Wheel Bearing Grease Seal Confusion

[Great Eggstrications]

I'm doing the first repack of the wheel bearings on my 2015 19', and tired to source the Dexter 010-019-00 grease seals locally. The closest I could come was at NAPA, where the 010-019-00 cross-referenced to the SKF/NAPA 17144, which is double-lipped like the Dexter seal, but it's only 1/4" thick - not 1/2" thick like the Dexter. The NAPA guy mentioned that he had run into this before, and he dug up an SKF/NAPA 17146, which is 1/2" thick like the Dexter seal, but only single-lipped. The ID and OD dimensions are the same on all these seals - 1.719" ID and 2.565" OD.

I really want to stick with a double-lipped seal, given the leakage of the original Dexter seal (see pic) and the way it threw globs of grease around the inside of the brake assembly - I'm guessing that a single lip seal would allow even more leakage, maybe bad enough to get some on the brake lining. Anyhow, I need to get the trailer back on the ground and back to the storage lot soon (before my beloved Home Owner's Association comes after me for working on it in my driveway too much) and don't have time to order and wait for some official Dexter seals.

Has anyone out there run into this before? Any ideas?

I'm tentatively planning to go with the double-lipped 1/4" thick 17144's, given that the inboard lip is in the same relative position as on the Dexter seal, and the only apparent functional difference is that the outboard and inboard lips would be closer together.

Also, does anyone have a good method for removing the old seals? I tried all the usual tricks, and ended up using a slide hammer after pounding a radial deformation to relieve tension, and still had a heck of a time getting the original seals out. Dexter used some sort of yellow sealer/adhesive around the circumference which really seemed to lock them in tight.

Thanks...

[elongest]

Going to auto parts stores for double lip seals have been a waste of time for me. I went a trailer parts store and found some double lips seals for the Dexter #10 axle when I need to get the wheels back on. Last year I ordered some OEM Dexter seals and other brand seals on line. The Dexter's were more expensive than the other seals but they were much better quality seals than I had found online or elsewhere. You get what you pay for. I have not had much luck saving double lip seals. I just keep four seals on hand in the shop and re order four more when I use them.
Eddie
http://www.easternmarine.com/review/.../category/518/

[skiman]

Originally Posted by elongest

Going to auto parts stores for double lip seals have been a waste of time for me. I went a trailer parts store and found some double lips seals for the Dexter #10 axle when I need to get the wheels back on. Last year I ordered some OEM Dexter seals and other brand seals on line. The Dexter's were more expensive than the other seals but they were much better quality seals than I had found online or elsewhere. You get what you pay for. I have not had much luck saving double lip seals. I just keep four seals on hand in the shop and re order four more when I use them.
Eddie
Dexter 1.72 in. ID Grease Seal #010-019-00

How did you identity the correct seal for your 21?

[elongest]

ETI uses a Dexter #10 axle referred to as a 3.5K axle. The load capacity weight can be modified from 2.5K to 4K. I'm pretty sure the E 21's are de-rated to 2.5K but all parts are the same. Attached is someone's Dexter axle worksheet with all the Dexter numbers listed for a #10 axle.
Eddie

[etuna]

I had the same issues when inspecting/greasing the wheel bearings on our 2015 Escape 19. Used the SKF 17144 seals and have had no issues for 24,000 km(15,000 mi). Will inspect/replace bearings after one more trip this weekend. I also had a problem removing original seals. I don't have a slide hammer so a brass drift and ball peen hammer did the trick. Used a hockey puck to seat the new seals. Good luck.

[Rossue]

Bought Lippert 10 pack from Amazon for $30. Look same as Dexter seals.

Lippert 333961 RV and Trailer Axle Grease Seal 3500LB 1.719" ID 2.565" OD (10 pack)

[sunrisetrucker]

Originally Posted by Great Eggstrications

I'm doing the first repack of the wheel bearings on my 2015 19', and tired to source the Dexter 010-019-00 grease seals locally. The closest I could come was at NAPA, where the 010-019-00 cross-referenced to the SKF/NAPA 17144, which is double-lipped like the Dexter seal, but it's only 1/4" thick - not 1/2" thick like the Dexter. The NAPA guy mentioned that he had run into this before, and he dug up an SKF/NAPA 17146, which is 1/2" thick like the Dexter seal, but only single-lipped. The ID and OD dimensions are the same on all these seals - 1.719" ID and 2.565" OD.

