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Old 07-17-2021, 06:43 PM   #1
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Battery troubleshooting

Hi Folks,
My 17b w 2 6v interstate batteries & 160 w solar is showing 12.3 v on the go power. Trailer is connected to ac outlet. Not that long ago, weeks, it was showing 12.8 consistently. Any thoughts on how I should troubleshoot. Batteries are about a year old. Thanks much.
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Old 07-19-2021, 05:04 PM   #2
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I was hoping to get a response to assist me in troubleshooting this battery issue.



The escape is connected to shore power but batteries are showing 12.2 v on go power solar controller. I used voltmeter to check batteries, they are at 6.13 & 6.14 (2 6v in series). I read a past post that said the problem might be the converter going bad? The testing of the converter was a little over my head in the post I read. As previously stated, the batteries are a year old (interstate). Thanks for your thoughts/recommendations. Julie
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Old 07-19-2021, 05:07 PM   #3
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Julie, when was the last time you checked the water levels in the batteries?
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Old 07-19-2021, 05:29 PM   #4
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You should expect to see at least 13.2V when connected to the converter or solar controller, higher if the batteries as low as 12.3V. Both batteries are close enough that a bad cell is unlikely. I'd take Donna's advice & check the water level. If it is OK, check the voltage at the batteries with the solar panel in full sun. It should be 14V+.

Since the solar controller bypasses the battery disconnect switch, I wonder why it is not showing charging voltage even if the battery disconnect switch or converter was bad. It might be worth checking the battery terminals and the thermal circuit breaker between the solar controller & the batteries (if Escape still uses one).

The WFCO converter often does not go into the bulk stage where it should produce 14.4V - 14.6V, but with the batteries at 12.3V it should be showing at least 13.6V+. Since it appears that both the converter and solar controller are not supplying charging voltage to the batteries, I'd check connections, the disconnect switch, etc. I find it hard to believe that both the converter & the solar controller are bad.
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Old 07-19-2021, 07:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Julie, when was the last time you checked the water levels in the batteries?
Hi Donna, I check water frequently. Cleaned the battery terminals today. Maybe I should pull trailer into sun. It’s under car port so no real solar getting to it. But still doesn’t explain not charging on shore power. Thanks for the responses.
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Old 07-19-2021, 07:08 PM   #6
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Jon, have not checked the voltage at the converter yet. Read the instructions but not sure where to access & check w multimeter. Take off back panel?
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Old 07-19-2021, 07:44 PM   #7
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Being under the car port would explain why the solar controller is not charging the batteries.

A easy way to check the converter is to measure the voltage at one of the trailer's 12V receptacles. If it is higher than the battery voltage, it is likely there is a disconnect of some kind between the converter & the batteries. If it is the same, the converter is not working. It could be bad, or it could not be getting power.

I hate to make suggestions that you go poking around in the converter unless you are comfortable troubleshooting 120V AC circuits, but...

To check the converter, open the front panel & loosen the two screws to remove the interior cover. Be careful since you are exposed to the 120V circuit breakers & connections as well as the 12V fuse board. If the converter is connected to the batteries through the disconnect switch & fuse (at the battery) the converter voltage should read the same as the batteries. The two large terminals on the 12V fuse board are the 12V + & - connections.

If you get a higher reading at the converter than at the batteries, you have an open connection between it and the batteries, ie bad fuse, bad disconnect switch, bad connection, etc. There are a pair of 40 amp fuses on the fuse board that are for reverse battery protection. Unless you have changed the batteries it is unlikely they are open, but worth checking. A number of owners have had a failed disconnect switch.

If the voltage at the converter is the same as at the batteries, you need to be sure it is getting 120V AC to the input. A bad breaker, connection at the breaker or neutral could be the problem.

Again, I caution you to be careful of the 120V connections. You need power to the converter in order to check it, so it can't be done with it unplugged, although I'd definitely disconnect the trailer power cord when checking the tightness of the breaker & neutral screws..
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Old 07-19-2021, 07:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mucram View Post
Jon, have not checked the voltage at the converter yet. Read the instructions but not sure where to access & check w multimeter. Take off back panel?
Take the front panel off the WFCO power center (two screws under door flap) and you’ll see the DC board on the right side. If you put your red probe on +VCC and your black probe on NEG- that will tell you what your converter/charger is doing.
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Old 07-26-2021, 09:31 AM   #9
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Dave, Jon, & Donna:
Thanks for your replies. Haven't dug into the converter yet but did move trailer into sun & batteries charged full. I will check voltage at the outlets today. Again, appreciate your advice.
Julie
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Old 08-09-2021, 07:33 PM   #10
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Final conclusion. Had mobile rv tech here today that determined converter doa. New converter & voltage back up where it should be. An expensive day. Thanks all.
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