Winterizing with air ?

[padlin]

Yes, just stick that hose in the AF bottle. Drain the Hot Water heater, put the hot water heater valves in bypass, turn the winterizing valve to allow the AF to pass, turn on the pump, open faucets, I do one at a time, and the toilet. Put the winterizing valve back.

I use less then a gallon.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by EscapeBoulder

This is the first end-of-the-season we’ve had to winterize our Escape 19’er. The forecast is for 11 deg F overnight Wed, so I want to get this right.

First of all… Under the bed, I notice the pictured tubing to a T-valve. Do I remember correctly that this can be used to suck the pink RV antifreeze out of the bottles, negating the need to slop it all over the side of the camper?

I’m thinking of a “belt & suspenders” plan:

Follow Escapes instructions for blowing out the system with compressed air.
Follow Escapes instructions for adding pink RV antifreeze.

Why do both…? Where parked at our house, the trailer is not quite level, with the door on the downside. It’s close to level, but not quite. That being the case, I’m not sure either the gray water and fresh water tanks get completely empty when the dump valves are opened. Hence, it’d be good to have form pink stuff in there.

Thank you, in advance, for your thoughts.

FYI the Escape instructions on the website and online Owner’s Manual are out of date with regards to winterizing with antifreeze. It still states to buy 4-6 gallons online (and 2-3 gallons in Owners Manual) and put most of it in the fresh tank. Just empty tanks and do exactly what Padlin describes in the post above. Don’t forget the outside shower if you have one. Then pour some antifreeze down all the drains and toilet. Don’t forget the shower drain! Simple. The EZ winterizing valve is true to its name.

[cpaharley2008]

That valve is the "E-Z winterizing" valve. You drain everything, including water heater, bypass the water heater, also push in the outside valve on the city fill idlest. Then you come inside with a gallon of antifreeze. Your turn the "EZ" valve and insert the tube inside the gal. Go to your pump switch and turn on.the pump will probably suck 1/2 of the bottle until it pressurized. You the go to each faucet, hot and cold and turn on until the anti freeze comes out. Bath and kitchen sinks, outside showers, toilet flush. Turn off pump and you are done. If you wanted, you could take an extra bottle camping and leave it hooked up once at the cg. You could then use the toilet if you had to, flushing with antifreeze. Any left over antifreeze should be poured into the "p" trap under each sink and the show drain in the bath room. The waste tanks should be empty but anything in them would do not harm as they are so expansive to allow for freezing.

[outwiththedogs]

We just got back from our winterizing event and need one more bit of advice for next time.

We had a bucket ready in front of the water heater when we removed the anode plug. What a comedy act that was, I took a huge splash right in the face and chest, Sally in the face and the tool box in the top. Then the water just ran down the cover, much of it missing our (we thought) well-placed bucket.

What do folks do other than wearing wet suits when draining water heater? I’m sure we’re missing something obvious or Camping World would be selling lots of heater drainer slickers. Thanks for advice for next time when we hope to be drier.

Catherine and Sally

[EdColorado]

Originally Posted by outwiththedogs

We just got back from our winterizing event and need one more bit of advice for next time.

We had a bucket ready in front of the water heater when we removed the anode plug. What a comedy act that was, I took a huge splash right in the face and chest, Sally in the face and the tool box in the top. Then the water just ran down the cover, much of it missing our (we thought) well-placed bucket.

What do folks do other than wearing wet suits when draining water heater? I’m sure we’re missing something obvious or Camping World would be selling lots of heater drainer slickers. Thanks for advice for next time when we hope to be drier.

Catherine and Sally

Open the pressure relief valve on the top of the HWH tank. That will release any pressure in the HWH system. Then you will get a nice even water flow plus removing the anode rod will be easier.

[outwiththedogs]

Oh yeah, I get it now! Thanks, that makes sense and with less pressure we won’t be shooting water on the tires of the trailer parked 2 slots away.
Thanks a bunch

[EdColorado]

Originally Posted by outwiththedogs

Oh yeah, I get it now! Thanks, that makes sense and with less pressure we won’t be shooting water on the tires of the trailer parked 2 slots away.
Thanks a bunch

Plus you get the added benefit of exercising that valve so it doesn’t have time to get corroded shut.

[padlin]

I release the pressure from one of the spigots first, go around and pull the anode at which time the water just glugs out, then open the pressure release and the water comes out fast while you stand out of the way.

I've heard of folks having a check valve in their system that may alter if or how this would work. Does work on mine.

[MyronL]

They are predicting a hard freeze here this coming weekend. Thinking, why take a chance, --I got out there this morning to winterize. Drained everything. Was a big surprise to see the intense corrosion when I unscrewed the anode from the hot water heater. Had to pull out the old rod with pliers.

