench. Once you get it out make sure the threads are clean on the water heater and put teflon tape on the new anode before putting it in.

**rbryan4** · 12-12-2016, 08:53 PM

Second the breaker bar. I use a swivel head one about 2 feet long, with a shallow socket. Works easily. Wrap the threads (just the threads) with Teflon tape on the new one before installing. By the way, the breaker bar also makes short work of removing tight lug nuts, and makes adjusting my Anderson Hitch a snap. I wouldn't be without it.

float5 · 12-12-2016, 08:55 PM

Jen and Angie, do you have a breaker bar to put on the anode socket wrench? Think that is what we used. Also Teflon tape. Do not recommend rust remover.

California Dreaming · 12-12-2016, 09:16 PM

Thank you all for the wonderful advice. I did put teflon tape on last winter and will make sure to do so again. I'll buy a breaker bar (sounds like it would come in handy if I need to remove lug nuts anyway) and as a back up plan BP Blaster. The Escape Community rocks. One of the many things I love about purchasing an Escape trailer.

gbaglo · 12-12-2016, 09:27 PM

If your socket is too deep, fill it with coins. I use loonies and toonies because they are handy, but washers would work too.

alanmalk · 12-12-2016, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jen & Angie

... I'll buy a breaker bar (sounds like it would come in handy if I need to remove lug nuts anyway) ...

If you're needing the extra leverage of a breaker bar then be sure to use the correct sized socket - which I believe is 1 & 1/16 inch. (Could be 27mm but I wouldn't trust my memory.) And as someone mentioned previously, a 6 point socket has less of a chance of slipping under hard torque.

--
Alan

MyronL · 12-13-2016, 08:45 AM

My neighbor came over to ask my help in removing a flat tire off her old truck that was rusted on so tight, nothing worked to remove the lugs. Ended up using heat on the lugs with a propane torch. Probably not a better solution than using a breaker bar because of the location. But heat worked, and it was easy.

**Donna D.** · 12-13-2016, 08:48 AM

When you reinstall the anode, just remember it only needs to be tight enough to not leak. Seems simple enough, but I know someone who really reefed on the wrench! It's not a wheel and it won't fall off.

Ron in BC · 12-13-2016, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MyronL

Probably not a better solution than using a breaker bar because of the location. But heat worked, and it was easy.

On the other hand I've seen snapped studs so maybe using the heat was the best way to go.

Ron

escape artist · 12-13-2016, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Donna D.

When you reinstall the anode, just remember it only needs to be tight enough to not leak. Seems simple enough, but I know someone who really reefed on the wrench! It's not a wheel and it won't fall off.

Hi: Donna D... Thanks for the reminder. What I'd like to know... Is there a safe solution to remove the rust from the threads of the water heater? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

MyronL · 12-13-2016, 11:19 AM

Right on Ron. I think heat is the better response here than aerosol nut removers. But if you can't wait to get to harbor freight for a cheap breaker bar, and a propane torch seems risky because of the potential for collateral trailer damage maybe a strong hair dryer on high does it.

Shucks, its only a hot water drain plug. How much rust can there be?

Ron in BC · 12-13-2016, 11:31 AM

I find a quick targeted heat on the side of the nut to be more effective than a lower diffuse heat of a heat gun. I zap it for a few seconds, only to heat the nut. I not worried that the heat is on long enough to reach of damage other items.

Cleaning the threads on the anode fitting; I use a small s/s tooth brush size wire brush. There are some battery terminal cleaner brushes that would also work.

Ron

Patandlinda · 12-13-2016, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I find a quick targeted heat on the side of the nut to be more effective than a lower diffuse heat of a heat gun. I zap it for a few seconds, only to heat the nut. I not worried that the heat is on long enough to reach of damage other items.

Cleaning the threads on the anode fitting; I use a small s/s tooth brush size wire brush. There are some battery terminal cleaner brushes that would also work.

Ron

Great information Ron . Your right about the heat gun , didn't work to get the valve off for water heater .

Pat

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