Stabilizer jack Maintenance

[yardsale]

Our jacks were working VERY hard after three winters of use. I lubed them in place with marginal improvement so decided to remove them and do it right. On the 2014 17 B, these are BAL Class C 22”. They are removed by backing out three 3/8 self tapping screws. To remove safely, extend the jack (if you can) such that it rests lightly on the ground and then remove the screws while the jack holds itself in place. Next remove the 9/16 pivot pin and the two bolts that attach the support arms to the two main members. Once I had the jacks off the trailer and partially dissassembled I could determine where the friction was. Interestingly it was NOT just behind the crank arm where you attach the adjusting wrench. That joint is very loose and not in need of maintenance. The adjusting screw on the other end, while dirty wasn't all that tight either. Most of the resistance comes from the articulation of the two support arms. Lastly the screw assembly slides away from the base section. I also removed the "T" bearing that the screw inserts into. I cleaned, removed surface rust and painted with HammerRite Rust Cap. Paint on products allowed me to get paint into areas where you couldn't with spray paint. Also yielded what appears to be a more robust coat than spray paint.

Now here's the controversial part. Because the old bolts were badly rusted, I replaced with stainless steel. After instillation I read opinions that this may not be strong enough and that stainless adjacent to regular steel will enhance rust on the latter. I was careful to tighten the lock nuts just enough to take all the play out of the support arms rather than really snugging them up. Mistake or not?

During reassembly I lubricated the three bolts, the screw, and the inner rails where the "T" bearing travels with white lithium grease after discussing with my master RV mechanic, and the guy who does my trailer suspension work. His response to the objection that "grease will attract dirt" was "Who cares if it's greasy dirt?" Works for me.

Jacks now turn very freely. We will see how they withstand next winter. I will periodically check the bolts to be sure nothing is coming loose.

[LeonW]

Thanks for this info. I keep spraying silicone lubricant at them, but I think a complete redo might be the thing to do

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by yardsale

Our jacks were working VERY hard after three winters of use. I lubed them in place with marginal improvement so decided to remove them and do it right. On the 2014 17 B, these are BAL Class C 22”. They are removed by backing out three 3/8 self tapping screws. To remove safely, extend the jack (if you can) such that it rests lightly on the ground and then remove the screws while the jack holds itself in place. Next remove the 9/16 pivot pin and the two bolts that attach the support arms to the two main members. Once I had the jacks off the trailer and partially dissassembled I could determine where the friction was. Interestingly it was NOT just behind the crank arm where you attach the adjusting wrench. That joint is very loose and not in need of maintenance. The adjusting screw on the other end, while dirty wasn't all that tight either. Most of the resistance comes from the articulation of the two support arms. Lastly the screw assembly slides away from the base section. I also removed the "T" bearing that the screw inserts into. I cleaned, removed surface rust and painted with HammerRite Rust Cap. Paint on products allowed me to get paint into areas where you couldn't with spray paint. Also yielded what appears to be a more robust coat than spray paint.

Now here's the controversial part. Because the old bolts were badly rusted, I replaced with stainless steel. After instillation I read opinions that this may not be strong enough and that stainless adjacent to regular steel will enhance rust on the latter. I was careful to tighten the lock nuts just enough to take all the play out of the support arms rather than really snugging them up. Mistake or not?

During reassembly I lubricated the three bolts, the screw, and the inner rails where the "T" bearing travels with white lithium grease after discussing with my master RV mechanic, and the guy who does my trailer suspension work. His response to the objection that "grease will attract dirt" was "Who cares if it's greasy dirt?" Works for me.

Jacks now turn very freely. We will see how they withstand next winter. I will periodically check the bolts to be sure nothing is coming loose.

Good job, doing it right. I'm also in the "greasy dirt" camp.

Ron

[Greg A]

Have used the white lithium for years on the stab jack threads. No issues and works and lasts much better than other lubricants for that issue. So I'll join the dirty grease gang as well.