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Old 03-12-2019, 06:32 PM   #1
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New full timer looking for resources.

Hi guys Iím now full timing in my 2014 5.0 TA. Iím trying to get a plan of attack as far as preventative maintenance goes and would love some help prioritizing my list / generally need some wisdom. Heading to New England for next 3 months and then the high desert after that. Hereís what Iíve identified as things to put on the to do list:

1. Wash and wax
2. Reseal all seals - would love some advice on this would like to move from back to front doing a few at a time. Trailer is now almost 5 yrs old and some seals are looking like they are getting tired.
3. Rust mitigation - again would like some tips / wisdom here- trailer spent a couple years in the north east some rust underneath how do those who live up north deal with this over time? Also I have spray foam underneath.
4. Bearing greasing and maintenance - hopefully get this done before next big trip (end of April)
What should I add to this list?
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:00 PM   #2
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It sounds like you have a pretty good plan. I have not tried this yet but it is on my short list. ďPOR-15 for touching up frame paint. For touch up it is not necessary to go through all the steps, just remove most surface rust.Ē I am quoting another member of this forum.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:15 PM   #3
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Thanks will look into that paint
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:16 PM   #4
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4. Bearing greasing and maintenance - hopefully get this done before next big trip (end of April)
Good - as long as you understand that this means disassembling the hub and bearings (not just pumping grease into an EZ-Lube fitting), so that the brakes and the bearings themselves can be inspected, then when it is re-assembled the bearings are installed and adjusted properly. If it's not done properly, there's no point in doing anything other than checking for excessive bearing play (which just means jacking the trailer to raise each wheel off the ground and pushing and pulling sideways on the top and bottom of the tire to see if it rocks too much).
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:24 PM   #5
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If you still have the original tires, inspect them for overall condition and inflation. Tires age out as well as wear out.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:24 PM   #6
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Battery test...
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:31 PM   #7
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If you still have the original tires, inspect them for overall condition and inflation. Tires age out as well as wear out.
Forgot to mention tires are brand new
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:31 PM   #8
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Battery test...
Just replaced original interstate 6vs with 2x 6v lifeline AGMs!
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:35 PM   #9
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Good - as long as you understand that this means disassembling the hub and bearings (not just pumping grease into an EZ-Lube fitting), so that the brakes and the bearings themselves can be inspected, then when it is re-assembled the bearings are installed and adjusted properly. If it's not done properly, there's no point in doing anything other than checking for excessive bearing play (which just means jacking the trailer to raise each wheel off the ground and pushing and pulling sideways on the top and bottom of the tire to see if it rocks too much).
Thanks will start with what you suggested and if I get the bearings serviced it will be done professionally
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:12 PM   #10
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On my 2014 I used Por15 on all of the frame I could get to including the pin box. The step just keeps getting rust on it, even with the por15. I went thru all the steps, including using their top coat. Tip, get the 6 pack of small cans of the rust preventative coat. Once you close a can you destroy it reopening it. So they are 2 use then toss.

I had to reseal the rooftop caulk this past spring, had one of the holding tank vent caulk jobs leak last winter. Have also redone the Proflex on all the upper rear brake/signal lights, if you have them, you'll see where it pulled away on top of the lights. These lights were an option in 2014.

I had my car mechanic do the bearings and adj the brakes.

Going to take a look at the brakes this spring, if they are a rusted mess I'll replace the whole assm.

Replaced the tires at about 30k before a long trip.
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:51 PM   #11
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On my 2014 I used Por15 on all of the frame I could get to including the pin box. The step just keeps getting rust on it, even with the por15. I went thru all the steps, including using their top coat. Tip, get the 6 pack of small cans of the rust preventative coat. Once you close a can you destroy it reopening it. So they are 2 use then toss.

I had to reseal the rooftop caulk this past spring, had one of the holding tank vent caulk jobs leak last winter. Have also redone the Proflex on all the upper rear brake/signal lights, if you have them, you'll see where it pulled away on top of the lights. These lights were an option in 2014.

I had my car mechanic do the bearings and adj the brakes.

Going to take a look at the brakes this spring, if they are a rusted mess I'll replace the whole assm.

Replaced the tires at about 30k before a long trip.
Thank you! Brakes on mine definitely looked like they sat for a while but got them tuned in with my brake controller pretty quick.

