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Old 04-17-2022, 04:55 PM   #1
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Polishing

I just bought a porter cable to polish my 5.0 after waxing it came with a polish attachment is that what I should use or should I order a softer one?
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Old 04-17-2022, 05:47 PM   #2
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I've yet to polish an Escape trailer but on our Class A I always preferred the wool type bonnet.
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Old 04-17-2022, 05:47 PM   #3
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I have not used a motorized polisher, always used manual on my cars and trailers. But I am getting up in years, so I may change my approach......
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Old 04-17-2022, 07:45 PM   #4
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I have not used a motorized polisher, always used manual on my cars and trailers. But I am getting up in years, so I may change my approach......
Me, too! Been hand polishing vehicles since I was about 14. Used to wax my cars three or four times a year. Down to once a year on our cars, once a year for the Escape roof and about 1 1/2 times annually on the Escape sides, front and back. The power buffers are looking damned attractive.
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Old 04-17-2022, 08:55 PM   #5
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I have not used a motorized polisher, always used manual on my cars and trailers. But I am getting up in years, so I may change my approach......
However you never keep an Escape fiberglass trailer long enough to have to deal with the inevitable oxidation that occurs.

As with many things there are a lot of variables that make a big difference in the amount and time it takes to have a problem. Mostly exposure to sun.
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Old 04-18-2022, 06:22 AM   #6
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I wonder if they make suitable battery powered unit, that cord can get tangled easily it seems...
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Old 04-18-2022, 07:42 AM   #7
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I wonder if they make suitable battery powered unit, that cord can get tangled easily it seems...
Google shows lots of cordless polisher options.

Caveat emptor, batteries can be heavy, that can add up if buffing lots of vertical surfaces.

Personally I've never had a problem with cord tangles, just drape it over the shoulder ....
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:09 AM   #8
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I wonder if they make suitable battery powered unit, that cord can get tangled easily it seems...
Way faster and easier. Put the cord over your shoulder and it stays out of the way.
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:18 AM   #9
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I use pads from here
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys...d_rp_15_t&th=1

I have at least 2 of each fine and med cut, they can be cleaned but I don't want to stop in the middle of the job so I just switch pads and keep going

I use this for polish https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys...d_rp_15_t&th=1

And this for wax https://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Pr...13&sr=8-4&th=1

And this in between major clean and polish events
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Wizard-Mi...01217/37556987
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:26 AM   #10
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Any recommendations for battery polisher? or stick with 110v/unit? I really do not need to do anything as yet because we have not even picked up our new Escape, looking ahead to next spring cleaning/polishing.
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:29 AM   #11
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Me, too! Been hand polishing vehicles since I was about 14. Used to wax my cars three or four times a year. Down to once a year on our cars, once a year for the Escape roof and about 1 1/2 times annually on the Escape sides, front and back. The power buffers are looking damned attractive.
My thoughts exactly.....
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Old 04-18-2022, 10:16 AM   #12
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I also had to go electric. With rotator cuff issues and age there was no way I could continue by hand.
There are cheaper random orbital polishers at Harbor Freight, sometimes you get one that doesn't vibrate so bad your hands lose their grip.

The better the polisher, usually the less vibration felt, and less fatigue. I also went with the Porter Cable, buy once, cry once

I don't think a battery powered is up to the task, for duty cycle
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Old 04-18-2022, 10:50 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
.... or stick with 110v/unit?
This, IMO.
  • The cord isn't a problem
  • Unless you get a cordless with a battery system that matches other tools you use year-round, due to the infrequent use (polishing session once or twice a year?) maintaining the batteries for long life can be a challenge / hassle. Who wants to keep up with battery maintenance when used once or twice a year (and they will suffer short life if ignored)?
  • Dollar-for-dollar of comparable quality you'll likely get a more powerful and lighter-weight unit with a cord. Can't stress enough how much weight becomes a factor with polishing (arms get tired in a hurry!)

The other IMO:
  • If you start with a new trailer and keep-up with wash/wax maintenance, the manual-method may well be easier, less tiresome, and more cost effective. Power polishers are great for restoration and aged-finish renewal, but honestly there's so many easy to apply quality products now, the 'manual method' can be really easy (IMO quite often easier than hauling out a power-polisher) if you keep up with things.
  • More often than not it's the washing / 'de-bugging' that's the hard part, and a power-polisher does nothing to help with that chore which must be done first in any case.
  • If you keep a trailer long enough, pay some strong and skilled youngster to renew the finish with their power-equipment once every ~5 years.

Just for your consideration.
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Old 04-18-2022, 04:31 PM   #14
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Any tips for avoiding decal damage from polishing ? My right side and rear is like new but front and left have a bit of sun damage. The trailer now lives in my renovated bank barn and that sure avoids the sun bleaching, tree sap, etc. Fear of decal damage has kept me away from power equipment.
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Old 04-18-2022, 06:16 PM   #15
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I just bought a porter cable to polish my 5.0 after waxing it came with a polish attachment is that what I should use or should I order a softer one?
Whatever pads, polish, cleaner, wax you use I would suggest you first test things out on something besides your camper, practice… Also play with the variable speeds on it.
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:23 PM   #16
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[QUOTE=Centex If you keep a trailer long enough, pay some strong and skilled youngster to renew the finish with their power-equipment once every ~5 years. [/QUOTE]

Skilled being the operative word. I first sought out a Pro 3 years ago to address oxidation and the first guy just gave it a nice wax job for $400. At least he stood by his reputation and did a great detail on my Yukon at no charge.

Second time around 2 years ago a mobile detailer seen doing a big Class A in Pismo Beach came over and did a "good" job, yet was a bit sloppy, resulting in a broken door catch and wouldn't do the roof.

Third guy is a charm: anyone near Morro Bay, CA should call Silva's Auto Detail. Competent young man who does know molded fiberglass and how to cut oxidation.

Having spent hours trying to do this myself and watching a bunch of Youtube videos on the subject it became very apparent that it is an art to properly buff & polish oxidized fiberglass.
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Old 04-18-2022, 11:32 PM   #17
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My plan is Zep. It doesn't take much buffing.
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Old 04-19-2022, 07:53 AM   #18
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Any tips for avoiding decal damage from polishing ? My right side and rear is like new but front and left have a bit of sun damage. The trailer now lives in my renovated bank barn and that sure avoids the sun bleaching, tree sap, etc. Fear of decal damage has kept me away from power equipment.
Go light and keep the pad flatter when going over decals. Heat build up is your enemy.
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Old 04-19-2022, 09:21 AM   #19
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My plan is Zep. It doesn't take much buffing.
We use Zep and there is zero buffing. The Meguiars products just sit on the shelf. Our camper still shines ten months later despite being outside 24/7/365, and having an additional 8,000 miles rolling down the road.

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 04-19-2022, 09:58 AM   #20
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What Zep product do you use? Thanks
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