Can I use a non-silicon sealant to replace silicon caulking

[iguthrie]

I have a 2006 17B Escape. I think the previous owner used silicon caulking to seal the top edge of the awning, where the painted metal strip meets the fiberglass roof. The sealant needs to be replaced. My questions are: 1) Can I use Dicor's Self-leveling Lap Sealant after I remove the silicon sealant, 2), Or any other non-silicon caulking, and 3) What steps do I have to take to ensure good adhesion of the non-silicon caulking and/or Self-leveling Lap Sealant? Thanks.

[Iowa Dave]

Getting the old silicone off is the first and biggest problem. On seams, strips, etc I use Proflex caulk after cleaning the surface with alcohol down to the gel coat. For very small spots and touch ups I like Lexel in a tube. I’ve not used Dicor so cant comment.
Iowa Dave

[iguthrie]

Thank you, Dave. I'm relieved to hear that I may be able to clean off the silicon and apply a different caulking. That would make future maintenance much easier.
Ian

[Iowa Dave]

I had to replace the shore power cord cover on our 19. It had a bead of silicone around it. I carefully used a plastic chisel with a sharp egde to slowly remove the bead. I got the set of 4 from Harbor Freight for like 10 bucks. The cover was stuck pretty tight but I got it off taking my time. I drilled out the pop rivets finished cleaning the surface up, used butyl tape under the new cover, then pop riveted the cover down and put a bead of Proflex around the outside.
Iowa Dave

[cpaharley2008]

The Dicor self leveling sealant is a nice product, used on horizontal surfaces such as the awning t-rail. I have used it around the solar mounting tabs.

[Doug2000]

My RV dealer told me to use LePage Quad.

[iguthrie]

Thanks all for your suggestions. Here is the tale of how it worked out.

After receiving your comments I went to the local RV service department and also asked their advice. They suggested leaving the silicon where it was, thoroughly cleaning off the area, then applying a lap sealant overtop with enough width the get a good grip on both sides of the silicon. They didn’t have the Dicor Self-leveling Lap Sealant in stock, but they had the Dicor Non-leveling Lap Sealant and said the technicians preferred it since it gave them more control over how the sealant was applied and shaped.

I was initially planning to follow that advice, but when I went to clean off the area with Varsol the silicon started to lift off at the edges, so I went all in and removed all the silicon. I used an old toothbrush to wet down the old silicon caulking with a solvent (reapplying as necessary), alternating between Varsol and 99% Isopropyl alcohol, and used a plastic razor blade as a scraper. I was surprised to find the more flexible orange blades worked better than the harder but brittle yellow blades, which kept breaking with just moderate pressure. It took some elbow grease, fortunately less than I feared, but I eventually got all the silicon off.

Once the silicon was was removed I gave the area along the T-strip a good final cleaning with Varsol, isopropyl and, following the advice of the RV service rep, white gas. That probably falls in the ‘overkill’ department, but I wanted to make sure any silicon residue was removed.

Finally, I applied a bead of the Dicor Non-leveling Lap Sealant where it needed to go and used a metal scraper to tool and shape the sealant. Varsol was helpful to occasionally clean off the blade.

Despite all forecasts to the opposite, it began to rain just as I was finishing and subsequently rained for a few hours. With water now pooling up against the fresh sealant, I was concerned that water might seep underneath and ruin the seal. When I inspected the sealant after a couple days of dry weather, however, I did not detect any areas where it released. Still, the sealant is still malleable and it will take a while to fully cure, so the jury is not completely in. I’ll post an epilogue if the eventual results are anything other than what they seem today.
Ian

[Iowa Dave]

And now because you took time to learn and took time doing the job you went from perplexed
rookie to seasoned veteran. Congrats on your repair. You’ll not
Be intimidated on that front again. Sometimes experience is truly the best teacher.
Iowa Dave

[Ops]

I contacted ETI regarding the sealant they used on the builds. The reply was clear and simple...

"The sealant that we use is ProFlex it comes in either clear or white."

Ordered it on Amazon.ca and frankly, it is truly wonderful stuff. Easy to clean off, easy to use, and easy to complete whatever you're doing. Impressed.

Clean up...alcohol for the old stuff...alcohol for the new with a final wipe with acetone.

[steve dunham]

Two good things about Lexel vs silicone and most caulks is that you can go over dry Lexel with Lexel because it will adhere to itself and it can be applied to a damp surface . Plus it is widely available - no need to order on the internet
I carry a small tube of clear in my truck

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by Ops

I contacted ETI regarding the sealant they used on the builds. The reply was clear and simple...

"The sealant that we use is ProFlex it comes in either clear or white."

Ordered it on Amazon.ca and frankly, it is truly wonderful stuff. Easy to clean off, easy to use, and easy to complete whatever you're doing. Impressed.

Clean up...alcohol for the old stuff...alcohol for the new with a final wipe with acetone.

When you get done using the Proflex, regardless of the way you try to seal the end of the tube, the air inside the tube will continue to cure the remaining product in the tube. After getting only one season out of 3 tubes before it was unusable the next spring I learned this.
When you’re done with your project, put the tube in a food saver bag and seal it up. Make sure your bag is a somewhat bigger than what you need when you seal it up. When you need to use Proflex again carefully cut the bag open just below the seal. Then do your job and return the tube to the bag and seal it up again. I am on my third year with a tube and it still feed out of the tube and seals well. The second use of the bag is not absolutely necessary but if you do this you will qualify for a Bohemie of the year participation award. I learned this technique from a very wise brewmaster from Wisconsin.

We also carry a tube of Lexel clear and Lexel white and like that product also. Small, fine caulk repairs are easily accomplished with this product. I would recommend buying your Lexel at a store that does a hearty volume of business. If you get a tube that has been on the shelf for some time, the product can be stiff to squeeze out of the tube.
Iowa Dave

[padlin]

you're talking a vacuum sealer, right?

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by padlin

you're talking a vacuum sealer, right?

That’s right Bob, a regular food saver. It vacuum seals the bag with a heat strip.
We buy the “ roll “ not the individual bags. Price per use is about the same but the roll gives you a little more flexibility in product dimensions. Here’s a picture in action.
Iowa Dave

[cpaharley2008]

negative pressure inside, great idea........

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

negative pressure inside, great idea........

So is this a CPA certified “SEAL” of approval? Hope you’re having a good weekend Jim. Thinking of you
Iowa Dave