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[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by richardf

Are there any advantages of the B&D hitch over a Draw Tite that you would know of. I visited my local trailer supply dealer and they were only familiar with that brand.

First, the company which makes the Turnoverball and other towing products is B&W, not B&D. It doesn't matter except that if you do web searches for B&D all you're going to find is Black & Decker... and they do tools, not hitches.

Draw-Tite is one of the Cequent brands, and Cequent is huge in the towing equipment business... while B&W is a small specialty company. A dealer for Cequent which doesn't carry B&W would know about the Cequent products - that's not surprising.

Also, it's important to understand that the Andersen Ultimate - the system which convert a fifth-wheel trailer to using a ball mounted high on a pyramidal framework - is not a B&W product. While it can be used with a B&W Turnoverball, it can also be used with any other bed-floor ball hitch. What Draw-Tite product are you comparing?

• Draw-Tite has an under-bed "gooseneck" hitch which could be used instead of the B&W Turnoverball. There are other brands of under-bed mounted bed floor ball hitches, and any of the would work with the "gooseneck" version of the Andersen Ultimate. Rich, I'm guessing that this is what you're asking about.
• Draw-Tite doesn't sell a conventionally mounted fifth-wheel hitch, but they do have a fifth-wheel that anchors to a ball in the bed, the way the Andersen Ultimate "gooseneck" version does: Hide-A-Goose Fifth Wheel Adapter. Rich, I'm guessing this is not the Draw-Tite part that you're asking about, although it could be used (with any brand of under-floor ball hitch) to make a setup that would not leave mounting rails in the truck bed when not towing.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by richardf

I was on B&D's web site and they had an offset ball that was offset by 5". Was wondering if this could be used with the Anderson Ultimate Aluminum hitch which is offset by 4", which would be a total of 9" offset.

Draw-Tite has an offset ball for their under-bed hitch, too. As Jim showed, the Andersen Ultimate's offset of the towing ball from the mounting centre is 5.5", not 4". Even with that total of 10.5", I would not be really comfortable with using a system anchored to a mounting point nearly at the front the Andersen Ultimate frame base. I suppose since it would be used at about one-quarter of the rated capacity for each component, it would probably be okay... but don't sue me if it isn't stable!

The coupler block of the Andersen Ultimate system offsets the socket for the towing ball 4" from the king pin, but that's not the same as shifting the towing ball location along the truck.

[Brian B-P]

Rich is considering adding the offsets of the Andersen Ultimate Gooseneck and an offset ball in the under-bed hitch, presumably to provide more clearance to the cab with his shorter box. In contrast...

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I have looked at that offset hitch, thinking to go the other way myself. It certainly looks beefy, and doubt there would be an issue with using it. The one I saw is a 4" offset, and my Andersen ultimate has a 5 1/2" offset. This would take it back to almost right over the axle, as the B&W is a good inch forward of the axle. Of course, I will make no decision until I actually try out the trailer. My only reason for considering this is to shorten my overall length a bit.]

As Jim explained, he would use the offset ball the other way, mostly cancelling the offset of the Andersen. Structurally I agree that this seems sound, and dynamically it is always a good idea to keep the pin weight forward as much as practical... as well as keeping the length down. Adding the offsets concerns me, but I don't see any concern with subtracting them.

[richardf]

Thanks Brian, yes it is B&W, not B&D. I have been looking at too many websites lately. And it is the undermount system that I was thinking of. I see earlier you mentioned an adapter that connected directly from the trailer down to the goose neck ball. I do not like that system. I really think the undermount gooseneck system with the Anderson Ultimate Hitch sounds the best to me. I will just have to wait and see what the clearances are when trailer is backed close to 90 degrees is from someone who has a 5' bed.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by richardf

I will just have to wait and see what the clearances are when trailer is backed close to 90 degrees is from someone who has a 5' bed.

That's all been worked out, with other comparable trucks and specifically with that box size in a current F-150. It's just a matter - which is not trivial - of searching the forum for existing threads about the 5.0TA with a 5.5' box.

The 2017+ 5.0TA appears to be a couple of inches wider in the front than the 5.0TA up to 2016, so if you want to go all the way to a 90-degree turn you might want to consider that. Some with a 2017 5.0TA (Jim?) can confirm the actual width when they get theirs.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by richardf

Thanks Brian, yes it is B&W, not B&D. I have been looking at too many websites lately. And it is the undermount system that I was thinking of. I see earlier you mentioned an adapter that connected directly from the trailer down to the goose neck ball. I do not like that system. I really think the undermount gooseneck system with the Anderson Ultimate Hitch sounds the best to me. I will just have to wait and see what the clearances are when trailer is backed close to 90 degrees is from someone who has a 5' bed.

Hi: richardf... It might be worth checking in with Reace at ETI. I believe his F150 Crew Cab has a 5'5" box and their trailer of choice for towing is the 5.0TA. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[strawbarry]

While knowing you have the clearance to make a 90 degree turn is important, actually making such a turn involves a lot more consideration. One of the things to remember is the axles and suspension on the trailer are trying to rotate the tires off the wheel. On a soft surface the dirt gives and you dig a trench. On pavement the tires take most of the torque. You can remove the tire from the wheel if your not paying attention.

In my experience the most that has been required is way less than 90. The more important clearance is the height over the bed. The act of crossing a ditch and going up or down a hill at the same time can cause a collision between trailer and truck bed. While your attention is on driving forward you do not see it happening. This clearance is set by build height, you can adjust with pin box height changes but a level ride will be lost.

[Jim Bennett]

The only times I have ever needed to go near 90° was to park the trailer in a campsite 90° to the access in, in order to get that "idea;" setup. Even there is was not needed, just desired. Otherwise there is no need at all for turning that sharp, and one could easily get away with less, just watch carefully as the corner of the trailer nears the cab of the truck.

This is one small advantage of a fifth wheel, as with a bumper tow you cannot get anywhere near 90°, yet always get set up regardless.

As Barry mentioned, one has to take care with the sideways forces on the tires. There is a lot of twisting action when reversing at or near 90°.

[emers382]

Originally Posted by strawbarry

The more important clearance is the height over the bed. The act of crossing a ditch and going up or down a hill at the same time can cause a collision between trailer and truck bed. While your attention is on driving forward you do not see it happening. This clearance is set by build height, you can adjust with pin box height changes but a level ride will be lost.

So true. With our new higher truck bed I lowered the fifth wheel in order to get a level ride for the trailer. First time I hooked up went around the block and backed trailer on to pad forgetting about the drop from the road over the grass to get to the pad. It wasn't until later I noticed a gouge in the top of plastic tailgate cover and realised it was from a rounded nut Alf had put on the bolts sticking out from bottom of trailer frame I cut off the two offending nuts and bought new plastic cover which fortunately was only $50. I now carefully watch any abrupt rise or fall to avoid a similar contact.

Adrian

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by emers382

So true. With our new higher truck bed I lowered the fifth wheel in order to get a level ride for the trailer. First time I hooked up went around the block and backed trailer on to pad forgetting about the drop from the road over the grass to get to the pad. It wasn't until later I noticed a gouge in the top of plastic tailgate cover and realised it was from a rounded nut Alf had put on the bolts sticking out from bottom of trailer frame I cut off the two offending nuts and bought new plastic cover which fortunately was only $50. I now carefully watch any abrupt rise or fall to avoid a similar contact.

Adrian

Hi: emers382... Sorry... I put those acorn nuts on there to save someone else's scalp. I know cause it took a long time to stop the bleeding. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie