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Old 12-21-2018, 04:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maurerl View Post
Have winterized my 17B. It's plugged into AC power, .... When I put the battery switch "down", the trailer lights go out. Which way should the switch be? What have I set up wrong? I thought on AC power, nothing draws on the batteries?
Just reread your post..
If you are plugged into AC, shouldn't the lights stay on even when the battery switch is down (disconnect position) ? Can someone else confirm this?

I am thinking that your DC charging system is not working, and leaving the battery connected is slowly draining it. I would think that the converter should keep your DC system at 13.6 or 13.1 volts while plugged in.

If I was in your situation, I would run out and get a battery charger/minder, and get your battery recharged while disconnected right away before finding the problem.
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:17 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by alanmalk View Post
. . . With the trailer plugged in to AC, and the converter running . . .
. . . Another on-off test. With the converter not running . . .
Thanks Alan. How do I tell if the converter is running? Switch up -- LED lights on (full bright), switch down -- LED lights completely dark. So . . . up = on?

Since no blown fuse, sounds like either converter dead or loose / disconnected wire?

How would I check? Or is it time to hire an electrician?
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkB View Post
I am thinking that your DC charging system is not working, and leaving the battery connected is slowly draining it. I would think that the converter should keep your DC system at 13.6 or 13.1 volts while plugged in.
Even with my limited knowledge & understanding, I would have thought so too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkB View Post
If I was in your situation, I would run out and get a battery charger/minder, and get your battery recharged while disconnected right away before finding the problem.
Thanks Kirk, will do.
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkB View Post
If you are plugged into AC, shouldn't the lights stay on even when the battery switch is down (disconnect position) ? Can someone else confirm this?
Yes, that's how it should work. The switch disconnects the battery from the WFCO Power Center, but even with that switch in the position to disconnect the battery, power from the converter (inside the power centre) is still connected to the circuits through the DC fuse panel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkB View Post
I am thinking that your DC charging system is not working, and leaving the battery connected is slowly draining it. I would think that the converter should keep your DC system at 13.6 or 13.1 volts while plugged in.
That makes sense to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maurerl View Post
How do I tell if the converter is running? Switch up -- LED lights on (full bright), switch down -- LED lights completely dark. So . . . up = on?
Yes, if that's what happens when you flip the switch, the converter isn't running and "up" is the "on", "connected", or "use" position (and "down" is the "off", "disconnected", or "storage" position).

Quote:
Originally Posted by maurerl View Post
Since no blown fuse, sounds like either converter dead or loose / disconnected wire?

How would I check? Or is it time to hire an electrician?
There are two fuses in the power centre for the converter output, but only accidentally reversing the polarity of the battery connections should ever blow those. The converter gets its AC power from the AC panel through one of the circuit breakers; which one should be labelled. I would check the breakers first, then probe for AC power into and DC power out of the converter.
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Old 12-21-2018, 10:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maurerl View Post
Thanks Alan. How do I tell if the converter is running? Switch up -- LED lights on (full bright), switch down -- LED lights completely dark. So . . . up = on?
My objective at this early stage is to skip over the UP vs DOWN designation and observe results regardless of switch position. I am assuming that there is a real possibility that the switch may be installed upside down - easy to do - and run an initial test that eliminates knowing which position is which.

At the risk of repeating myself, is there any switch position that results in 13 to 14 volts being present on the battery terminals - with the converter "supposedly" running. From what you have said so far, I am guessing the answer will be No.

Next step following a "no": Take the batteries out of the puzzle by disconnecting one main wire at one post. Just for example, disconnect one of the short wires between the two 6 volt batteries. Now you effectively have no battery at all. Once again, the switch position doesn't matter. The question now is do you have power? Lights are easy. With the converter on, off, or any thing in between, do you have lights? Flip the breakers again, check the fuses again. Still no lights - then it is time to suspect a dead converter. (Assuming night time to keep the solar out of the puzzle.)

Trying here to keep the tests unambiguous. Either something works or it doesn't, and the actual switch position is not relevant.

