Front Box Coating

[Rossue]

Want to re-coat my front storage box when I replace the hinges. Will probably remove it first. I contacted Escape and was told they use Grizzly Grip, a roll-on truck bed liner. The color is Snow White and I confirmed that with the mfg. The texture would be the coarse vs. fine. As far as prep the mfg. told me to rub the surface with acetone first. will wash it good with Dawn first.

The smallest quantity is a pint for $15; a quart is $26. Coverage is 5-8 sq. ft. for 2 coats for pint. Probably will get the quart- better to have too much than too little.

https://www.grizzlygrip.com/products

[jadams]

This is good information for the upkeep of my front box in the future. Detailing my trailer this weekend I thought to myself the box will need some TLC in the future. Thank you.

The hinges on my box have some corrosion I'm not happy with. Have you discovered a more weather resistant hinge you plan to install?

[Rossue]

Charlie(tractors) posted with a vendor for powder coated replacement latches. I tried carefully using some rust remover on my latches and it made them worse, and some small amount stained the box as well.

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...hes-10925.html

[Ron in BC]

Guess I didn't read the ad well enough, I didn't see that you could order the smaller sizes. Well for that price I'll probably do my rear cargo box at some point.

I'll be interested to see how the "white" looks on your box and if it has what I think is an almond tint.

Ron

[Rossue]

Will post pics; I suspect the Snow White is correct and it just fades some over time. Definitely not Almond.

[Rossue]

Got the box re-coated this week; came out great. Would advise reading their website instructions & FAQ's along with those that are sent. Here are the main points-

1. Wash with TSP, then lightly sand with 220 then wipe down with solvent: MEK or acetone.
2. Use a metal paint tray as the product will melt a plastic tray. Can pour it directly on surface, yet thought pan was better to keep first coat thin as directed. Would order two rollers: the 9" was pretty perfect size. Need two as the first one starts to melt while waiting for 1st coat to dry. I used it, however had to pull a couple strands out of the surface. Had put it in a heavy plastic bag and in fridge(as they suggested to slow the chemical reaction). Theirs is a plastic loop and fairly priced- 9" for $6. Amazon sells a 4" for $8.
3. First coat thin- it is so thick it is not easy to spread out if blobbed on to begin with. Second coat thick, so pour less than half out for first coat.
4. This product is an "aliphatic moisture cure urethane" that cures best with humidity.
5. Quart was a perfect size-get Coarse- used it all without needing more. With two rollers and S&H($27 UPS Ground) you will pay about $65.

[Ron in BC]

Nice job, I'm impressed, I know there's a learning curve handling that stuff.

Thanks for paving the way.

If I decide to coat my rear cargo box I'll definitely go with the coarse.

OK, not almond, well, maybe a hint of almond.

Ron

[Rossue]

Thanks- I started to wonder too when I looked at the color swatch at their website. Definitely lighter than my almond vinyl windows, and looking at the backside where I didn't cover completely over the original it did look different. Dionne answered today saying the gelcoat was a different color, yet the Grizz was white.

[Ron in BC]

Yah, what do I know about color, I struggle what what shade of beige to paint rooms.

Based on your results and that you can buy the smaller quantity of GG I'd like to do my cargo carrier.

Only problem is that my wife views the nice smooth doors as the ideal place to put those stick on maps that show all the states and provinces you've visited.

Textured GG and stick on maps don't mix. Don't know how it's going to go.

Ron

[dmc94572]

Anyone need to patch a hole in the fiberglass prior to repaint?

[HABBERDABBER]

I've used Marine-Tex, a 2-part white epoxy on some boats and a 20 year old Casita. If it is a smallish area, roughing and tapering surfaces, cleaning, an alcohol wipe and a dollop of Marine-Tex covered with clear packing tape to smooth things out would work. Leave the repair surface "proud" (above the surrounding surface) and lightly sand with 220/320/400 grit wet/dry paper and water. You can keep sanding with 600, 1,000 grit.
If your damage is structural, with chunks missing, cracks, etc.....well that's a bigger project and different techniques.
Got a picture of your damage? That would help in responding.

[dmc94572]

I ordered the Grizzly Grip old school style, via phone. Took a moment for them to agree to sell to an individual as they are mostly to the trade. She was wonderful in aiding me to get the correct color, texture, and related supplies. Now how to fix the hole of my creation

[dmc94572]

Yes let me try to attach. Thanks!

[dmc94572]

Yes let me try to attach. Thanks! It is to the left side.

[dmc94572]

Is the lid a different paint?

[HABBERDABBER]

You'd need to pop out the intruded box surface, roughen up the interior surface, use epoxy and fiberglass mat to set it back in place and hold it. Then you could Marine-Tex exterior surfaces and paint.

Or take it to a boat shop/fiberglass repair or knowledgeable auto body shop for the repair.

[Ron in BC]

Hate to be negative but I don't advocate using epoxy unless there's a structural reason to do so. Polyester resin is perfectly adequate for this situation.

Anytime that you use epoxy resin on a f.g. repair you've burned a bridge. Polyester to polyester works well and if you ever have to do a repair again polyester will adhere to the previous polyester. Once you put epoxy on f.g. it will bond well but if you ever have to do another repair your ability to use polyester is gone. It won't stick to the epoxy. That includes a flood coat of gelcoat over the repair to make an invisible matching repair.

I've done massive amounts of f.g. repairs. Much better to keep it all polyester. There's no reason not to.

Ron

[dmc94572]

Great and impressive input even for a gear head and wanna B remodeler. Given where I live in a retirement compound, I will attempt a boat repair shop.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Hate to be negative but I don't advocate using epoxy unless there's a structural reason to do so. Polyester resin is perfectly adequate for this situation.

Anytime that you use epoxy resin on a f.g. repair you've burned a bridge. Polyester to polyester works well and if you ever have to do a repair again polyester will adhere to the previous polyester. Once you put epoxy on f.g. it will bond well but if you ever have to do another repair your ability to use polyester is gone. It won't stick to the epoxy. That includes a flood coat of gelcoat over the repair to make an invisible matching repair.

I've done massive amounts of f.g. repairs. Much better to keep it all polyester. There's no reason not to.

Ron

I agree. Both resins work well, but there can be solid reasons for one over the others use. Polyester resin would be fine and maybe better. I've worked with it long ago, but have used epoxy much more over the years and go to it out of habit.

[Dcboyd]

Personally, the rough texture reminds me of the old popcorn ceiling texture. Ugly, when the time comes I may just tint some white flex seal coating and roll it on the exterior for several protective coats, after sanding off the majority of the rough texture. Existing texture does nothing for protection and is a great collector of bugs and road debris making cleaning difficult.