I really want to stick with a double-lipped seal, given the leakage of the original Dexter seal (see pic) and the way it threw globs of grease around the inside of the brake assembly - I'm guessing that a single lip seal would allow even more leakage, maybe bad enough to get some on the brake lining. Anyhow, I need to get the trailer back on the ground and back to the storage lot soon (before my beloved Home Owner's Association comes after me for working on it in my driveway too much) and don't have time to order and wait for some official Dexter seals.

Has anyone out there run into this before? Any ideas?

I'm tentatively planning to go with the double-lipped 1/4" thick 17144's, given that the inboard lip is in the same relative position as on the Dexter seal, and the only apparent functional difference is that the outboard and inboard lips would be closer together.

Also, does anyone have a good method for removing the old seals? I tried all the usual tricks, and ended up using a slide hammer after pounding a radial deformation to relieve tension, and still had a heck of a time getting the original seals out. Dexter used some sort of yellow sealer/adhesive around the circumference which really seemed to lock them in tight.

Thanks...

Just pulled the wheels off my 2015 17B and like you was shocked at how badly the seals had leaked. Nothing on the shoes and drums, so at least they where OK. Going to the local RV dealership tomorrow and see what they have for seals. I did order some from ETI a month ago thinking they would be Dexter's but they weren't. They do seem OK, but we'll see what the dealership has. Like yours my seals were glued in place and a real pita to get out. The bearings are in good shape with lots of grease on them. So at least that part was good.
I'm temped to fill the grease cavity after installing the bearings using the "easy lube" zerk fitting. Has anyone done it, and what should I do or not do?

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by sunrisetrucker

I'm temped to fill the grease cavity after installing the bearings using the "easy lube" zerk fitting. Has anyone done it, and what should I do or not do?

I don't know if my experience applies, but, I pumped tons of grease into the cavity on my tent trailer, equipped with "Bearing Buddies".
The heated grease blew the caps off the wheels and threw blobs of grease all over the tires.
You only need enough grease to lube the bearings. I have no desire to install "Easy Lube" or to put my faith in them.
I'm sticking with a repack of the regular bearings every year or two.

[Great Eggstrications]

I had real good luck ordering 4 real Dexter 010-019-00 seals from Amazon - ordered Feb 17 and delivered Feb 18. Double lipped and 1/2" thick. I wanted to have a couple of them with me on the road if needed in desperation, and if not needed I'll have them in hand for re-packing next September. Looks like they came from Kent, WA, just down the road for me, which might explain the rapid delivery time - I didn't pay anything extra for speedy delivery (on a Sunday morning no less!) Don't know how it would work for you up in BC and over on the island, but if you're not in too much of a hurry I would suggest giving Amazon a shot.

As gbaglo suggests, don't fill the in-between-the-bearings-space with grease - it'll overheat and cause badness. Just a thin coating of grease in the in-between-the-bearings-space, and then a wedge around the inner circumference of the inner and outer bearing. I'd steer clear of the whole grease gun / zerk fitting business. And be sure to smear a little bit of grease on the seal lips so they don't get cooked running against bare metal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And to (hopefully) avoid the seal removal pita debacle next time, I splurged on one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I don't know if my experience applies, but, I pumped tons of grease into the cavity on my tent trailer, equipped with "Bearing Buddies".
The heated grease blew the caps off the wheels and threw blobs of grease all over the tires.
You only need enough grease to lube the bearings. I have no desire to install "Easy Lube" or to put my faith in them.
I'm sticking with a repack of the regular bearings every year or two.

Hi: gbaglo... I'm sticking with my RV Tech. Just had the bearings re packed and brakes repaired (Bad ground...& broken wire) $40/ axle + $10. for 4 seals. Fridge wouldn't run on propane(Igniter wire leaking spark and orifice plugged) and I had him install a set of kitchen taps I bought years ago. Total bill including tx's $169.50. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[padlin]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I don't know if my experience applies, but, I pumped tons of grease into the cavity on my tent trailer, equipped with "Bearing Buddies".
The heated grease blew the caps off the wheels and threw blobs of grease all over the tires.

