17b on order for February 14 delivery. Tow vehicle 2014 Honda pilot - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-11-2019, 09:01 PM   #21
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Thanks.... will look into that
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Old 11-12-2019, 09:50 AM   #22
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We like the manual canopy because we can tip it down and brush off the pine needles and twigs and stuff that accumulate on it after a few days.
Although it is a bit of a hassle to set up we have marked the two or three spots that we generally use with a sharpee. Full open, shortened for the night and tipped for water draining but high enough that the door opens and closes.
We don't hook up enough for dual hot water. We flick it on about 5-10 minutes before showering and turn it off afterwards.
I installed an inverter and transfer switch myself so I saved the labour but only installed a 300watt true sine wave inverter. I only charge my shaver and run a TV and an android box that plays movies every once in a while on a rainy day. The transfer switch puts the inverter on all of the ac plugs.
We did take the trailer back to Escape and had them change the sink and stove and stove cover to stainless.
We don't have the wardrobe beside the small dinette, we have a bench there instead.
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Old 11-12-2019, 11:17 AM   #23
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I might have missed what vehicle you are towing with. Some folks have had an issue with the tailgate or back hatch not clearing the electric jack. My highlander hatch clears by an inch or so. Just something to keep in mind.
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Old 11-12-2019, 11:59 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by h2owmn View Post
I might have missed what vehicle you are towing with. Some folks have had an issue with the tailgate or back hatch not clearing the electric jack. My highlander hatch clears by an inch or so. Just something to keep in mind.
Yes - my Tundra tailgate doesn't clear the electric jack. Knew this might be an issue.

Love the electric jack (comes with manual back-up system, too). Also loved having WDH for my "maiden voyage", traveling from Chilliwack to New Hampshire last week. (I got a Husky WDH, ETI installed it.) Having that added security, traveling on high-speed interstate and other roads in not-always-prefect weather -- VERY reassuring.

When the weather allows, I'll do a modification, rotating the jack 90 degrees (well-documented on YouTube). That will be plenty for my rig, as it's within 1-1.5 inches of clearing, as is.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:27 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by h2owmn View Post
I might have missed what vehicle you are towing with. Some folks have had an issue with the tailgate or back hatch not clearing the electric jack.
the original post shows;
Tow vehicle 2014 Honda pilot

I don't know if it clears like the Highlander
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Old 11-13-2019, 09:16 AM   #26
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Lots to think about. I like the picture of the manual awning setup for night tip down. I will have to ask about the sink and the stove cover. Did you do the bench extension yourself? I don't see that as an option when ordering the 17 B. I'm thinking I want that extra cabinet for storage but I like the idea of not being enclosed when you're sleeping in that small bed area. I need to look into the 12 volt converter. So I am not going to order the inverter
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Old 11-13-2019, 09:19 AM   #27
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It's a Honda Pilot 2014. I sure hope the tailgate clears the top of the Power Jack. Time will tell!
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Old 11-13-2019, 09:28 AM   #28
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Lots to think about. I like the picture of the manual awning setup for night tip down. I will have to ask about the sink and the stove cover. Did you do the bench extension yourself? I don't see that as an option when ordering the 17 B. I'm thinking I want that extra cabinet for storage but I like the idea of not being enclosed when you're sleeping in that small bed area. I need to look into the 12 volt converter. So I am not going to order the inverter
escape did the bench. (not the best picture, but all I have at hand)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg non-wardrobe17B.JPG (39.0 KB, 20 views)
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:03 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by mimie View Post
Yes - my Tundra tailgate doesn't clear the electric jack. Knew this might be an issue.

Love the electric jack (comes with manual back-up system, too). Also loved having WDH for my "maiden voyage", traveling from Chilliwack to New Hampshire last week. (I got a Husky WDH, ETI installed it.) Having that added security, traveling on high-speed interstate and other roads in not-always-prefect weather -- VERY reassuring.

When the weather allows, I'll do a modification, rotating the jack 90 degrees (well-documented on YouTube). That will be plenty for my rig, as it's within 1-1.5 inches of clearing, as is.
Many warned against using my older Sienna van as a tow vehicle, even though it came with a tow package, but with the Husky WDH, brake controller, and reasonable load, Sienna took the highest mountains without a hint of an issue - even when huge rigs whizzing by.

