Bikes and rear receiver weight

[TomEscape]

Hi, I have a 2021, 21C. The receiver on the rear of the camper states not to exceed 150lbs. I have a 1UP (2bike) rack and two e-bikes. The 1Up weighs about 50lbs and each bike weighs about 50lbs so in total I am right at 150lbs. I have the rear camera so I am able to see the movement of the rack with bikes and there is quite a bit of up/down. Does anyone have any experience regarding long term use of the rear receiver while carrying bikes? Does it really hold up over time? Has anyone made a modification to increase the carrying capacity?

I am very familiar with tongue weight, sway, etc so I understand I need to set all that up with the added weight. I just want to know about real world durability of that receiver while close to the max 150lbs or suggestions on how you add extra stability.

Thanks!

[Edgefiddle]

I have almost the same situation as you but with an Escape 19. We lighten our load by traveling with seat and battery pack removed.

The 1UP rack has a tightening mechanism that by my experience is not that great because every 150 miles you have to re-tighten the hex screw.

But from experience, I added an "Anti Rattle" clamp on my receiver (Amazon or even Walmart... less than $20...

Keeping that tight resolved all my issues. I also have an Anti Rattle clamp on the back of my truck, which eliminates that annoying slack in the receiver when you back up, then put it in drive to pull forward.

Ed

Good Luck,

[ColoradoSwany]

We also have an E19 with a 1-up to carry two mountain bikes at 26 pounds each. I use the 1-up Allen wrench in combination with a box end wrench for extra leverage to really tighten the rack. The tightening point is hard to reach under the rack and it requires that large Allen wrench that 1-Up should have provided with the rack. The wrench has a hole in the end and when you turn the wrench, it pushes out a metal ball on the side of the rack’s tongue in order to make the tongue tight inside the hitch receiver. I tighten it again at our first gas stop, then we are usually good for the rest of the trip. Prior to my rear view camera monitor biting the dust, I was able to watch and the rack looked solid as a rock when tight.

I have that box end wrench in the TV to tighten a $20 Amazon clamp on our TV hitch receiver. I have to tighten it at our first gas stop as well and I use a two foot pipe for leverage on that wrench.

Just hope that my enthusiasm and extra leverage don’t break something one of these days.

[Ron in BC]

It's difficult to make a single point receiver mount rock solid when carrying a large object.

I ran an auxiliary brace to the rear bumper. It eliminates movement.

When the weight starts creeping up the easiest solution is to front under mount the spare. 70# off the rear to the front can be very useful.

Ron

[Edgefiddle]

I moved the spare into the back of the truck just behind the cab to save 43 pounds <grin>

All the observations about weight distribution apply.

Ed

[hugh]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

It's difficult to make a single point receiver mount rock solid when carrying a large object.

I ran an auxiliary brace to the rear bumper. It eliminates movement.

When the weight starts creeping up the easiest solution is to front under mount the spare. 70# off the rear to the front can be very useful.

Ron

Any suggestions on the best way to do that? (move spare to the front, that is)

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

It's difficult to make a single point receiver mount rock solid when carrying a large object.

I ran an auxiliary brace to the rear bumper. It eliminates movement.

When the weight starts creeping up the easiest solution is to front under mount the spare. 70# off the rear to the front can be very useful.

Ron

For purposes of the OP's query, I don't think the issue is necessarily total weight behind the axle (which affects the hitch weight and how the trailer handles). The issue in this situation is the total weight carried by the rear receiver (rated at 150 lbs); the spare tire is supported by the bumper, not the rear receiver.

I think taking steps to minimize bouncing and maybe removing the batteries are good ideas. Still, with that much weight, one would want to inspect the rear receiver regularly for any signs of cracking.

I've thought about using a carrier for my 55 lb ebike, and I have plenty of leeway as far as hitch weight is concerned, but unless I also employed a good cover I would be worried about water and dust intrusion in the electronics; imagine spraying an ebike with elements at 60 mph force for hours at a time... For now I have room in the back of my SUV.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by hugh

Any suggestions on the best way to do that? (move spare to the front, that is)

I made my own winch setup but there are readily available ones to buy and they're not expensive.

Originally Posted by Mike G

The issue in this situation is the total weight carried by the rear receiver (rated at 150 lbs); the spare tire is supported by the bumper, not the rear receiver.

It's not about the spare tire being carried on the receiver, it's about the total weight added to the rear.

In my case I added an approximately 130 lb. rear box but moved the 70 lb. spare forward so the net change in balance was negligible. It also allows the rear load to be closer to the trailer shell when the spare's not in the way.

Ron

[C&G in FL]

1up has updated the part of the rack that goes into the receiver with a horizontal slot that allows use of a “stinger” lock. This eliminates the need for the safety straps should the “ball bearing” device loosen. It also impede/discourages theft. It can be retrofitted to older racks, but the piece costs @ $115 US. For those concerned about loosening, one of the horizontal channels that are visible near the special hex key actuating spot can be used to run a threaded rod using nylock nuts, a washer on the rear end and a larger fabricated (square or rectangular washer, lock washer, and nut or another nylock nut on the front of the receiver. Obviously, this requires crawling under the trailer but the 1Up, even if locking mechanism loosens, cannot slide out of the receiver.
Before 2015, ETI offered a beefed up receiver rated for 500 lbs. Reace personally told me that it was discontinued because of ETI’s concern it would be overloaded and promote trailer sway.

