No wax for first 6 months? (on new escape)

[gocamp]

For years Leer camper shells say do not wax a new molded fiberglass camper shell for the first 6 months. Anyone know if this is for the paint or the gelcoat to cure? I was wondering if this would also be advice for a new escape purchase as to the Escape gelcoat? Thanks in advance.

[padlin]

When I got my Leer, the paint was still soft, nicked real easy. I'd say it was for the paint to completely cure. The Escape is not painted.

[rbryan4]

You can wax it, but you certainly won't have to in the first 6 months.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Greg A]

Did my first wax real close to 6 months, but that was mainly to get it on schedule with spring/fall and avoid waxing in the AZ heat.

[kstock11]

I started waxing mine a few days after pickup! I guess that was my way of saying "this is mine." Continued to wax the front on the way home to minimize the work getting all the dead bugs off. Thinking of upping the wax on the roof from 2x's per year to every 4 months as it sits out in the baking sun all day. Seems if you wait too long, you have to add another step to prepare the roof for the wax. (I used black streak remover and it worked well)

[thoer]

When I bought our 17 Reace said it could be waxed immediately, so I did the front the next day


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Donna D.]

ETI applies wax to the mold to get the body out. So, it's already waxed. Whether you choose to wax immediately or wait a while, at least it's got one fairly health coat on it.

[gharper]

As gel coat ages it gets porous, oxidizes and can stain more easily, and then you have to start using abrasive products to clean it up. When it's new is the time to apply a quality wax and keep applying it at least twice a year, more often if it's in the sun.

[NW Cat Owner]

We went to several marine supply stores last weekend just to see what was what. Only purchase was a bright green and black Hawaiian shirt for me. Did find some binocs that intrigued me, but those will wait for later when I research them some more.

Anyway, there were multiple brands of waxes there and cleaners and all sorts of other stuff that I had no idea what all they were used for.

When waxing do you need one of those buffer pads to put on a drill or what?

We're completely clueless here.

[Greg A]

No don't do the drill, it will cause permanent swirls in the gel coat unless you are highly experienced. You shouldn't need anything for many years but some nice application cloth or pad, a nice big cotton towel to buff, and your hands.
Later if you ever need a polishing step you should use an orbital polisher and a polish in addition to the wax, but that is only after it has "chalked" if and when it does.