July 4th is my date!!!!

[Sandra L]

After thefts, I can understand caution. However, unfortunately the good guys suffer. Not that the average thief is that creative, you may prevail upon someone there with brains, that they can independently look up the website and call ETI in Canada for verification. So sorry to learn of your difficulties.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by FishBioGirl

They are talking about "grey market" vehicles.

This is not a "grey market" vehicle. If there were a U.S. distribution network for Escape, and you were bypassing it by bringing it in yourself - especially in a different version than would be sold by the official distributors - then it would be grey market. But it's not.

One difficulty with actual grey market products is that they may not meet local standards. That is not an issue in this case, because the trailer is constructed to U.S. standards; it would be understandable if the vehicle registration people were looking for proof of that, but there are not many government requirements for trailers.

In this case, you actually purchased it directly from the manufacturer and took possession in the U.S. - it is presumably the foreign source of the manufacturer's documentation which is triggering the stupidity.

[FishBioGirl]

Brian,
I totally agree, however, if the great state of Maryland can only find a way to register my trailer via "grey market" I will be happy just to get plates. The issue the MVA is having is that the "Certificate of Origin" is not on paper with 9 security features. Tammy says it has 4. The MVA website does state "You must submit the certificate of origin for your new vehicle or the vehicle's current title if the vehicle is used. The ownership document must be properly assigned to you. A registration document and bill of sale may be submitted as proof of ownership ONLY if the vehicle is from a state that does not issue a title as proof of ownership." Note that there is nothing in that statement about the number of security features the PAPER must have. It is crazy! Yet, I still do not have plates and I am not on the road to New York as I intended to be....
Kris

[Cypherian]

I will kick in some for bail money as far as insurance goes if it is hooked to your vehicle it is covered , check and verify that with your insurance agent you will need to give them the vin . I do not know if MD issues temp tags for trailers ask for a temp pending the correct paper work. If stopped you should get at least something from MD DMV to show it has been inspected show that to the nice officer tell him a short version and have all your paperwork from purchase it should go OK. If not call Jim lol he can get a hold of me I am sure enough bail money for you and the escape could be raised quick I thought this was already handled before though :{

" Tammy has notarized the document, and is getting special paper with 11 security features, Maryland needs 9 security features. Hopefully with these in hand I will be successful in registering Bailey in time for her first outing to upstate New York! "

These links might help you I am searching them now for this info about 9 Security Features required.

http://www.mva.maryland.gov/business...ion-Manual.pdf
http://www.mva.maryland.gov/_resources/docs/VR-129.pdf

Cypher

[Cypherian]

http://www.mva.maryland.gov/business...ion-Manual.pdf

COMAR’s Requirement for a Uniform Certificate of Origin

Code of Maryland Regulation 11.12.01.19 is as follows:
.19 Uniform Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin.
A. The Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin for a new motor vehicle shall have the
security features and be in the form recommended by the American Association of
Motor Vehicle Administrators.
B. A distributor of motor vehicles, licensed under Title 15 of the Transportation Article,
may issue the uniform Certificate of Origin in behalf of the manufacturer of a new
motor vehicle.

What is meant by the term “Uniform Certificate of Origin”

The American Association of Motor Vehicle Administrators (AAMVA) has approved
security specifications for the paper, which is used for the ownership documents. The
approved security revisions for the Certificate of Origin (C/O’s) are consistent with
AAMVA’s specifications recommended for the paper used for the vehicle titles in the
various jurisdictions.
The American Association of Motor Vehicle Administrators has set forth the standards
for Certificates of Origin.
Certificates conforming to all AAMVA standards may be ordered from the following
AAMVA associate members:
De La Rue Security Printing
703-450-1300 ext. 2265 or 571-224-0185
American Banknote
615-261-0610
Please note: There are other secure printing companies that issue Certificates of Origin
that contain all features that are required by AAMVA as well.
All “Certificates of Origin” should contain the following nine (9) features:
(1) Paper
a. Sensitized Security paper – paper that is reactive to chemicals commonly used
to alter documents.
b. Non-Optical Brightener Paper – paper without added optical brighteners, which will not fluoresce under ultraviolet light.

PG 93

(2) Engraved border – a border produced from engraved art work which shall appear on
the front of the document.
(3) a. Prismatic – rainbow printing which is used as a deterrent to color copying,
and/or
b. Copy void Pantograph – the word “void” appears when the document is copied.
(4) Complex Colors – colors which are developed by using a mixture of two or more of
the primary colors (red, yellow, or blue) and black if required.
(5) Erasable Fluorescent Background Inks – fluoresces under ultraviolet light and
reacts to any attempt to erase in such a manner as to be immediately
detectable.
(6) Background Security Design – a repetitious design consisting of a pattern which
hinders counterfeiting efforts.
(7) Microline – a line of small alpha characters in capital letters which requires a
magnifying glass to read.
(8) Consecutively numbered – documents that contain a number which is
consecutively numbered for control purposes
(9) a. Security Thread – with or without watermark, and/or
b. Intaglio Print – with or without latent image.
DOCUMENT SIZE – “Certificate of Origin” size specifications shall be seven(7) inches by
eight (8) inches.
PAPER STOCK- Sixty (60) pound offset or equivalent durability
CONSTRUCTION – Unless otherwise specified by the user, the forms should be
constructed and fan–folded for use on high-speed pin-fed computer printer and/or
continuous typewriters.
LAYOUT – Text matter space for 1/10 inch horizontal and 1/6-inch deep characters per
AAMVA H-12 Policy for standard format.
FACILITY SECURITY – To ensure the integrity of the manufacturers “Certificate of
Origin”, the user should require the vendor to maintain secure printing and storage
facilities.

