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Old 10-07-2017, 11:37 AM   #41
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Sorry about pulling teeth.
I've never had to wax any of my vehicles several times a year and they all looked good after years of being outside. That's why I asked about maybe the trailer being painted with something different. I'd say every 1.5 years we wax and polish the vehicles we own.
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Old 10-07-2017, 12:50 PM   #42
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Sorry about pulling teeth.
I've never had to wax any of my vehicles several times a year and they all looked good after years of being outside. That's why I asked about maybe the trailer being painted with something different. I'd say every 1.5 years we wax and polish the vehicles we own.
I've kept boats in parts of the world where the sun was merciless. I found that waxing twice a year would keep oxidation at bay. That stops the porous oxidation from becoming discolored with dirt which leads some to use aggressive cleaners to remove the dirt which further degrades the surface, starting a vicious cycle.

The boat owners that I know who have, for various reasons, had the boat painted say that they could never go back to gelcoat. The paints used don't have stains etc. forming, are easy to clean and retain their wet look gloss for a long time. It's a good option for restoring an old f.g. project but I'd be hard pressed to see how a modern trailer could be in need of paint when it's relatively new.

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Old 10-07-2017, 03:39 PM   #43
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Progress Report

Ok, so TMI really can be a bad thing! Searched a lot of websites getting info on what and how to do this job. Turns out the first one I watched was the ticket as he was using an AM Arnold 44609 yellow foam pad and a Chicago Electric variable speed polisher. Both at Harbor Freight(I know Donna) The polisher was $50 and the pads $10. The DeWalt tool used by the pros is just a beast at 10 pounds and the wool pad caused swirls. A call to Meguiar's and the rep said it was too aggressive; also said set speed at 1700 RPM. A body shop friend mentioned a black foam pad as well and HF had that too- 44649. The black pad with Meguiar's Flagship Marine/RV wax took the swirls out easily and the yellow pad with #67 takes off oxidation and doesn't leave swirls. Am only using #67 on the havier stuff and #50 Cleaner Wax on the rest then waxing afterwards using the black pad to work in. Looking great!

Here's the video showing the HF tool & pads being used.
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:58 PM   #44
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Mirror gloss!
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Old 10-07-2017, 04:39 PM   #45
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Are you doing the roof too Ross? would be interested in hearing how you make out with it if you do.
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Old 10-07-2017, 04:44 PM   #46
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HI Bob- yes am in all the way- am gonna try a section in just a bit here.
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Old 10-07-2017, 06:39 PM   #47
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So far our method to keep thing shiny is working well. As most of you know waxing your trailer is not fun and a lot of work but needed to protect your investment.

Our solution is applying a very thorough wax job in the spring using Meguiar's flagship marine wax, then to maintain the wax throughout the year we wash the trailer after each trip with Meguiar's wash and wax. Since washing the trailer is relatively easy and we are out about 10 times during the summer the shine is easy to maintain.
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:00 PM   #48
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Have waxed the 21 at least twice a year if not more, yet it still oxidized heavily on the roof and back. Am going to be even more on it as I agree with Ian, this ain't fun (but it's not too bad), however I want to protect the investments too. For on the roof for a sample and it is doing the job. This shot is the side of the vent stack which was as bad as the horizontal surface and it shows the difference between it and in front.

Edit- not done with it, will take probably 3 applications but wanted to show its working. I'm done for today!
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:13 PM   #49
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Ian, I agree. Same method, just with different products- NuFinish once or twice a year and wash with ArmorAll Premium Wash and Wax. Did an amazing job of keeping our 2010 looking like new.
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:26 PM   #50
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Have waxed the 21 at least twice a year if not more, yet it still oxidized heavily on the roof and back. Am going to be even more on it as I agree with Ian, this ain't fun (but it's not too bad), however I want to protect the investments too. For on the roof for a sample and it is doing the job. This shot is the side of the vent stack which was as bad as the horizontal surface and it shows the difference between it and in front.

Edit- not done with it, will take probably 3 applications but wanted to show its working. I'm done for today!
Looking good Ross ! Pat
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:05 PM   #51
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Painting your Escape would be very expensive. A scuff and paint ,no body work, on a car is going to run about $5,000- $10,000 and it would be more on a camper because it's bigger and every where there is sealer of any kind (brackets, screws, etc.) it would need to be cleaned up for the paint to stick. I've been doing this kind of stuff , cars, trucks, and bikes, part time for about 50 years and you can not believe the price of materials. just my two cents.
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:18 PM   #52
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Will a good layer of dirt keep the oxidation away??
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:57 PM   #53
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Painting your Escape would be very expensive. A scuff and paint ,no body work, on a car is going to run about $5,000- $10,000 and it would be more on a camper because it's bigger and every where there is sealer of any kind (brackets, screws, etc.) it would need to be cleaned up for the paint to stick. I've been doing this kind of stuff , cars, trucks, and bikes, part time for about 50 years and you can not believe the price of materials. just my two cents.
I agree, I won't say how much the paint job cost on my Boler and it is about 1/2 the size of a 21' Plus you still need to clean and wax it.
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Old 10-08-2017, 09:59 AM   #54
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Looking good Ross!
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Old 10-08-2017, 10:26 AM   #55
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Thanks Pat & Bill- feel like am getting the hang of the polisher. One tip I forgot to mention is to put painter's tape on at least the tops of the windows where the line of Proflex arcs across. Better to wear on the tape than sealant. Doing the whole frame is better still as you will otherwise see some black bleed into your wax.
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Old 10-08-2017, 11:09 AM   #56
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Thanks Pat & Bill- feel like am getting the hang of the polisher. One tip I forgot to mention is to put painter's tape on at least the tops of the windows where the line of Proflex arcs across. Better to wear on the tape than sealant. Doing the whole frame is better still as you will otherwise see some black bleed into your wax.
Good tip Ross ! Pat
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Old 10-10-2017, 01:45 PM   #57
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Wow! This is like painting....have to keep going over it. Think I'll schedule the next time like my next colonoscopy have about 1/2 of the roof done and yes Padlin there is an Oxidation Fairy and her name is Elba Griese
Photo shows near side done and other half oxidized.
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Old 10-10-2017, 01:52 PM   #58
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Wow! This is like painting....have to keep going over it. Think I'll schedule the next time like my next colonoscopy have about 1/2 of the roof done and yes Padlin there is an Oxidation Fairy and her name is Elba Griese
Photo shows near side done and other half oxidized.
I feel for you Ross . Something I need to do too. . Pat
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Old 10-10-2017, 02:37 PM   #59
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I was hoping to hear the new buffer made it a piece of cake.
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Old 10-10-2017, 02:52 PM   #60
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I was hoping to hear the new buffer made it a piece of cake.
Hi: padlin... You want cake and eat it too!!! To have our 5.0TA done professionally by a local company that specializes in large RV's, fiberglass boats, and big rigs... est. $1100. SRS Detailing, St. Thomas. Mobile Wash, Polish, big rigs, cars, pickups, boats, RV, SUV They recommend 4 steps of compound for the roof, getting finer& finer B4 the wax& buff. Divide that out by 4 yrs of use it's not bad but all at once!!! Alf
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