New 4.3 & 6.7 fridge info

[J Mac]

Good on ya Ron in BC! I feel the same way...
But, at the end of the day it's the manufacturer, in any and all industries, that make the selection of products and materials to be used, not the distributers.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by j mac

maybe all refrigerators sold by dometic should be 'tropical climate class'.

like! ! !

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by hotfishtacos

I would love to know the technical difference between the same model of climate classes. Is the system charged differently? Are there physical differences?...and most importantly for some of us...can an N or SN class unit be upgraded to T?

So would I. I've been researching it on and off for weeks now. The industry doesn't say squat about it. In most of their literature, they don't even acknowledge climate class ratings, even though they clearly mark most of their fridges with the rating. Trying to get a straight answer from any of the fridge manufacturers is like pushing your head through mush. I guess it's no wonder that the distributors are not knowledgeable on the subject.

So far, the difference seems to be the type and r-value of the insulation used in the cabinet. I have found no evidence of a difference in the cooling unit, but as I mentioned before, a former coworker who actually worked for Dometic Europe insists that the cooling units are "upgraded" on the T-rated units as well. As for upgrading an SN or N rated fridge to a T class? Short answer: No. Although, adding extra outside insulation may help.

[hotfishtacos]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

So would I. I've been researching it on and off for weeks now. The industry doesn't say squat about it. In most of their literature, they don't even acknowledge climate class ratings, even though they clearly mark most of their fridges with the rating. Trying to get a straight answer from any of the fridge manufacturers is like pushing your head through mush. I guess it's no wonder that the distributors are not knowledgeable on the subject.

So far, the difference seems to be the type and r-value of the insulation used in the cabinet. I have found no evidence of a difference in the cooling unit, but as I mentioned before, a former coworker who actually worked for Dometic Europe insists that the cooling units are "upgraded" on the T-rated units as well. As for upgrading an SN or N rated fridge to a T class? Short answer: No. Although, adding extra outside insulation may help.

I don't see why not once you know the difference...

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by hotfishtacos

...and most importantly for some of us...can an N or SN class unit be upgraded to T?

My guess: yes (if there is a T version made), by replacing the entire cooling unit (keeping the cabinet, interior, and controls).
It is a good point that insulation may vary, but that can be added around any refrigerator.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by hotfishtacos

I don't see why not once you know the difference...

Agreed. But, I don't really know. Just a bit of info here and there on the web. If ETI hasn't come up with a solution prior to our build (and I know Reace will come up with something -- he always does) I will go with a compressor fridge -- no matter what the hassle is with installing it.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

The ruggedized Lotus trailers made in Australia have the Dometic RMD855x fridges.

Interesting... especially since the Dometic listing of refrigerators for Australia doesn't include any RMD, or any 8xxx. I wonder if Lotus brings them in from another country? Or are the Dometic listings just incomplete?

[J Mac]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Agreed. But, I don't really know. Just a bit of info here and there on the web. If ETI hasn't come up with a solution prior to our build (and I know Reace will come up with something -- he always does) I will go with a compressor fridge -- no matter what the hassle is with installing it.

I hope it will fit in the door.

[cpaharley2008]

I recall that in some of the reading offered by the posters here that anergy conservation was the driving force behind several products. By making more units that are efficient across the board versus less efficient but better performing units in select markets, Dometic can meet the European standards for conservation. Just like auto manufacturers selling more efficient models to different markets to meet the industry standard overall. We do not have access to every product made by Dometic nor every car model produced by Ford.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by J Mac

I hope it will fit in the door.

These will. About the same dimensions as the RM8551, and the same capacity:

Cut Out R4500

[J Mac]

Seems like a good plan. Is ETI agreeing to this ?

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by J Mac

Seems like a good plan. Is ETI agreeing to this ?

Not yet. I haven't broached the subject. I'll wait to see the outcome of the whole fridge issue.

[BCnomad]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Not yet. I haven't broached the subject. I'll wait to see the outcome of the whole fridge issue.

Reace said he would sell a fridge-less Escape but they can't install the gas line in that configuration.

[Donna D.]

I ran into the same gas line thing when I asked to NOT have the stove installed. No stove, no propane line. SIGH.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by BCnomad

Reace said he would sell a fridge-less Escape but they can't install the gas line in that configuration.

That doesn't seem like a big problem - adding a tee and line to the refrigerator should not be difficult.

[rbryan4]

Yeah, I'm not sure what that means. If there's no gas line to the fridge cutout there's no problem, since the compressor fridge doesn't use one.

[hotfishtacos]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Yeah, I'm not sure what that means. If there's no gas line to the fridge cutout there's no problem, since the compressor fridge doesn't use one.

Bryan, you could propably go for either the compressor fridge or the T rated Dometic unit if yoiu could find one. I am thinking that both will use more energy than the standard 8551. Take a look at the plates for both the SN and T model 8551 and it looks like the T model uses more than twice the energy which would translate into higher LP usage. I do think you are looking at the best option. If mine ever kicks the bucket I will probably go to a compressor model since I have lots of batteries and solar.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

If there's no gas line to the fridge cutout there's no problem, since the compressor fridge doesn't use one.

True!

Those just going for a different model of absorption refrigerator will need to install the propane line, of course.

[jamman]

Originally Posted by hotfishtacos

Bryan, you could propably go for either the compressor fridge or the T rated Dometic unit if yoiu could find one. I am thinking that both will use more energy than the standard 8551. Take a look at the plates for both the SN and T model 8551 and it looks like the T model uses more than twice the energy which would translate into higher LP usage. I do think you are looking at the best option. If mine ever kicks the bucket I will probably go to a compressor model since I have lots of batteries and solar.

Those figures are maximum - power when full cooling is required. And if it has more cooling capacity I would expect it to either cycle on and off (like a compressor) or run partly on (like a stove burner) - it would still have a thermistor and temperature (bar) selector. It might be a bit less efficient at "normal" temperatures but if it would work well at higher temperatures I would gladly accept the increased power usage.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by jamman

It might be a bit less efficient at "normal" temperatures but if it would work well at higher temperatures I would gladly accept the increased power usage.

Absolutely correct. So it uses a little more LP? No big deal if it keeps the food cold and the ice solid.