This is the same experience I had on one wheel the one time I pumped them full like the Dexter manual says, looked like spin art on the wheel and tire.

I now pay my long time car mechanic to repack them and adjust the brakes every other year.

[Duer]

Originally Posted by sunrisetrucker

Just pulled the wheels off my 2015 17B and like you was shocked at how badly the seals had leaked. Nothing on the shoes and drums, so at least they where OK. Going to the local RV dealership tomorrow and see what they have for seals. I did order some from ETI a month ago thinking they would be Dexter's but they weren't. They do seem OK, but we'll see what the dealership has. Like yours my seals were glued in place and a real pita to get out. The bearings are in good shape with lots of grease on them. So at least that part was good.
I'm temped to fill the grease cavity after installing the bearings using the "easy lube" zerk fitting. Has anyone done it, and what should I do or not do?

Was this repack the first for your 17b since factory?
It is possible someone applied too much bearing grease.
The volume of lubrication is important - more lube is not always good.
To Alf's point how he pays someone else.

Most lube volumes should be measured and perhaps a more frequent bearing inspection with less grease and then a follow-up inspection may be educational.
BTW I don't want to be a PITA here but I just have to ask.
Do you use the palm of your hand to work the grease into each bearing race?
Once the race is packed - the predetermined volume - that's all it needs with a 'little' extra on the shaft btw the two bearing if there are two bearings in the hub. The hub seals are designed to help contaminates from getting in. Extra lube around a warm bearing has to expand and will creep out the rest is just centrifugal force...
That's my 2 cents worth and perhaps way to simplistic but it's never a good thing to assume anything.

[Iowa Dave]

This works for me. Take the tire and wheel off. Pull the drum and lift out the outer wheel bearing. Get out your set of half inch drive impact sockets. Lay two short 2 by 4s on a concrete surface with a shop rag under them. Lay the drum on the wood. Seal side down. Put the largest socket that will fit Down inside the drum flat against the inner surface of the beating, not the bearing race. Take your next largest socket and put it on top of the first one, open side down. Get a two pound hammer and belt that top socket a good one or two. The lower socket will drive the bearing and the seal out where it will lay on the rag, ready for service. Lather, rinse and repeat. I’ve done this for 50 years and it works for me. Just make sure you’re not on the race and lined up square on the bearing and don’t smash your hand with the hammer.
Iowa Dave

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by Duer

Was this repack the first for your 17b since factory?
It is possible someone applied too much bearing grease.
The volume of lubrication is important - more lube is not always good.
To Alf's point how he pays someone else.

Most lube volumes should be measured and perhaps a more frequent bearing inspection with less grease and then a follow-up inspection may be educational.
BTW I don't want to be a PITA here but I just have to ask.
Do you use the palm of your hand to work the grease into each bearing race?
Once the race is packed - the predetermined volume - that's all it needs with a 'little' extra on the shaft btw the two bearing if there are two bearings in the hub. The hub seals are designed to help contaminates from getting in. Extra lube around a warm bearing has to expand and will creep out the rest is just centrifugal force...
That's my 2 cents worth and perhaps way to simplistic but it's never a good thing to assume anything.

All of this is valid in my opinion
Iowa Dave

[C&G in FL]

I, personally, do not use the so-called EZ Lube “feature” and I do not understand why anyone who truly understand how it is designed and how it works would consider using it rather than performing proper bearing maintenance. I view EZ Lube as a sales gimmick that provides peace of mind for the non-mechanically inclined but is fraught with potential hazards.

[Duer]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

This works for me. Take the tire and wheel off. Pull the drum and lift out the outer wheel bearing. Get out your set of half inch drive impact sockets. Lay two short 2 by 4s on a concrete surface with a shop rag under them. Lay the drum on the wood. Seal side down. Put the largest socket that will fit Down inside the drum flat against the inner surface of the beating, not the bearing race. Take your next largest socket and put it on top of the first one, open side down. Get a two pound hammer and belt that top socket a good one or two. The lower socket will drive the bearing and the seal out where it will lay on the rag, ready for service. Lather, rinse and repeat. I’ve done this for 50 years and it works for me. Just make sure you’re not on the race and lined up square on the bearing and don’t smash your hand with the hammer.
Iowa Dave

I like this it gives me a whole new visual on ‘getting down and dirty’
Nice explanation Iowa Dave.