[I didn't fare nearly as well as my TV, either through the Colorado and Utah mountains without the 17B in tow or through the Northwest and Southwest mountains on my return trip with Sojourner behind, due to an extreme and totally irrational fear of mountain drop-offs. Using topological maps, I've already plotted routes north along the eastern seaboard toward Quebec for my spring-summer-fall adventure. ]

My one disappointment (understood in advance) was that the power jack would prevent me from opening my back hatch, because one of the main reasons I wanted to keep my Sienna is its large storage area, especially now that the (heavy) middle and back seats have been removed. On my return trip, I used the van's storage for my sleeping bag, off-season and dressier clothes (in labeled garment bags hung horizontally across the van on a rod), paper goods, tools, and groceries - which kept me from having to cram items I didn't immediately need into the trailer. It would be great to be able to get into the back end without having to crawl over other stuff, and two videos offer me great hope. I don't know that using a longer ball mount will work but have provided the link. Thanks for the idea!



Use a longer ball mount? https://www.etrailer.com/question-169237.html
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:51 PM   #30
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Yes, awning windows and the manual awning do not mix well....
For the uneducated what is the gotcha with awning windows and manual awning crank?
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Old 11-13-2019, 01:22 PM   #31
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For the uneducated what is the gotcha with awning windows and manual awning crank?
I'm very newly educated (2 weeks into owning my 17B). What I noticed is that the awning windows on the awning canopy side don't open much when canopy is not up. They run into the support arms that are situated against side of trailer.

I didn't do any damage, just noticed I couldn't open the windows more than a crack, on that side.

I assume that the damage occurs if one has put up the awning, and then opens the windows on that side. Fine and good, until awning is put down without FIRST closing those windows tight. Can imagine the windows wouldn't like having the awning arm bashing against them.

Curious to hear what others have encountered, and work-arounds folks have created to avoid damage.
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Old 11-13-2019, 01:45 PM   #32
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I'm very newly educated (2 weeks into owning my 17B). What I noticed is that the awning windows on the awning canopy side don't open much when canopy is not up. They run into the support arms that are situated against side of trailer.

Curious to hear what others have encountered, and work-arounds folks have created to avoid damage.
Yes there is an interference fit between the window and the canopy arm for the window beside the door.
I think that moving the window a half an inch towards the front of the trailer could cure it.
You can't get at the back side of the bottom bolts to move the attachments towards the back of the trailer the half inch, because they are under the floor.

It hasn't been any kind of bother except when I stand and look at it. I figured that maybe some trailers worked fine and ours was just the odd one out.

You notice it more when trying to open that window and wondering what the heck is wrong with it.
Strangely we have never had it hit enough to do any damage at all when closing the canopy.
I would ask Escape to place the window one half an inch towards the front so that there was no interference and ask them to be careful installing the canopy arms so that the clearance was maintained.
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Old 11-13-2019, 02:55 PM   #33
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In the 17b both windows are under the manual awning support bars. You would think after closing the awning on the open window once you'd remember to check the next time but apparently my mind doesn't work that way. Thus the broken latch on our back window. We need to contact Escape to see if we can get a replacement.
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Old 11-13-2019, 03:06 PM   #34
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In the 17b both windows are under the manual awning support bars. You would think after closing the awning on the open window once you'd remember to check the next time but apparently my mind doesn't work that way. Thus the broken latch on our back window. We need to contact Escape to see if we can get a replacement.
You may want to get several spares.....
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Old 11-15-2019, 04:10 PM   #35
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I'm very newly educated (2 weeks into owning my 17B).
Curious to hear what others have encountered, and work-arounds folks have created to avoid damage.
I read somewhere that somebody added a bright sticker to each vulnerable window as a reminder not to open any farther than the closed awning allows. I think a written warning to myself affixed at each window will work better for me, as I'd likely get so used to seeing the stickers that I'd forget why I placed them there.
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Old 11-20-2019, 01:11 PM   #36
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I'd get the power jack to go with the weight distribution hitch. Cranking the jack up and down by hand four times to install the WDH bars wears on you.
4 times? Training day at Escape for us was: tongue up once, down to just put a little weight on the ball, install bars, down all the way. Can you describe the '4-times' process? Maybe something got missed on our orientation day.
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Old 11-20-2019, 01:39 PM   #37
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Can you describe the '4-times' process? Maybe something got missed on our orientation day.

