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01-05-2019, 10:44 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Port Townsend, Washington
Trailer: 2010 17B “MATT”, then 2017 19 “Lilly”
Posts: 1,584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
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What is the restriction of the Camco blowout plug, and which one do you refer to, this one
Or this one
Both are Camco.
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💩-p+☕️+n
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01-05-2019, 11:35 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sclifrickson
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Referring to this one. Why the huge restriction at the tip? I want the most flow I can get.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-C.../dp/B002XL2IEA
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01-05-2019, 11:38 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Maple Ridge, BC, British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 17B;2012 Nissan Frontier SV 4
Posts: 701
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http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/at...5&d=1546706585
I have this one (or something similar). I’ve seen a plastic plug which I sometimes wonder if it would be better since I’m screwing the plug into plastic on the Escape and don’t want the brass threads to wreck the plastic intake
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01-05-2019, 11:47 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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Similar except I used a plastic hose cap from my drip irrigation spares and added a shutoff as the trailer is pretty far off from the compressor/regulator.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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01-05-2019, 11:48 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Port Townsend, Washington
Trailer: 2010 17B “MATT”, then 2017 19 “Lilly”
Posts: 1,584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
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Ah, I thought you meant there was some restriction on the plug’s usability, not physical restriction of the air channel. I’ll have to look at mine closer next time I use it. Maybe it can be drilled out a bit?
__________________
💩-p+☕️+n
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01-05-2019, 11:51 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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I've drilled them out before with no ill effects, no idea why the restriction is there.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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01-05-2019, 12:15 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
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Question on the air winterizing for u’se guys. One of the weak spots is the toilet flush valve, how do you handle that? I’m assuming you depress the flush valve while compressor is running, but never winterized yet.
Any other spots that require special attention?
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01-05-2019, 12:38 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Janesville, WI, Wisconsin
Trailer: Escape 19 (sold) Escape 21 2014
Posts: 1,879
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The white plastic version of the Camco plug has a cross hatch grid inside the opening. Same type of restriction. I drilled it out and now cannot use the tire inflater adapter (schrader type). The cross hatching is what depresses the air release inside the inflater.
Fortunately, another trigger type adapter I have works quite well. For the one or two uses per year it was not worth much time on my part. For others it may get used more frequently.
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01-05-2019, 01:10 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Trailer: 2018 5.0TA / 2018 GMC Canyon/Duramax
Posts: 561
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This is what I use and like having the shut off handle at the trailer connection.
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01-05-2019, 01:17 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Port Townsend, Washington
Trailer: 2010 17B “MATT”, then 2017 19 “Lilly”
Posts: 1,584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A
Question on the air winterizing for u’se guys. One of the weak spots is the toilet flush valve, how do you handle that? I’m assuming you depress the flush valve while compressor is running, but never winterized yet.
Any other spots that require special attention?
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Be sure to either use your normal pressure regulator, or adjust compressor pressure if adjustable, to avoid overpressure damage to your water lines.
__________________
💩-p+☕️+n
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01-05-2019, 02:57 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryandLiz
I’ve seen a plastic plug which I sometimes wonder if it would be better since I’m screwing the plug into plastic on the Escape and don’t want the brass threads to wreck the plastic intake
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Valid point. Older trailers like ours have a metal city water connection. This is behind a lockable door. When Escape made the change to the newer style city water connector it went to plastic.
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01-05-2019, 09:04 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A
Question on the air winterizing for u’se guys. One of the weak spots is the toilet flush valve, how do you handle that? I’m assuming you depress the flush valve while compressor is running, but never winterized yet.
Any other spots that require special attention?
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Greg: At 41:53 in the Escape Orientation video he shows how it is done when using compressed air. Just as you describe.
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01-06-2019, 07:50 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A
Question on the air winterizing for u’se guys. One of the weak spots is the toilet flush valve, how do you handle that? I’m assuming you depress the flush valve while compressor is running, but never winterized yet.