Iíve noticed rust in the open part of the pin box and I was trying to figure out how to get in there and brush it out to seal it, any tips? Also when you were working on the roof did you just use a ladder alongside since itís not a walk on?
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
On my 2014 I used Por15 on all of the frame I could get to including the pin box. The step just keeps getting rust on it, even with the por15. I went thru all the steps, including using their top coat. Tip, get the 6 pack of small cans of the rust preventative coat. Once you close a can you destroy it reopening it. So they are 2 use then toss.
Iíve heard the POR-15 is a lot of work when all steps are followed to do it correctly. Iím wondering if an industrial rust converter/primer like Corroseal and a top coat like Rustoleum is a better alternative? Did a Scamp frame this way and it turned out great.

This is some amazing stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CRETZW/ref=emc_b_5_t
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Old 03-13-2019, 01:50 AM   #13
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AFAIK, wax is purely cosmetic, so it's hard to compare to the other items in your list in terms of importance.
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Old 03-13-2019, 01:54 AM   #14
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AFAIK, wax is purely cosmetic, so it's hard to compare to the other items in your list in terms of importance.

It's cheap. Removes oxidation and will save you money down the road when you sell. It is cosmetic, but worth it.
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:21 AM   #15
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Congratulations and I'm jealous . Since it sounds like you plan to boondock most of the time I would really look at parts of the RV you need to do that. Water pump, propane connections, and anything else I;m not think of. Might not be a bad idea to carry a pump with you, I think several people on the forum do just that.


Enjoy the journey.

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Old 03-13-2019, 07:09 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by trvlrn View Post
Thank you! Brakes on mine definitely looked like they sat for a while but got them tuned in with my brake controller pretty quick.

I’ve noticed rust in the open part of the pin box and I was trying to figure out how to get in there and brush it out to seal it, any tips? Also when you were working on the roof did you just use a ladder alongside since it’s not a walk on?
I plugged the 2 holes in the upper surface of the pin box and the rusty water inside disappeared. Found them at a local hardware store, just plastic hole plugs, 1/2" I believe. I'll see if I can remember to take a picture.

There's a number of threads here if you do a search for something like "ladder". The best is probably one of the Little Giant style but I can't see hauling one around if you are full timing. I'm 6'2", could get away with a regular 6' step ladder but it's shaky when you get out there. I borrow my neighbors 8' when I need to work on the middle of the roof. A few of the folks here carry a folding 6' ladder mounted in a tube under the trailer, like the waste tube. If I was full timing, I'd do one of the folding ladder tricks. FWIW, I borrowed a ladder when I had the water leak in AZ, a lot of folks with BIG camper carry them. A campground host would be a god place to ask.
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:00 AM   #17
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What is best to use to reseal around the roof penetrations? Is Proflex the best to use?
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:35 AM   #18
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I believe that is what the factory uses....
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Old 03-13-2019, 01:16 PM   #19
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I plugged the 2 holes in the upper surface of the pin box and the rusty water inside disappeared. Found them at a local hardware store, just plastic hole plugs, 1/2" I believe. I'll see if I can remember to take a picture.

There's a number of threads here if you do a search for something like "ladder". The best is probably one of the Little Giant style but I can't see hauling one around if you are full timing. I'm 6'2", could get away with a regular 6' step ladder but it's shaky when you get out there. I borrow my neighbors 8' when I need to work on the middle of the roof. A few of the folks here carry a folding 6' ladder mounted in a tube under the trailer, like the waste tube. If I was full timing, I'd do one of the folding ladder tricks. FWIW, I borrowed a ladder when I had the water leak in AZ, a lot of folks with BIG camper carry them. A campground host would be a god place to ask.

Thanks for all of the good info! I didn't want to carry a ladder around all the time I guess I'll see about going into dry dock for a few days to do some seal work or maybe just see if a nice person on boondockers welcome might let me borrow their ladder while I stay at their place!
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Old 03-13-2019, 01:18 PM   #20
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Congratulations and I'm jealous . Since it sounds like you plan to boondock most of the time I would really look at parts of the RV you need to do that. Water pump, propane connections, and anything else I;m not think of. Might not be a bad idea to carry a pump with you, I think several people on the forum do just that.


Enjoy the journey.

Steve

Funny you mentioned that! I just replaced the water pump I'm thinking of not only carrying a spare but putting in some quick disconnects so I don't have to keep crimping new ones in haha.
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