[Fender]

This doesn't help the OP, nor those that have already purchased ebikes, however for those considering an ebike the weight could be a deciding factor when purchasing, especially when carrying on the back of an RV.
Having just researched and ordered a new ebike weight wasn't really a factor since I only carry one bike on my 19 but here's a bit of what I discovered:

There are 2 basic types of ebike; Class 1 & 2.

Class 1 bikes are "pedal assist" whereby the rider must be pedalling in order to get motor assistance. Class 1 bikes are generally less powerful and popular with people who are looking to get a bit more of a workout - using motor assistance occasionally as needed. Class 1 bikes are typically lighter which in the world of biking usually means more expensive. The Class 1 bike I have on order weighs 31 lbs. Sounds light but it's still 10 lbs heavier than my non-electric road/gravel bike!

Class 2 bikes do not require any pedalling to engage the motor. Most come with a throttle whereby you can use the bike as if it is an electric motorcycle if you so choose. Class 2 bikes usually are more powerful, often with longer range, all of which makes them heavier. I've seen some that weigh in excess of 70 lbs. Even getting that up onto the bike rack could be challenging!

Bottom line is both types are great, just a matter of figuring out which type is best for you!

[DanK]

I reinforced my reciever by bolting a steel plate at each cross member where the tube was welded . I let the steel stick out far enough to add a u bolt to tie down the bicycle rack and keep it from moving I also added bolts to the folding plates on the bike rack it self to further stabilize it . Seems rock solid , only time will tell

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

1up has updated the part of the rack that goes into the receiver with a horizontal slot that allows use of a “stinger” lock. This eliminates the need for the safety straps should the “ball bearing” device loosen. It also impede/discourages theft.

I purchased my 1Up Super Duty on August 16.2017 and it has the horizontal slot for the 'stinger' lock.

[Ron in BC]

By request. The spare tucks up between the frame. Zero issues with it in this location. And, again, 70# off the rear moved to the front does give more flexibility to adding extra weight to the rear.

Ron

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I purchased my 1Up Super Duty on August 16.2017 and it has the horizontal slot for the 'stinger' lock.

Hi Donna. My 1Up was purchased in February of 2015 and the slot feature had not yet been introduced. The reason I mentioned this is that a previous post mentioned the need to tighten the ball bearing mechanism a number of times. My point was that the “newer” rack couldn’t slide out with the cross lock even if the ball bearing mechanism loosened. When someone posts about the 1Up, they usually do not mention if they have a newer rack or an older rack. My post was intended for those who have “senior” racks.

[Fender]

What exactly is a stinger lock?

[splitting_lanes]

Originally Posted by Fender

What exactly is a stinger lock?

I like this:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/TowSmart-...sRedirect=true

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Fender

What exactly is a stinger lock?

The ball mount is affectionately... or painfully called a "stinger," because it really STINGS when you bark your shin on it. The "stinger" lock goes through the slot (or hole) to lock the ball mount to the hitch.


Ball mount 'stinger'



Ball mount lock

[Small but Sweet]

Originally Posted by Fender

This doesn't help the OP, nor those that have already purchased ebikes, however for those considering an ebike the weight could be a deciding factor when purchasing, especially when carrying on the back of an RV.
Having just researched and ordered a new ebike weight wasn't really a factor since I only carry one bike on my 19 but here's a bit of what I discovered:

There are 2 basic types of ebike; Class 1 & 2.

Class 1 bikes are "pedal assist" whereby the rider must be pedalling in order to get motor assistance. Class 1 bikes are generally less powerful and popular with people who are looking to get a bit more of a workout - using motor assistance occasionally as needed. Class 1 bikes are typically lighter which in the world of biking usually means more expensive. The Class 1 bike I have on order weighs 31 lbs. Sounds light but it's still 10 lbs heavier than my non-electric road/gravel bike!

Class 2 bikes do not require any pedalling to engage the motor. Most come with a throttle whereby you can use the bike as if it is an electric motorcycle if you so choose. Class 2 bikes usually are more powerful, often with longer range, all of which makes them heavier. I've seen some that weigh in excess of 70 lbs. Even getting that up onto the bike rack could be challenging!

Bottom line is both types are great, just a matter of figuring out which type is best for you!

Fender - 31lb e-bike, by any chance is that the LeMond? Or something else? We’ve been casually looking for a light e-bike. I’d love to hear what you’re getting and later, how you like it.

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by Small but Sweet

Fender - 31lb e-bike, by any chance is that the LeMond? Or something else? We’ve been casually looking for a light e-bike. I’d love to hear what you’re getting and later, how you like it.

In case you haven't come across them, Propella has ebikes under 40 lbs, and under a grand. They have brand-name (Samsung cell) batteries, too. Another affordable lightweight is the Ride1Up Roadster at 33 lbs for the small frame. (I have a R1Up LMTD, it's good quality.)

[Small but Sweet]

Originally Posted by Mike G

In case you haven't come across them, Propella has ebikes under 40 lbs, and under a grand. They have brand-name (Samsung cell) batteries, too. Another affordable lightweight is the Ride1Up Roadster at 33 lbs for the small frame. (I have a R1Up LMTD, it's good quality.)

Thanks MikeG, those are two we hadn't come across yet.

We tend to buy cheap cars and expensive bikes