Any other spots that require special attention?
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The issue with the toilet valve was when Escape was using the low point drain, that this valve did not clear using gravitational flow. No problem with either air or antifreeze.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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01-06-2019, 08:42 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
The issue with the toilet valve was when Escape was using the low point drain, that this valve did not clear using gravitational flow. No problem with either air or antifreeze.
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Yes thanks Jim for the clarification.
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01-06-2019, 11:08 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
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Thanks, Dave and Jim info helps a non-winterizer a lot. I'll have to start winterizing some in about two years, so never to early to start learning the ins and outs.
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01-06-2019, 12:34 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Fremont, California
Trailer: 2016 21. '15 Ford Explorer V-6
Posts: 1,558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A
Thanks, Dave and Jim info helps a non-winterizer a lot. I'll have to start winterizing some in about two years, so never to early to start learning the ins and outs.
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Greg, you’ll never need to winterize at 70*
__________________
Steve and Debbie
2016 - 21'
“Get out the map and lay your finger anywhere down” -Indigo Girls
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01-08-2019, 08:48 AM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Auburn, California
Trailer: Was 2011 17B, now Bigfoot 21
Posts: 61
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I'm going to winterize for the first time (moving to colder climate) and am a little confused with one of the steps in the Escape video; why do you by-pass the hot water tank if you drain all the water out of the system? It seems like you can just leave the valves open and blow out all the lines (after you drained the hot water tank) and you should be good. I'm a little nervous that I would turn on the tank without water since it was by-passed. I know you can tag the switch but the tag can fall off/get removed by mistake.
Ben
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01-08-2019, 09:02 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Trailer: 2018 5.0TA / 2018 GMC Canyon/Duramax
Posts: 561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btroxell
I'm going to winterize for the first time (moving to colder climate) and am a little confused with one of the steps in the Escape video; why do you by-pass the hot water tank if you drain all the water out of the system? It seems like you can just leave the valves open and blow out all the lines (after you drained the hot water tank) and you should be good. I'm a little nervous that I would turn on the tank without water since it was by-passed. I know you can tag the switch but the tag can fall off/get removed by mistake.
Ben
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When storing the trailer you will want to drain the water heater as leaving it full during storage will accelerate aging process. By passing the water heater keeps from filling the water heater with RV antifreeze. If using only air to winterize and you do not by pass the water heater the air will just flow out the water heater drain unless you reinstall the anode rod and then you will pressurize the water heater. Always good to store the RV with the Water Heater empty and the anode rod removed.
Also, always good to flush the water heater with flush wand.
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01-08-2019, 10:34 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btroxell
I'm going to winterize for the first time (moving to colder climate) and am a little confused with one of the steps in the Escape video; why do you by-pass the hot water tank if you drain all the water out of the system? It seems like you can just leave the valves open and blow out all the lines (after you drained the hot water tank) and you should be good. I'm a little nervous that I would turn on the tank without water since it was by-passed. I know you can tag the switch but the tag can fall off/get removed by mistake.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent
If using only air to winterize and you do not by pass the water heater the air will just flow out the water heater drain unless you reinstall the anode rod and then you will pressurize the water heater. Always good to store the RV with the Water Heater empty and the anode rod removed.
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If you have the anode out and the bypass is not engaged then you will be blowing a lot of your air out of the water heater instead of your faucets. Depending on the size of your compressor this could be an issue. I recently did a motorhome with the drain valve removed and I didn't have good pressure at the faucets until I bypassed the water heater. After you are done winterizing with compressed air there is nothing keeping you from flipping the water heater bypass valves back to the normal position to be ready for Spring. Personally I don't see a problem with keeping the anode in an empty tank.
(The only concern with the anode is with corrosion from antifreeze in which case you either bypass the hot water heater or in the case of not having bypass fill the hot water heater (6 gallons!) and replace the anode with a plug. This is why compressed air is used or antifreeze with a hot water heater bypass.)
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