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12-29-2015, 03:35 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ponoka, Alberta
Trailer: 2016 19 classic "outta sight", jeep rubicon unlimited
Posts: 1,645
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Solar 19
Would anybody be willing to help me out on what we need to order on our build sheet? We'd like to go with solar on our 19 what will have a u shape in the front. Dual 6 v batteries? Placed under dinette? Solar panel(s) on the front of the roof? Do we need an inverter? Which one? (only use coffee pot, cell phone charger, shaver, hair dryer, etc, and there is the fridge) Do we need surge protector? Outside plug for portable solar, just in case? What plug ins can be used with just solar? Do we need the transfer switch for on all outlets (option)?
Read most the treads, but getting sooo confused. Seen you all are very helpful on this forum. Really thumbs up!!! Hope someone is willing to help me out.....?
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12-29-2015, 03:50 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Galesville, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2017 21 "Blue II" & 2017 Highlander XLE (previously 2010 17B "Blue" & 2008 Tacoma)
Posts: 4,241
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Hi Marry - a lot depends on how much time you plan on being in places with shore power vs. camping without power. For anyone who camps a lot without shore power, I think dual 6v are essential and solar will go a long way keeping them charged for you. Inverters are one of those things that depends on how much AC stuff you want to run while on battery. Surge protectors are great insurance in my opinion. I already have an external solar, so am probably going to ask Reace to put in a plug for that - but that is not an official option yet.
Welcome to the forum and you will get plenty of help and opinions!
__________________
Eric (and Mary who is in no way responsible for anything stupid I post)
"Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance." George Bernard Shaw
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12-29-2015, 03:59 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Definitely get the solar and dual six batteries as well as the extra insulation and thermal windows. Surge protection also. This is a great start and other things can be added later.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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12-29-2015, 04:06 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ponoka, Alberta
Trailer: 2016 19 classic "outta sight", jeep rubicon unlimited
Posts: 1,645
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Surge protector: what does it do? What does it protect from? (Going without a.c., microwave)
Inverter needed?
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12-29-2015, 04:16 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Galesville, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2017 21 "Blue II" & 2017 Highlander XLE (previously 2010 17B "Blue" & 2008 Tacoma)
Posts: 4,241
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Surge protector - helps prevent the electronics in the trailer from being damaged from "bad" electrical circuits, voltage spikes, low voltage, etc that seem to be all too prevalent in trailer power posts in RV campgrounds.
Inverters are only to run AC powered appliances and devices while you are on battery power only,
__________________
Eric (and Mary who is in no way responsible for anything stupid I post)
"Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance." George Bernard Shaw
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12-29-2015, 04:35 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ponoka, Alberta
Trailer: 2016 19 classic "outta sight", jeep rubicon unlimited
Posts: 1,645
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So 160W solar panel with charge controller and a surge protector I need?
And I will be able to use all plug ins in the trailer without further modification?
Also what is needed to use a portable solar on the side?
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12-29-2015, 04:39 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Galesville, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2017 21 "Blue II" & 2017 Highlander XLE (previously 2010 17B "Blue" & 2008 Tacoma)
Posts: 4,241
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You can just hook the portable solar directly to the batteries using the portable's charge controller. But I think the better route is to run the panels into the Escape's charge controller to add to the mounted panel's output.. To do this, you must get Reace to agree to add a receptacle that is wired into the controller. There is no agreement yet on the best receptable/plug arrangement - there are a couple of thread where this is currently being discussed.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f3...hers-6908.html
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f3...atts-6480.html
__________________
Eric (and Mary who is in no way responsible for anything stupid I post)
"Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance." George Bernard Shaw
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12-29-2015, 04:49 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ponoka, Alberta
Trailer: 2016 19 classic "outta sight", jeep rubicon unlimited
Posts: 1,645
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Do we need a switch or something to go from solar to normal power?
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12-29-2015, 04:51 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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Marry
To go solar, you need the 160W panel and the controller. When going with solar you don't have to have the twin 6 volt batteries, but it's a good thing to do.
You mention "will be able to use all plug ins in the trailer without further modification?". You will have to get an Inverter, if you plan on running a hair dryer go with the biggest one ETI sells, currently 1500watt. Going with an inverter you need to decide if you want just one receptacle powered (default) when not hooked to city power, or all the receptacles. "All" is an optional $300 transfer switch.
Going with an Inverter, you should definitely get the twin 6 volt batteries.