My driveway slopes so to have the trailer level, I have to jack it up to the top. To hook up, I back up near the coupler and lower it so it's not miles above the ball. Then I position the ball under the coupler and lower it and latch. I then pull the trailer out to where the tow and trailer are level. Then I jack up, attached to the ball, and install the bars, without tension. With the bars in place and chains set, I lower the coupler.
To unhitch, I jack up the coupler, taking tension off the bars so I can remove them. Then I lower the coupler and back the trailer into my driveway, then chock the wheels and unlatch the coupler and jack all the way to the top to get the trailer level.

So it's more like three times. It's still a lot of jacking. If I'm going to weigh the tongue, I have to jack up, lower onto the scale, jack up to remove the scale, position the ball under the coupler and latch, jack up to install the bars, lower and go.

Needless to say, I don't weigh the tongue every time.
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Old 11-20-2019, 02:16 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by h2owmn View Post
I might have missed what vehicle you are towing with. Some folks have had an issue with the tailgate or back hatch not clearing the electric jack. My highlander hatch clears by an inch or so. Just something to keep in mind.
I tow with a ‘17 pilot, and the tailgate does not clear the power jack head. But, I still won’t be without the power jack. When I take the trailer in for service, I will talk to the shop about rotating the jack head, as shown on the u-tube video.
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Old 11-20-2019, 03:55 PM   #39
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Hi Jinny,
Just a few comments …
1) Under floor insulation or not. I got it and am mildly sorry I did as I'm handy and like the ridged foam board installation as what BC Ron (and a few others) did. Easier to do under floor mods without it.
2) WDH hitch. Didn't get and am happy without. The 17's have their axel proportionally farther aft than the other models. This gives the 17 great road stability and no sway. Some roads I can get a little "porposing" action …. signals me to slow down. I didn't want the extra weight or cost …. easy to add afterwards.
3) Inverter. Got one and am a little sorry I did. The only reason to get one is to power your microwave. My inverter 1500 watt quit and its a $500.00 item to replace. If you are plugged into a power bush, your micro will run. I have been thinking about removing my micro and making for more storage. Thought I never used my micro until my inverter quit … then discovered that I miss it.
4) Manual awning …. get a manual one deploying it is not hard at all after doing it a few times. I really like being able to lower the outer edge so I can easily reach the top surface to clean it off with soap and water …. out camping = simpler is better.
5) Here's one you didn't ask …. AC. This is one option that I am really sorry I bought. Instead a better option is to have a 2nd fan installed in its place. Much quieter and you can use it if you are out without a power bush or generator. If you go the fan route tell ETI that you might want to replace the fan at a later date with an AC ( you want heavy enough wiring installed). I'm a little over 6' and have to stoop to clear the underside of AC. Aggravating!
6) Tail gate not clearing the jack. I had the same problem in that my Tacoma wouldn't clear. Solution was simple …. get a longer stinger. Cheap fix. Now I have the manual jack so don't really know about the electric jack clearance.
7) Get a tongue weight scale. The 17's tend to get tongue heavy mostly due to axel placement. Not a problem with proper loading but need to know trailer weight (garbage dump scale) and tongue weight should be 10 - 11% of trailer weight ( or a bit more but not less). I bought a simple one from Princess Auto in BC. It looks like a 2' long pogo stick … lower down your coupling on it and a spring scale will give you a reading. Not the most accurate but close enough and only costs about $30 - $40.
8) Two way heater: Got one and haven't ever used the electrical part. Heating water with propane isn't very energy intensive = not costly. However might be good for re-sale later

Hope this helps,
Tom

I grew up in Olympia … back when there was only the South Sound Mall.
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:44 PM   #40
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Jinny, We towed a 15B with our 2011 Pilot for 8 years, 330 nights inside the trailer. The 17B is not that much heavier, I don't think you will have a problem with the 2014 Pilot. One question would be this: what does ETI say will be the tongue weight of the 17B the way you have it configured. We ordered an E2 WDH for our new Escape 19, which has a much heavier hitch weight. When ETI was installing the hitch on our Pilot, the fellow told me that for the E2 to work, you have to have a drop of at least 1.5 inches. We had 1.75 inches with the E19.
If you do get the E2, you definitely want to have a power jack up front. Way more up and down to set the E2 up. As you have now read, I am sure.
Extra under carriage insulation: absolutely no question.
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