Finally, by time we solve this problem, YOU will be an electronic wizard.

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Old 12-22-2018, 04:08 PM   #26
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Should the converter need replacing …. which one to buy? Replace the original with same make and model? …. Or another?

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Old 12-22-2018, 07:46 PM   #27
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the WFCO in my Escape (2014 E'21) seems just fine, so if it was to fail, I would probably get another just like it.
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Old 12-22-2018, 07:52 PM   #28
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Personally, I'd call Randy at BestConverter.com and see what he suggests for the best replacement for the WFCO. I've yet to see the WFCO use all 4 stages, and I've tried, I'd want something better. You can get a Boondocker direct replacement main board but there may be other options, been a good while since I looked into it. I've purchased from Randy several times over the years and found him knowledgeable on the subject.

He does, or at least used to sell WFCOs, so hew knows them well too if that's the route one cares to go.
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Old 12-23-2018, 06:48 AM   #29
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Randy still working? I remember speaking with him maybe 10 years ago......
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Old 12-23-2018, 06:57 AM   #30
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He was 4 years ago when I got my solar components, still shows up on the web site too.

The converter I replaced was on the old Starcraft.
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Old 12-23-2018, 07:31 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarvingHyena View Post
Should the converter need replacing …. which one to buy? Replace the original with same make and model? …. Or another?
Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Personally, I'd call Randy at BestConverter.com and see what he suggests for the best replacement for the WFCO. I've yet to see the WFCO use all 4 stages, and I've tried, I'd want something better. You can get a Boondocker direct replacement main board but there may be other options, been a good while since I looked into it. I've purchased from Randy several times over the years and found him knowledgeable on the subject.

He does, or at least used to sell WFCOs, so hew knows them well too if that's the route one cares to go.
Simple retrofit right into the WFCO box that is quiet and has been working very well.
Progressive Dynamics PD4655LMBA WildKat from Randy at BestConverter

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f3...tml#post237217
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Old 12-24-2018, 01:37 AM   #32
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The battery switch is in the "up" position (whatever that means — on? Off?). When I put the battery switch "down", the trailer lights go out. Which way should the switch be?
Labels prevent any confusion. Since the switch is tucked under the dinette on the 19 nobody sees them unless they need to.
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Old 12-24-2018, 02:18 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Simple retrofit right into the WFCO box that is quiet and has been working very well.
Progressive Dynamics PD4655LMBA WildKat from Randy at BestConverter

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f3...tml#post237217
FWIW, I put a PD4645V (I think) in my Casita when the original Parallax died, and the first PD46xx made a nasty thin buzz when there was a very small load and it was powered on AC. 1 amber LED would be loudest, 2 ambers, or 1 white was barely audible, turn on several lights sound goes away. it would also do this as the battery finishes charging. their response was, 'some of them do that, we're not sure why.... we'll bench test one to be sure its quiet and RMA yours..." I did, and the new one is quiet.
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:00 AM   #34
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Labels prevent any confusion. Since the switch is tucked under the dinette on the 19 nobody sees them unless they need to.
I like that as a simple solution. I normally just turn on an overhead light to test. If the light goes on, the switch is turned on. If it doesn’t, switch is off.
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:02 AM   #35
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Red and green dots for switches are just as effective and no need to read.
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:57 AM   #36
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I just look at the battery isolation switch. As is the standard in 99% of switches in North America, up is on (connected) and down is off (Isolated).
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Old 12-24-2018, 10:48 AM   #37
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I use a magic maker and put + or - on the switches by the door and awning switch and the battery disconnect
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Old 12-24-2018, 11:02 AM   #38
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I just look at the battery isolation switch. As is the standard in 99% of switches in North America, up is on (connected) and down is off (Isolated).
That’s assuming whomever installed it didn’t put it in upside down.
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Old 12-24-2018, 02:19 PM   #39
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That’s assuming whomever installed it didn’t put it in upside down.
if the lights are working don't flip it
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