Originally Posted by Mike G
Regarding winterization with an air compressor, I thought of a couple more questions.
First: on my water pump, is this the "dome" that unscrews, and should I remove it during the winter? Does water linger inside it? Or does the issue pertain only to a newer style pump?
Second: my water heater is emptied and I've reinstalled the anode rod. Is there still a good reason to close the bypass valves before running the air compressor?
TIA. I've obtained a Ridgid 6 gallon compressor, 3.5 scfm @ 40 psi. From what I've read, it should do the job.
I've unscrewed that filter cap and wicked out any remaining water and flushed the filter screen. You could
leave the cap off during shutdown & storage for air drying, or plop it back on. Just be SURE
& make a note in your start-up procedures to replace the domed cap.
I leave the anode out
in storage. I've always stuffed a strip of bath towel into the water heater, using a dowel or other means leaving 6" or so outside to wick out the remaining water in the heater. I leave that in place for a few days, and then use a rubber plug with a faucet filter screen attached to it allow off season drying of the interior of the water heater tank. This plugs the anode opening but allows air in. No picture of this plug device as my rig is away and in storage. The heater is glass lined, so all this is not necessary, but it's what I do. If something is dry, you don't usually experience corrosion.
Your air compressor is adequate, but just blow the lines thoroughly and multiple times. I don't use anti-freeze in them, but do in the sink and shower traps.
I close the bypass to get max pressure through the water lines.