First time owner may have to winterize while on the road seeks advice

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by luckyone

I just winterized my trailer using a bike pump and the optional t-valve for the RV antifreeze. I did notice not all water is drained from the hot water tank. Should I funnel some antifreeze into it or leave alone?

I agree that a little water is not likely to be problem. Also, I wouldn't consider putting any antifreeze in the water heater, because it would be very difficult to flush out, for the same reason that it doesn't drain completely.

[luckyone]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

It will be okay with a little, if full and it freezes then it can burst, but with just a little, any freezing liquid should do no harm.

Thanks for that. I pulled the anode but there still seems a residual amount left. Also, for you first timers remember to pull the pressure relief valve first before removing the anode. That thing will nock your teeth out when unscrewed under pressure!

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

The one in the picture has a cap on the branch and that's where you add the hose that goes to the antifreeze jug.

Flair-It RV Water Line 3 Way Valve, All are 1/2" pex. | eBay

Tom, I've found the correct Flair-It locally, but they didn't have a cap for the one branch. What did you use and where did you find it?

[padlin]

Donna, If I'm following the thread correctly... The jug side of the T ETI installed in mine just has an open hose end that goes into the jug. ETI gave me about 4 feet of hose that's coiled up as much as you can coil it. I can take a pic tomorrow if it'll help.

On 2nd thought, this is the valve and hose.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by padlin

Donna, If I'm following the thread correctly... The jug side of the T ETI installed in mine just has an open hose end that goes into the jug. ETI gave me about 4 feet of hose that's coiled up as much as you can coil it. I can take a pic tomorrow if it'll help.

On 2nd thought, this is the valve and hose.

So you never pull (unscrew) the hose and put a cap on the T fitting? What prevents water from coming out the hose when hooked up to a water supply. I think I'm confusing myself....

And I really should have thought about this in September instead of 3 days before it's going to start freezing...

[cpaharley2008]

When you turn the valve bypass it allows the pump to pump the tank, in the picture it is pumping the water in the tank, it it were turned parallel to the tube it will pump what ever the tube is inserted into.

[cpaharley2008]

This e-z- winterizing option is well worth the minimal cost, you can do it yourself in under 5 minutes.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

All that is needed is to cut the vinyl hose before the water pump and install one of these 3 way valves. They are compression nuts and very easy to install. Add a piece of 1/2" vinyl hose to the branch side of the valve long enough to reach a gallon jug of antifreeze. Total job is about 10 minutes.

The one in the picture has a cap on the branch and that's where you add the hose that goes to the antifreeze jug.

That's nicely set up. I had not seen Flair-It caps (item 16860) before, but I see online that they are a routine part of the system (worth about three bucks... if the store has them). The cap isn't needed, but seems to me like a good idea to keep dirt out of the valve, and using the Flair-It compression fittings makes the cap available.

Originally Posted by padlin

... The jug side of the T ETI installed in mine just has an open hose end that goes into the jug. ETI gave me about 4 feet of hose that's coiled up as much as you can coil it.

That works fine, too. It's what I have in two RVs, both as OEM installations. It's the logical thing to do when using crimped PEX connections.

With the valve turned to the normal position the open hose isn't connected to anything, so there's no leakage issue. It just seems tidier and cleaner to take the hose off and put it away, perhaps in a plastic bag (since it will be wet with antifreeze after the first use).

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by luckyone

Also, for you first timers remember to pull the pressure relief valve first before removing the anode. That thing will nock your teeth out when unscrewed under pressure!

Guess who found out the hard way that the hot water tank can hold pressure for many months?

When I walked in the door covered with tank sediment from head to toe Susannah pointed me in the direction of the shower and said "Don't come back until you're clean..."

I won't forget next time!

--
Alan

[padlin]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

So you never pull (unscrew) the hose and put a cap on the T fitting? What prevents water from coming out the hose when hooked up to a water supply. I think I'm confusing myself....

And I really should have thought about this in September instead of 3 days before it's going to start freezing...

The valve only lets water pass to the pump from either the fresh tank or the jug, although I don't know what would happen if you only turn it half way. Works just fine the way it is, no need to disconnect anything.

[Donna D.]

Okay, this is starting to make more sense. Thanks Brian for the info on the cap. I'll see if the RV parts place that has the Flair-It, also has the cap. If not, maybe I'll just buy a longer piece of 1/2 hose and loop it as in the picture Bob provided. But I'm still going to buy a cap!

[Kountrykamper]

I just put the cap on it because I am OCD. Nothing wrong with leaving the hose on it all the time and just coiling it up.

[richardr]

We plan to live in the trailer full time, (so the inside will be warm) and get the foam insulation option. However I'm concerned about the shower drain trap freezing. Is this concern valid? If so, would pouring a cup of pink stuff in the shower drain solve the problem?

[cpaharley2008]

If you are living in the trailer then you will be using the shower? If so I'd suggest the foam package to protect it and you may want to pour some antifreeze into the drain if below freezing and not being used.

[StarvingHyena]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Okay, this is starting to make more sense. Thanks Brian for the info on the cap. I'll see if the RV parts place that has the Flair-It, also has the cap. If not, maybe I'll just buy a longer piece of 1/2 hose and loop it as in the picture Bob provided. But I'm still going to buy a cap!

Hi Donna D,
I think you are on track getting a long enough hose.... but if you can't find a cap, I'll bet a hardware store cork could be found to keep out the dirt and the few antifreeze drippings.

Tom

[cpaharley2008]

I use a wooden peg from a coat tree in the pump hose and a large cork installed in the water heater when I remove the sacrificial rod for the winter.

[gbaglo]

I put the anode back in the water heater after draining. That way, I know where it is.

[cpaharley2008]

Mine is in my garage in plain view, right next to the refer which has my beer, so I see it everyday...

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by StarvingHyena

Hi Donna D,
I think you are on track getting a long enough hose.... but if you can't find a cap, I'll bet a hardware store cork could be found to keep out the dirt and the few antifreeze drippings.

Tom

Too late for this year! I just went ahead and used a hand pump at the city water connection. Only took about 45 minutes, running back and forth in and out of the trailer to make certain everything was turning pink. One of those issues when doing something solo. The last several years, I've picked up Ten Forward from the storage yard, brought the trailer home and blew out the lines with my 3 gallon compressor. I just didn't want to deal with that this year.

But, I think I WILL be getting a Flair-It for next year!

[cpaharley2008]

You will need 2, one for the Escape and your other fg unit.