[sunrisetrucker]

After reading the comments here I decided to repack and grease the bearings the old fashion way and skip the “EZ lube” feature. When reassembling the hub and then attaching the wheel it struck me that I wouldn’t be able to check the temperature of the hub by placing my hand on them. And that’s because the hub cap (we have the aluminum rims) would probably act like a heat shield and not give me an accurate feel for the hub’s temperature. Call me annul but I like to keep an eye on that sort of thing especially on long trips. Am I worrying about nothing or is it a concern?

And in answer to Duer yes this is the first repack for our 17b since factory And yes again I use the palm of my hand to work the grease into each bearing race. Although those bearing greasing devices you can get for about $10 do seem interesting.

[thoer]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

I, personally, do not use the so-called EZ Lube “feature” and I do not understand why anyone who truly understand how it is designed and how it works would consider using it rather than performing proper bearing maintenance. I view EZ Lube as a sales gimmick that provides peace of mind for the non-mechanically inclined but is fraught with potential hazards.

I agree Carl. The only use I could see for them would be a boat trailer that had its wheel bearing frequently drenched in water (especially salt water), potentially frequently contaminating the grease. And even then one would have to be very judicious with how much you put in.

The feature I lobbied to get Reace to put on mine was the sealed bearing models. But they have a different bolt pattern and would require different wheels and he didn't want the hassle of that - can't blame him.

[Great Eggstrications]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

I, personally, do not use the so-called EZ Lube “feature” and I do not understand why anyone who truly understand how it is designed and how it works would consider using it rather than performing proper bearing maintenance. I view EZ Lube as a sales gimmick that provides peace of mind for the non-mechanically inclined but is fraught with potential hazards.

Yeah - that was on my checkoff list before ordering our 19': Confirm that there would be no reason that bearing re-packs could not be done the old-fashioned way - an ooze job with a glob of grease in the palm of the hand.

Originally Posted by sunrisetrucker

After reading the comments here I decided to repack and grease the bearings the old fashion way and skip the “EZ lube” feature. When reassembling the hub and then attaching the wheel it struck me that I wouldn’t be able to check the temperature of the hub by placing my hand on them. And that’s because the hub cap (we have the aluminum rims) would probably act like a heat shield and not give me an accurate feel for the hub’s temperature. Call me annul but I like to keep an eye on that sort of thing especially on long trips. Am I worrying about nothing or is it a concern?

And in answer to Duer yes this is the first repack for our 17b since factory And yes again I use the palm of my hand to work the grease into each bearing race. Although those bearing greasing devices you can get for about $10 do seem interesting.

I have a $30 IR thermometer with a laser pointer, and aim it at the face of the aluminum rims between 2 adjacent lug nuts. I suspect that the heat transfers pretty well from the hub to the lug "surface", and anyhow I'm not looking for the absolute number, but looking for a deviation from the usual temps and/or a deviation amongst the 4 wheels. I zap the brake drum through one of the holes in the wheels looking for an atypically high or low temp - brake dragging or a dead brake on that wheel. And also check the tread temps, OCD'ly enough, both along the inner edge, the middle, and the outer edge of each tire. I suspect that consistently different tire temps between the tires on the front and rear axles says something about the per axle loading as well. I do notice consistently slightly higher temps on the trailer's rear axle's tire treads compared to the front axle (towing a little nose-up since dual axles), and also note that the rear brake disks on the tow vehicle get way hotter than the fronts (375 degrees (!) but no disk warping or fluid boiling so far). I do all of this at every stop, cuz why not? Plus, that way I'm busy doing "mechanic" stuff so the co-pilot has gas pumping duty.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wow - it's now $78.00! When I got it in 2012 for our old trailer, it was only $30. But still well worth it IMHO.


Over the years I've tried 3 different re-packing tools, and never liked how any of them worked. They never got grease in between the rollers. Anyhow, the grease in the palm is sort of therapeutic for me somehow. Remember years ago those stupid little "stress relief squeeze toys" that were so popular? It's sort of like that I guess...

[AKCamper]

I was a mechanic for 38 years and I although I tried a few different packing devices, I always preferred the old standby of grease in the palm of my hand. Nitrile gloves make the job less messy especially when using moly disulfide (black) grease.