94

[FishBioGirl]

MVA HQ in Glen Burnie, MD had long wait because no one was actually working at the 40 counter spaces they have, when my number was finally called, I said as little as possible, just that I was there to register a trailer and handed over my papers. 10 minutes later I was walking out with Trailer plates!! Yea! She didn't even look at my certificate of origin or any other paper except the MVA form which I typed on my computer! Thanks everyone for your help. Crazy that twice near my house I could not get this done!! We are on the road and will be spending our first night in Bailey in a state park in New York!! Jim we are 7 miles from York right this minute!
Kris

[trailseeker]

Good Result!!! Enjoy your first night!

Robbie

[Cypherian]

Originally Posted by FishBioGirl

MVA HQ in Glen Burnie, MD had long wait because no one was actually working at the 40 counter spaces they have, when my number was finally called, I said as little as possible, just that I was there to register a trailer and handed over my papers. 10 minutes later I was walking out with Trailer plates!! Yea! She didn't even look at my certificate of origin or any other paper except the MVA form which I typed on my computer! Thanks everyone for your help. Crazy that twice near my house I could not get this done!! We are on the road and will be spending our first night in Bailey in a state park in New York!! Jim we are 7 miles from York right this minute!
Kris

WOOT GOOD ON YOU NOW GO WIN THE COMPETITION :}

Cypher

[cpaharley2008]

I love it when common sense triumphs stupidity, congrats Kris and good luck on your event.

[Vicki A.]

Yay Kris! Now go enjoy!

[ColoRockiesFan]

That's terrific news!

[Seef]

Happy, happy, happy

didn't hurt a bit eh?

Enjoy the new trailer!

Have fun!

Severinus and Yvonne

[Sandra L]

So glad for you! Now enjoy! I'm sure this has all been so stressful and frustrating. Good luck.

[Donna D.]

DONE! I am so happy for you. I hate it when we have to tell folks, if you don't get joy at one DMV office, go to another one and maybe one after that. But, you're DONE!

Now, go have fun and make a ton of great memories.

[FishBioGirl]

First stop for gas and did a walk around of trailer. 6 lug bolts almost off wheels. Got out my FJ tool kit and put the hurt in all lug nuts. Shouldn't they have arrived tight? Feel like I need to find a garage to make sure they are properly torqued. Yes?

[Vicki A.]

OUCH!
Guess I'll be pulling out my torque wrench too!
Hope the rest of your trip goes well!

[Sandra L]

That would be a good idea, plus most tire places I've dealt with will do it as a courtesy. Good thing you checked.

[Donna D.]

After Ten Forward was hooked up in Sumas, Dennis mentioned... one more time... to check the lug nuts after 50-100 miles or so and torque to 90-95 foot pounds. It's a bigger issue with the fancy alloy wheels than steel.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by FishBioGirl

First stop for gas and did a walk around of trailer. 6 lug bolts almost off wheels. Got out my FJ tool kit and put the hurt in all lug nuts. Shouldn't they have arrived tight?

Originally Posted by Donna D.

After Ten Forward was hooked up in Sumas, Dennis mentioned... one more time... to check the lug nuts after 50-100 miles or so and torque to 90-95 foot pounds. It's a bigger issue with the fancy alloy wheels than steel.

... and it's a bigger issue with typical trailer wheels than typical car wheels, not because of any difference in the wheels themselves, but because the trailer hubs don't have a machined surface to locate the centre hole of the wheels - they're not "hub centric". Trailer wheels are thus often not quite accurately centred when the nuts are tightened, so the nuts don't seat completely, so they come loose.

Re-torque them, and preferably do it with no (or at least minimal) load on the tire so the wheel goes to centre instead of being pushed off-centre by the trailer weight. Once the wheel is properly centred, and thus the nuts are properly seated, this cause of loosening goes away. I've never had this issue on a trailer, but I ensure that nuts are well-seated before putting load on the tire. I don't have this problem with alloy wheels on cars, but they are hub-centric (and my Toyotas don't used tapered seats for the nuts, although the Hondas, Ford, and Mazda do).

Originally Posted by FishBioGirl

Feel like I need to find a garage to make sure they are properly torqued. Yes?

Ideally, yes, unless you have

• the jack and ability to jack up the trailer, or the patience to back on and off of ramps four times to raise each wheel, and
• either a torque wrench or a good feel for the appropriate force to apply to your wrench to get to a suitable torque level.

[Cypherian]

This might help when torqueing lug nuts.

You might wish to purchase one of these: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torque-wrench-1-2inch-drive/p-00931425000P?&redirectType=SRDT to check them periodically I believe it is recommended before and after each trip. I recommend the clicker style of torque wrench as the other type which has a long pointer bar on it is very sensitive to being banged around. The micro adjust style is a little less sensitive. On a similar note your Tug wheels should be torqued correctly if you take it to a tire shop or where ever for rotation etc and they put them on to tight you might not be able to get one off in the event of a flat. Moreover, you can actually warp the disk brake or axle flanges with over tightening of the lug nuts. One of these http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W1-4-Way-Wrench-20-Inch/dp/B0002KNYK6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405118990&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=rust+proof+4+way+lug+wrench
would go well in the front storage box 13/16" is the size according to what has been posted before. It is a standard on one of the 4 ways the 20 inch will give you leverage to loosen or tighten the lug nuts. Which should be done in a cross hatch pattern. Something I have stated before Never coat the stud with grease, oil or antiseize it will change the torque value. Lower the jack only enough to bring the tire into contact with the road. Tighten each nut to one-half of the specified torque. Then lower the vehicle completely and tighten each nut to full torque.

The above is for informational use only every Tug is different and every trailer is a little different based on axels used at the time and wheels etc. So DO YOUR HOMEWORK..:}

Dang it BP you type faster then I DO !! lol
Cypher