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Old 10-03-2019, 09:41 PM   #21
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I have blown out my airlines the las two winters with a Costco 12 volt air pump and have had no issues at all with the air method I followed the procedure exactly
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:00 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
The 3 RV antifreeze products I looked at do not list any ingredients/contents etc. They do mention being flammable, and containing lubricants for valves etc.
I'm quite familiar with using chemicals, I worked in physics/chemistry labs for 35 years...
The flammable component is likely alcohol. Anyone wanting some information about the composition of a specific antifreeze can try looking for its Material Safety Data Sheet.
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Old 10-04-2019, 08:49 AM   #23
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The winters here are long, periods of below freezing weather can commonly begin in October and last through April. I have I have been using compressed air to blow out the waterlines in my Escape trailer since we purchased it in 2013. Have only used RV antifreeze in the drain traps after the freshwater lines were blown clear of water with air. This process works well for me, is very quick to do, and takes very little antifreeze. I have already done both of my camper trailers this fall since we have already had a number of nights with temperatures in the freezing range.
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Old 10-04-2019, 09:19 AM   #24
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Just a note - if you are going to use air (which I prefer), be sure to use either an oilless compressor or a system that has a filter to remove the oil. Otherwise, you will be replacing the taste of antifreeze with the taste of oil...

Actually, I prefer my current solution - head to the southwest desert for the winter!
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Old 10-04-2019, 09:32 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Walter View Post
The winters here are long, periods of below freezing weather can commonly begin in October and last through April. I have I have been using compressed air to blow out the waterlines in my Escape trailer since we purchased it in 2013. Have only used RV antifreeze in the drain traps after the freshwater lines were blown clear of water with air. This process works well for me, is very quick to do, and takes very little antifreeze. I have already done both of my camper trailers this fall since we have already had a number of nights with temperatures in the freezing range.
Dave - if this works in Edmonton, it will almost certainly work for me in Victoria! I just need to ensure the little hose between the water tank and the pump is somehow clear (we have ordered the under-trailer spray foam, so I suspect it will not be accessible), and the hose between the pump and where the lines connect to the city water inlet are clear. Any tips on these areas? I have to think the air compressor would not blow out the water between the pump outlet and where it merges with the city water lines?
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Old 10-04-2019, 09:46 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
I would like to blow the water lines out with air and only use the RV antifreeze in the plumbing traps. Does anyone else do this ? I have concern about the water pressure pump, I assume it could just be removed and stored inside.


Bob
Hi: Lanark Camper... CTC put their red air tank on sale at just the right time. My old one leaks and won't hold air. I put 40 psi in it to blow down the lines after draining the tanks. I only put anti freeze in the traps. Make sure you take the screen out of the city water inlet and push in the backflow valve to empty the small amt. of water it traps. Alf
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Old 10-04-2019, 09:57 AM   #27
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Jordan,
Gravity will take care of the supply line from tank to pump and there is a pressure release button on the city water inlet that allows water to escape, once the pressure is released.
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Old 10-04-2019, 03:02 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by escape artist View Post
Hi: Lanark Camper... CTC put their red air tank on sale at just the right time. My old one leaks and won't hold air. I put 40 psi in it to blow down the lines after draining the tanks. I only put anti freeze in the traps. Make sure you take the screen out of the city water inlet and push in the backflow valve to empty the small amt. of water it traps. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

thanks !


