How To Winterize a Trailer - Page 3

Jim Bennett · 10-08-2010, 09:12 PM

I prefer beer to ease my mind.

Garand · 10-08-2010, 09:33 PM

I like the famous Tom Waits quote, "I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy."

Roger C H · 03-27-2011, 06:57 PM

Two things I noticed missing in this thread is THE DRAIN LINES. and the EXTERNAL WATER LINE direct to the sink. I take care of them this way: I open the drain line removing as much water as possible,(blowing?) and then I run antifreeze through the faucet and down the drain until I see pink at the outlet..Then I rotate the faucet to the up position before stopping.Then I open the external water supply and reaching in, push the anti reverse flow valve so as much water as possible drains out. Then I open the external water supply valve on the faucet and some pink should show at the inlet. If not, I fill the faucet again and repeat the process.

Now you have ALL your water lines antfreezed.

Note, if you have a toilet, and or another sink in the head, you may have to devise more methods to treat all those lines, including the holding tank(s).

gbaglo · 10-09-2011, 06:35 PM

I know, I'm ahead of myself.

The previously posted instructions say:

Preparing your RV for use in the spring:
Flush fresh water tank and water lines thoroughly before using.
If you used Method 1 to winterize, turn the bypass valves to the normal position (see diagram on previous page)
Prior to operating the water heater, confirm it is full of water by briefly opening the relief valve. There should be no air present.

So...how do I know there is no air present? I can't remember if water will come out of the relief valve if I'm hooked to city water and the heater tank is full. Anybody recall how I know that my tank is full?

baglo

Garand · 10-09-2011, 07:49 PM

This is probably not the factory-recommended process, but I simply open all the hot water valves (kitchen, bathroom and ext. shower) until I get free-flowing water with no sputtering. I may be setting myself up for a problem, so I'm open to suggestions.

Dave

Yukon Escape · 10-09-2011, 07:51 PM

Garand
It is the correct process

Doug

gbaglo · 10-09-2011, 10:28 PM

That makes sense to me. And after making sure water is coming out of the hot water tap, open the relief valve to release any trapped air.
I just can't remember if water will come out of the relief valve. I've only had to prep the trailer for the season three times now...

baglo

thoer · 10-10-2011, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garand

This is probably not the factory-recommended process, but I simply open all the hot water valves (kitchen, bathroom and ext. shower) until I get free-flowing water with no sputtering. I may be setting myself up for a problem, so I'm open to suggestions.

Dave

Same thing I do with no problems. Actually I think it is better than opening the pressure/temp relief valve as it leaves a bit of air in the hot water heater. According to the WH instructions that is desirable - prevents dripping out of the valve as the water heats up and expands.

Eric

Geo · 10-10-2011, 11:31 AM

We use method two.
Low point drain, then blow out the system with < 40 P.S.I.
One tap at a time. Followed with RV anti freeze in all drains.
Geo

hippo · 10-10-2011, 11:22 PM

Escape is the smartest to tilt the hot water heater toward the outside of the trailer. All the other trailers I have owned the WH sits flat making draining difficult. I like the low point drain another smart idea.

Jim Bennett · 10-11-2011, 08:10 AM

Dave, that is the only way I have ever done it. Works fine. To get rid of the air in the HW tank, you need only use one tap.

Garand · 10-11-2011, 11:40 AM

Thanks Jim,
Makes sense to use one tap. I suspect I'll end up opening them all sequentially once one is flowing freely, just to remove the "burps"

Dave

gclatz · 10-26-2011, 12:30 PM

Hi Reace:
I was just wondering if for those of Us who are new to this, You can do the winterizing at You factory, Or advice if somebody can do it at Our residence when requested.

Thanks.

Gerardo. (North Vancouver, BC)

JeffZ · 10-26-2011, 01:45 PM

I know places that store boats usually have staff (or contract out) that kind-of stuff.. If there's a marina near you, perhaps they can suggest something.. I'm sure it's the same type procedure.

escape artist · 10-26-2011, 04:53 PM

Hi: gclatz... We have an RV dealer who makes "House calls". Chg's $50. to winterize. His truck is set up to visit the permanent trailers in some of the parks in our area. The last 2 seasons I have done it myself with the help of this forum and the owners manual for direction. I use method #2 as I don't like the thoughts of drinking "Pink water". :P Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

gbaglo · 10-26-2011, 06:37 PM

North Shore RV will winterize for a fee. I can't remember how much, but it's a package of service. Price varies depending how much else you want done. I think it was about $140.

You should phone for prices and I would make an appointment and tell them they'll have to back it into their bay. The entrance is off a lane that's often jammed with cars.

baglo

gbaglo · 10-26-2011, 06:39 PM

north shore rv centre ltd
1128 w 15th st., North Vancouver, BC V7P 1M9 (604) 987-2827 ?

Jim Bennett · 10-26-2011, 09:47 PM

It takes less than 30 minutes to winterize an Escape, complete with draining the hot water tank. If anyone is willing to learn, it really is very easy.

Garand · 10-27-2011, 07:26 AM

Easy to learn, easy to do.

As to the "pink water" fears, it takes another 30 minutes in the Spring to flush the system; again, easy to learn, easy to do. With $50 to $150 dollars you save, you can buy a gallon of gas or two.

Dave

Jim Bennett · 10-27-2011, 07:39 AM

Geez, Dave. Very poor logic there, I am sorry to say. If you were to put the savings towards beer or wine, it would look a lot more enticing (at least to a sot like me).

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