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Old 06-13-2016, 08:53 AM   #21
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Thumbs up for Trailer Aid. Worked like a charm with my previous "sticky". Fortunately, have not had to use it with the 21' yet. Bet it works as well, though.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:18 AM   #22
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Keeping in mind the suspension being springs on my 5.0TA, the trailer aid I borrowed from my neighbor would not get the "bad" tire off the ground. Didn't measure how thick it was though, may differ from the current model and his was a pretty old aluminum job.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:22 AM   #23
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Quote:
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Keeping in mind the suspension being springs on my 5.0TA, the trailer aid I borrowed from my neighbor would not get the "bad" tire off the ground. Didn't measure how thick it was though, may differ from the current model and his was a pretty old aluminum job.
You need the trailer aid plus. It lifts the wheel off the ground 5.5". The regular trailer aid is 4.5"

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-P...ds=trailer+aid
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:33 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Scuba55 View Post
You need the trailer aid plus. It lifts the wheel off the ground 5.5". The regular trailer aid is 4.5"

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-P...ds=trailer+aid
That looks like it'd do it. Too bulky for me though, plus I already own a jack.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:34 AM   #25
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Does the Escape 21 need the regular or plus size Trailer Aid?
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:46 AM   #26
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Standard one works fine and fits in front box. Have used it several times to level side-to-side when needing extra height.. When doing so we place the regular slant ramp a few inches forward on the leading tire.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:42 AM   #27
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Standard one works fine and fits in front box. Have used it several times to level side-to-side when needing extra height.. When doing so we place the regular slant ramp a few inches forward on the leading tire.
Thanks Ross. By regular slant ramp do mean one like the this Camco ? Used in conjunction with the Trailer Aid?
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:45 AM   #28
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Go with the Trailer Aid Plus. Uneven ground may keep the regular Trailer Aid from getting the wheel off the ground. Little difference in size, weight and cost, but gives you a bit more lift. On flat pavement the regular is probably OK. But out in the Boonies at the side of the road, who knows?
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:49 AM   #29
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Does the Trailer Aid Plus fit well in the front storage box?
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:21 AM   #30
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I had the regular trailer aid and it fits inside the front storage box on my 21'. It was put to use on a parking lot last year due to a flat. No problem on a parking lot, so it does work and it does fit.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:36 PM   #31
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Carry a piece of pipe, 30" long, that can slip over the lug wrench for leverage. If you can't loosen the lug nuts a jack isn't of much use. A 12"x12" piece of plywood is good to have as a firm base for the jack or jack stand when pulling over onto a soft or uneven shoulder. Do a dry run at home to make sure the jack has enough lift. When hooking up the trailer check the emergency flashers.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:46 PM   #32
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Same piece of pipe can be used to remove any barrel locks on the trailer or tow vehicle for which keys have been lost/misplaced
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:06 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viajante View Post
Carry a piece of pipe, 30" long, that can slip over the lug wrench for leverage.

Or, a 2 foot breaker bar with a swivel and a socket that works on the lugs. Carry a torque wrench for putting them back on.


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Old 06-13-2016, 08:58 PM   #34
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Carry a piece of pipe, 30" long, that can slip over the lug wrench for leverage.
People using snipes - or anything else not intended as a tool but with great force applied to it - always make me a little nervous. I like this better:
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Or, a 2 foot breaker bar with a swivel and a socket that works on the lugs. Carry a torque wrench for putting them back on.
And the same socket works with both the bar and the torque wrench. Once loosened with the bar, the torque wrench can be used as a ratchet if desired. The flex handle (breaker bar) and socket is my solution... even without the torque wrench.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:19 PM   #35
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Torque wrench

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Or, a 2 foot breaker bar with a swivel and a socket that works on the lugs. Carry a torque wrench for putting them back on.


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Torque wrench? I don't need no stinking torque wrench, says the champion of the upcoming Mississippi River Rally Torque Yer Nutz contest.
Seriously, the torque wrench as long as it's reasonably in calibration should always be used on the reinstall and checked the first time you stop afterwards. Right Eric ? In my not so humble opinion. Why lie?
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:34 PM   #36
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Torque wrench? I don't need no stinking torque wrench, says the champion of the upcoming Mississippi River Rally Torque Yer Nutz contest.
Seriously, the torque wrench as long as it's reasonably in calibration should always be used on the reinstall and checked the first time you stop afterwards. Right Eric ? In my not so humble opinion. Why lie?
Dave
Get that contest rig built yet? A lot of lugs nuts in my garage seemed to need to be checked frequently lately.....
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:59 PM   #37
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Hey It's been hot and I have been busy driving 6000 miles in three weeks and partying down three nights in a row with 335 of my closest friends at my 50 th high school reunion. I am collecting the components and also showed Loren the centerpiece of the trophy. Top Secret.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:31 PM   #38
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Torque Yer Nutz contest.
Torque, you're nuts! You already have that contest won, hand's down.
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Old 06-14-2016, 12:58 AM   #39
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If you have a 19/21/5.0, then you should think about a Rapid Jack from Andersen Hitches
We carry one and I have "tested" it at home but have yet to be as unfortunate to do a road test


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Old 06-14-2016, 05:34 AM   #40
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Have that too David. Haven't had a flat, but like you, I've tested it and there's ample clearance. Only issue I've had is it's a little large for the tongue box, so I store ours under the bed via the side hatch.


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