Bob
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Old 10-04-2019, 03:28 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Jordan View Post
I just need to ensure the little hose between the water tank and the pump is somehow clear (we have ordered the under-trailer spray foam, so I suspect it will not be accessible), and the hose between the pump and where the lines connect to the city water inlet are clear. Any tips on these areas? I have to think the air compressor would not blow out the water between the pump outlet and where it merges with the city water lines?
You will presumably drain the fresh water tank. If you then run the pump dry briefly (which doesn't hurt it) you will presumably get rid of most of the water in the pump and the plumbing immediately upstream of the pump.
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Old 10-04-2019, 03:32 PM   #30
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THanks all. Sorry if I am missing something, but if I use compressed air driven from the city water inlet, how is it possible there is any water trapped in that hose which would need me to remove the screen and push the release valve? The only bit of line I think that might not be covered would be the line between the pump outlet and where it connects to the city water pipes.
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Old 10-04-2019, 07:21 PM   #31
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THanks all. Sorry if I am missing something, but if I use compressed air driven from the city water inlet, how is it possible there is any water trapped in that hose which would need me to remove the screen and push the release valve? The only bit of line I think that might not be covered would be the line between the pump outlet and where it connects to the city water pipes.
You are correct that you don’t need to touch the city water check valve if blowing out with air via that connection. Some people will remove the inlet screen and push it after pumping in antifreeze from the EZ winterizing valve just to make sure they clear any residual water and see pink. If you only use air and a small amount of water is left in the line you will still be ok because you have room for expansion and pex is quite resistant to freeze damage. From Sharkbite’s website: “PEX pipe is freeze-damage resistant. PEX pipe will expand if frozen and contract to its original shape when thawed.” My father brought a Scamp up from Florida in December. Despite my warnings the piping froze solid. I thawed it out with the heater on and some persuasion from a hairdryer and winterized it. Nothing was damaged and that was a completely full water system.
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Old 10-04-2019, 09:18 PM   #32
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This spring I had a cracked black water drain valve. We had a few freezing periods last winter and I think some water may have been left up against the valve. I don't know for certain if frost was the problem but this year I threw a bunch of antifreeze in the black and grey tanks as a precaution. I blow out my lines every year and have had no problems anywhere else. I use a small Viair tire compressor and it seems to work well.
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Old 10-04-2019, 09:50 PM   #33
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Awesome - sounds like I am ready for this mission! Thanks again all.
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Old 10-06-2019, 12:47 PM   #34
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Winterizing question for short cold snap

Hi all, advice needed here please

Here is the situation:
We have a 17B with the extra insulation and the foam underneath, but no heat strips. It is stored in an unheated garage with electric outlets.
We are expecting a cold snap with below freezing night temps for 3 days (29,19, 24). After that it goes up to 50s and 60s in the day and above freezing at night. I was hoping not to winterize as we are going on a 2-week camping trip right after the cold snap--of course. We will be in somewhat warmer weather before coming back for a full winterization.

Would it be reasonable to use a small electric heater in the trailer for the cold nights with cabinets & bathroom door open to let heat around plumbing?

I have 3 days before the cold hits, so not an emergency for today, but would need to do tomorrow or the following day.

Many thanks for advice.
Catherine
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Old 10-06-2019, 12:58 PM   #35
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I would purchase a thermo plug, that comes on at 35 and off ar 45 and plug the heater into it, With it being inside the temperature may not be as bad as outside. https://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovato...0384628&sr=8-1
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Old 10-06-2019, 01:35 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outwiththedogs View Post
It is stored in an unheated garage with electric outlets.


Would it be reasonable to use a small electric heater in the trailer for the cold nights with cabinets & bathroom door open to let heat around plumbing?

Catherine
That is exactly our setup. The small electric heater set on its lowest setting will do the job with the temperature you’re talking about. Most mornings the inside temp is about 50*. I set the heater on the floor because hot air rises plus no chance of tipping over. As insurance, I set the propane heater to its lowest setting in case the power goes out at night.

I drain the fresh water and leave the drain valve cracked open. I also drain the HWH.
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:57 PM   #37
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You may want to put a little antifreeze in the drains. I don’t think a heater in the trailer will protect the drain lines.
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:27 PM   #38
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Winterizing question for cold snap

Thanks everyone for your fast and helpful answers on getting through the cold snap before a full winterization. I love this forum for the fast and useful advice. I have to say it is also great for the entertainment factor when I am not requesting advice.

Happy fall to all,
Catherine
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Old 10-07-2019, 05:24 PM   #39
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This is the first end-of-the-season we’ve had to winterize our Escape 19’er. The forecast is for 11 deg F overnight Wed, so I want to get this right.

First of all… Under the bed, I notice the pictured tubing to a T-valve. Do I remember correctly that this can be used to suck the pink RV antifreeze out of the bottles, negating the need to slop it all over the side of the camper?

I’m thinking of a “belt & suspenders” plan:

Follow Escapes instructions for blowing out the system with compressed air.
Follow Escapes instructions for adding pink RV antifreeze.

Why do both…? Where parked at our house, the trailer is not quite level, with the door on the downside. It’s close to level, but not quite. That being the case, I’m not sure either the gray water and fresh water tanks get completely empty when the dump valves are opened. Hence, it’d be good to have form pink stuff in there.

Thank you, in advance, for your thoughts.
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Old 10-07-2019, 05:29 PM   #40
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No need to slop RV antifreeze on the trailer. Not exactly sure what you had in mind.
But, you buy a hand pump with attachment for the city water inlet and you pump direct from the antifreeze container .
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