[EdColorado]

Originally Posted by MyronL

They are predicting a hard freeze here this coming weekend. Thinking, why take a chance, --I got out there this morning to winterize. Drained everything. Was a big surprise to see the intense corrosion when I unscrewed the anode from the hot water heater. Had to pull out the old rod with pliers.

The water in the SW tends to be very high in mineral content, i.e. hard. That would account for the condition of the anode rod.

[Thane]

I suggest flushing the water heater with a hose put up the anode fitting before putting the anode in. This will clear out the anode debris. A new anode may be a good idea.

[yardsale]

Originally Posted by oldwave

I have blown out my airlines the las two winters with a Costco 12 volt air pump and have had no issues at all with the air method I followed the procedure exactly

Did you hear any gurgling in the lines after following these procedures? I have followed this procedure without incident for the last 4 years but don't recall if I had gurgling like I did this year. I am using a 12v compressor like you that can't sustain the 30lb pressure more than a second or two, unlike the tank compressors others are using.

[EdColorado]

And if you have a TPMS system on the trailer, remove the sensors. That will extend the sensor battery life for the duration of the removal.
Check the tire pressure and set it to where you typically would.

Come Spring time, check and set the tire pressure again before you reinstall the sensors and you should be good to go for your summer travels.

[Ian G]

Originally Posted by Lanark Camper

I would like to blow the water lines out with air and only use the RV antifreeze in the plumbing traps. Does anyone else do this ? I have concern about the water pressure pump, I assume it could just be removed and stored inside.
Bob

I only use air to winterize both my trailers and have never had any issues. The trick is to use low pressure (40 psi max) and lots of air volume, that is the only way to displace water in the lines. A small 12V compressor will not clear the lines.

After all the fresh tank and water heater are drained I first attach the compressed air to the street water inlet and open each tap, and toilet, in sequence to blow out those line, repeat. Then I put very low pressure into the fresh water holding tank (less that 5 psi) the blow outlet for a shop vac works great for this. The run the electric water pump and open the closest cold water tap, this will ensure the fresh tank and pump are drained. Turn off the pump, pour some RV AF down each trap.

Here is the adapter I made to connect my compressor to the street water

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Ian G

I only use air to winterize both my trailers and have never had any issues. The trick is to use low pressure (40 psi max) and lots of air volume, that is the only way to displace water in the lines. A small 12V compressor will not clear the lines.

After all the fresh tank and water heater are drained I first attach the compressed air to the street water inlet and open each tap, and toilet, in sequence to blow out those line, repeat. Then I put very low pressure into the fresh water holding tank (less that 5 psi) the blow outlet for a shop vac works great for this. The run the electric water pump and open the closest cold water tap, this will ensure the fresh tank and pump are drained. Turn off the pump, pour some RV AF down each trap.

Here is the adapter I made to connect my compressor to the street water

Hi: Ian G... I'm really lucky as I've been told I'm full of "Hot air" and my pressure is normal!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Ian G]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: Ian G... I'm really lucky as I've been told I'm full of "Hot air" and my pressure is normal!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

LOL, I maybe should have added not to use a flammable gas

[PleinAirCedar]

Originally Posted by outwiththedogs

We just got back from our winterizing event and need one more bit of advice for next time.

We had a bucket ready in front of the water heater when we removed the anode plug. What a comedy act that was, I took a huge splash right in the face and chest, Sally in the face and the tool box in the top. Then the water just ran down the cover, much of it missing our (we thought) well-placed bucket.

What do folks do other than wearing wet suits when draining water heater? I’m sure we’re missing something obvious or Camping World would be selling lots of heater drainer slickers. Thanks for advice for next time when we hope to be drier.

Catherine and Sally

I just jump back really fast when draining the water heater. It goes down the gravel drive to the trees, so no big deal.

[Fox hunt]

no issues i release the pressure and unscrew it and let it drain....

[gbaglo]

I just drained my water heater tank. I opened the pressure valve and slowly unscrewed the anode. Water dribbled out so slowly at first that I thought maybe I'd already drained it. Even when I fully removed the anode, water just rolled down the side of the trailer.
I bought RV anti-freeze, but I think it's too cold out to winterize. Think I'll wait for a warmer day.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I just drained my water heater tank. I opened the pressure valve and slowly unscrewed the anode. Water dribbled out so slowly at first that I thought maybe I'd already drained it. Even when I fully removed the anode, water just rolled down the side of the trailer.
I bought RV anti-freeze, but I think it's too cold out to winterize. Think I'll wait for a warmer day.

I actually absent mindedly hooked up my compressor to the water supply line on my Escape as the hot water tank was draining. With 25 psi of compressed air on the freshwater inlet, I was a bit surprised to see a sudden huge increase in the flow rate of water exiting the hot water heater drain plug.