Oxidation Removal

[Rossue]

Ok, so I checked and didn't see any in-depth thread on this subject. Our 21 turned 3 last month and we haven't covered it. After some research I've decided to use Meguiar's # 67 with a DEWALT DWP849X. This is a variable speed rotary polisher, not a Dual-Action random orbital. Gel coats evidently need the heat and friction to remove oxidation and restore the gelcoat. Will post some pics of before & after. This guy made it clear for me. The DeWalt I bought didn't include the kit he shows and was $153. on Amazon. Also bought three wool pads to buff with.


Boat buffer versus car buffers; you better know the difference.

[dfandrews]

Sounds too much like work to me, Ross. I'll stick with Aero 303; we can compare results in a couple of years.

[gbaglo]

I use my son-in-law, equipped with a Porter Cable polisher, his collection of abrasive creams ( polishes ) talent and experience.

[Rossue]

Hi Don- let's compare! 303 is a great product, however don't believe it is the best for gelcoats.

[Chapitre]

I think duration of time, and how much time spent in hot sun affects it no matter what you use, or do.Ours is a 2014 as well, we spent 4 months at a time in the direct hot sun of Florida.
Ours started oxidizing last year. We used Mcguires marine liquid wax, we waxed it 4 times a year, and waxed the Front of the trailer, more than that. Oxidization still showed up.
It sure would be nice to find a product, that just by using it- would stop it all together, I'm not sure it exists. The first 2 years it looked brand new, then the Oxidization seemed to happen fairly quickly.

[thiggins]

Has anyone gone to Polyglow ? I ended up doing that with our 13 year old Casita, and it does make it shine better than new. However, I really don't want to get into that with our new Escape ( pickup June '18), it's a ton of work. I was hoping that keeping it covered along with frequent waxing would suffice, but it doesn't look like that will be the case... Uh oh...

All this cutting compound with buffing slowly removes the gelcoat.

( This is another huge debate on the Casita forums...btw...)

[Rossue]

This quote from a Meguiar's Product Specialist makes sense to me. If I wait too long it will end up looking like a yukky Casita around the corner. Going forward I think using the right Cleaner Wax (#61) regularly is going to help keep oxidation from accumulating.

"Gel coat is a whole different animal than automotive paint. If you've got gel coat dating back to '99 it's actually getting fairly old, and if it hasn't been taken care of very regularly you're going to be in a position of having to really stay on it now to keep it looking good. Gel coat is a lot thicker, a lot harder, and much more porous than automotive paint is. This means it usually requires a more aggressive compound/abrasive makeup than what you want on paint. Which is why 3M and Meguiar's both make gel coat specific products (and, no they are not the same products in different bottles!). While you can use automotive products like Ultimate Compound on oxidized gel coat, they usually aren't quite strong enough to really do the job.

If you really need to get through the oxidation we'd suggest using either our M44 Oxidation Remover or M67 One Step Compound. We're inclined to go with M67 given your description as it's a great all around compound/cleaner for gel coats that are showing some age. But even so, you're going to need to do some very regular waxing on this surface to keep it looking good over time. That means maybe even just going with M61 Flagship Premium Cleaner Wax once you've got the oxidation removed. Regular use of this wax will clean light, fresh oxidation that is going to develop over time (and it will come quicker now that the gel coat has aged this much) and help to keep the finish looking fresh. M61 is going to offer better protection than our M56 Pure Wax and it's going to give you that cleaning ability that M56 lacks. But it's important to use M61 Flagship Premium Cleaner Wax and not just the M63 Flagship Premium Marine Wax.
Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
"Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy."

Edit: try this link- http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...VgpHHVFF7jw.97

[thiggins]

Originally Posted by Rossue

This quote from a Meguiar's Product Specialist makes sense to me. If I wait too long it will end up looking like a yukky Casita around the corner. Going forward I think using the right Cleaner Wax (#61) regularly is going to help keep oxidation from accumulating.

"Gel coat is a whole different animal than automotive paint. If you've got gel coat dating back to '99 it's actually getting fairly old, and if it hasn't been taken care of very regularly you're going to be in a position of having to really stay on it now to keep it looking good. Gel coat is a lot thicker, a lot harder, and much more porous than automotive paint is. This means it usually requires a more aggressive compound/abrasive makeup than what you want on paint. Which is why 3M and Meguiar's both make gel coat specific products (and, no they are not the same products in different bottles!). While you can use automotive products like Ultimate Compound on oxidized gel coat, they usually aren't quite strong enough to really do the job.

If you really need to get through the oxidation we'd suggest using either our M44 Oxidation Remover or M67 One Step Compound. We're inclined to go with M67 given your description as it's a great all around compound/cleaner for gel coats that are showing some age. But even so, you're going to need to do some very regular waxing on this surface to keep it looking good over time. That means maybe even just going with M61 Flagship Premium Cleaner Wax once you've got the oxidation removed. Regular use of this wax will clean light, fresh oxidation that is going to develop over time (and it will come quicker now that the gel coat has aged this much) and help to keep the finish looking fresh. M61 is going to offer better protection than our M56 Pure Wax and it's going to give you that cleaning ability that M56 lacks. But it's important to use M61 Flagship Premium Cleaner Wax and not just the M63 Flagship Premium Marine Wax.
Michael Stoops

Read more at http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...exDiHFX8hlK.99

I wonder if using lots of M63 right off the bat would eliminate the need for the cleaner waxing ? Or, can we not stop the oxidation at all? Is it inevitable ? ( I have fantasized about just painting our fiberglass camper like a car, good quality paint with clearcoat. )

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by thiggins

I wonder if using lots of M63 right off the bat would eliminate the need for the cleaner waxing ? Or, can we not stop the oxidation at all? Is it inevitable ? ( I have fantasized about just painting our fiberglass camper like a car, good quality paint with clearcoat. )

At least the roof, like Airstreams.....

[thiggins]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

At least the roof, like Airstreams.....

The top half of these campers do get the worst of it. The bottom half of our Casita was actually fine but the top went very chalky.


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[kstock11]

I also find a Huge difference between sides of the trailer. The passenger side gets morning sun and also less runoff from the roof due to awning and always looks like new. The drivers side gets afternoon sun. Also, my 19 sits right next to an airport with lots of pollutants falling from the sky. I’m constantly using polishing compound and marine polish. This time I’m trying a double coat of marine polish to see if that helps. I use elbow “grease “ and am starting to feel symptoms of repetitive motion soreness in my shoulder! Maybe time to look into a polisher? (Battery as no electric where I store)

[Rossue]

Here's a cordless Milwaukee. Little pricey, but shoulder injuries can be $$$!

Am going to use my inverter when I do the roof so I can park in shade around the corner with no electric outlets.

[SFDavis50]

I waxed the top of the trailer but couldn't reach it to buff it out and after a month and several trips it is still needing to be buffed out. I suspect the excess wax protects the top even more than buffing it off does. I also spray the Maxx Fans, bathroom fan lid, solar panel and lights with Aero 303 and managed to get overspray on top of the trailer. Some time I may look into a wrap or having the whole trailer painted but for the next several years I will just wax it, store it outside in the sun with no cover, replace the tires every 4 or 5 years and not worry much. Oxidized gel coat accepts paint better than new gel coat. (But you gotta clean it.) I did buy a can of Fusion paint in Dover White and painted the big 18 X 23 vent lid and some of the plastic covers on the side of the trailer and the white wheel covers. Paint blocks UV light very well and will protect plastic better than clear sprays.

[thiggins]

Originally Posted by SFDavis50

I waxed the top of the trailer but couldn't reach it to buff it out and after a month and several trips it is still needing to be buffed out. I suspect the excess wax protects the top even more than buffing it off does. I also spray the Maxx Fans, bathroom fan lid, solar panel and lights with Aero 303 and managed to get overspray on top of the trailer. Some time I may look into a wrap or having the whole trailer painted but for the next several years I will just wax it, store it outside in the sun with no cover, replace the tires every 4 or 5 years and not worry much. Oxidized gel coat accepts paint better than new gel coat. (But you gotta clean it.) I did buy a can of Fusion paint in Dover White and painted the big 18 X 23 vent lid and some of the plastic covers on the side of the trailer and the white wheel covers. Paint blocks UV light very well and will protect plastic better than clear sprays.

You might try Polyglow. It's worked well for our Casita for years. It's basically a polymer clear coat, supposedly with UV protection. It's not floor finish, we tried that,...epic fail.


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[thoer]

This is what our local Wenonah Canoe recommends for their gel glossed fiberglass and kevlar canoes: SPF-50 Boat Guard ... Expensive - looks like it would be about $15 per application

[thiggins]

Originally Posted by thoer

This is what our local Wenonah Canoe recommends for their gel glossed fiberglass and kevlar canoes: SPF-50 Boat Guard Expensive - looks like it would be about $15 per application

Description
Maxiglide Boatguard Spf-50 Boat Polish Spf-50 Blends A Special Formula Teflon Technology With An Advanced Ultraviolet Reflectant That Will Not Leave A Yellow Finish. Teflon Molecules Are 1/10 The Size Of Wax For Better Surface Penetration, Longer Lasting Protection, That Actually Fills The Fiberglass Surface Replacing Oxidized Molecules. No Drying Time Or Hard To Remove Residue. A True One-Step Polish, Sealant, And Restorant For All Fiberglass And Kevlar Boats, Canoes, Kayaks. Weight: 16 Oz. This Item Is In Category: Water Sports > Treatments Brand: Maxiglide.



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[thoer]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I use my son-in-law, equipped with a Porter Cable polisher, his collection of abrasive creams ( polishes ) talent and experience.

Glenn's son-in-law is a pro and know exactly what he is doing. This is pretty good article about boat buffer types specifically for gel coats, etc before you run out and buy one:http://www.best-auto-detailing-tips....-polisher.html

I'm in the camp that it easier to prevent oxidation as much as possible before it happens than to have to remove it afterward. I'm old enough to remember a lot of people ruining their car finishes with the old high speed buffers. Swirl marks everywhere......

[cpaharley2008]

I had an uncle who once removed bird sap from a black car with brillo pads, did not look too good after that.

[thoer]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I had an uncle who once removed bird sap from a black car with brillo pads, did not look too good after that.

He was going for the semi-gloss look!

[thiggins]

Originally Posted by thoer

Glenn's son-in-law is a pro and know exactly what he is doing. This is pretty good article about boat buffer types specifically for gel coats, etc before you run out and buy one:http://www.best-auto-detailing-tips....-polisher.html

I'm in the camp that it easier to prevent oxidation as much as possible before it happens than to have to remove it afterward. I'm old enough to remember a lot of people ruining their car finishes with the old high speed buffers. Swirl marks everywhere......

Very nice article.



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