You should do some research on battery power, in relation to using an inverter. A hair dryer sucks a lot of battery capacity.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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12-29-2015, 04:52 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 743
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Marry,
There are 2 power systems in our trailers: the 12v and the 120v. Your normal househouse plugs, as for your hair dryer and coffee pot, run on the 120v system. Various built-in things, like the fridge and all the lights, run on the 12v system.
Also, standard, is a thing often called a "converter", which converts 120v power to 12v power.
So, with no options, when you are at a campground with "shore power" -- that is, when you have a site that you can plug your trailer into a 120v post -- all of your outlets (both 12v and 120v) work. And, your battery will charge up as well if it's depleted.
If your trailer is not plugged in to 120v, and you have no additional options purchased, then your 12v systems will all still work, by drawing power off the battery. But your 120v system will not function. No hair dryer, no coffee pot, no microwave oven.
OK, let's talk options. There are three relevant to this conversation: battery upgrades, solar and an inverter.
First, the inverter. It does the opposite job of the converter. The converter allows a 120v power source to power your 12v system. The inverter allows a 12v power source (like your battery!) to power the 120v system in your trailer. So with an inverter, you can use your 120v appliances even when you aren't plugged in to 120v power. But be careful -- it's very easy to draw your battery down too far running high power appliances like hair dryers and coffee pots. Don't plan on using them for more than a few minutes a day.
I don't have an inverter, so best get information on the details and options for an inverter from others.
Battery upgrades are obvious: they let you go longer before you need to charge your battery.
Solar is simply a way of charging your battery when you are not plugged in. With a large enough solar system and cooperation from the sun, you can fully charge your battery each day. But the sun doesn't always cooperate, so some times its good to have both solar and an upgraded battery (to let you last multiple days without good sun).
So, in summary:
- if you always have a campsite that lets you plug in to 120v, you don't need any of these.
- if you will only occasionally not be able to plug in, but still want to be able to use your 120v appliances in those circumstances, you are probably ok with just an inverter. But monitor your battery level to make sure you don't drain it.
- if you will not be able to plug in more than occasionally, and still want your 120v appliances, some combination of upgraded battery and solar is a good idea to make sure you have enough capacity. But you still need to monitor your battery levels.
Hope that helps...
__________________
Doug
2013 Escape 19 ("The Dog House") , 2018 Ford F150
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12-29-2015, 04:53 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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The Surge Protector is a good thing to have, but has nothing to do with solar.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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12-29-2015, 05:06 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ponoka, Alberta
Trailer: 2016 19 classic "outta sight", jeep rubicon unlimited
Posts: 1,645
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Thank you! This is info that helps understand the inverter/converter issue. (I might come up with some more questions later...)
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12-29-2015, 05:14 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Galesville, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2017 21 "Blue II" & 2017 Highlander XLE (previously 2010 17B "Blue" & 2008 Tacoma)
Posts: 4,241
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Doug - very nice intro to trailer power summary!
__________________
Eric (and Mary who is in no way responsible for anything stupid I post)
"Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance." George Bernard Shaw
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12-29-2015, 05:49 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoer
Doug - very nice intro to trailer power summary!
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2X! I agree, very informative.
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12-29-2015, 05:58 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,414
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Electrical explanation
Doug's explanation was very well done. If there's a reference section for the inverter, solar and converter question every time it comes up , this could be the concise definitive post.
Nice job indeed.
Dave
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12-29-2015, 06:27 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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marry, please read this The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1) and part 2
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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12-29-2015, 06:50 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chattanooga, Tennessee
Trailer: 2015 19 foot
Posts: 439
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Marry,
On a 19, the batteries are placed in a battery box or front storage box on the tongue of the trailer, not under the dinette. I have dual 6 volt batteries in a front storage box and this works fine, although it does make the tongue kind of heavy.
I also don't have an inverter and that's been fine for us. I have a small plug-in inverter and use it to recharge our electric toothbrushes. The surge protector is a great idea, as I have one experience already with overvoltage in a campground.
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12-29-2015, 06:54 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Denison, Texas
Trailer: 2015 21'; 2011 19' sold; 4Runner; ph ninezero3 327-27ninefour
Posts: 5,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marry
So 160W solar panel with charge controller and a surge protector I need?
And I will be able to use all plug ins in the trailer without further modification?
Also what is needed to use a portable solar on the side?
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If you are getting solar, then I take it you want to boondock (not hooked into electric at a campground) at least some of the time. Yes, the two six-volt batteries are good to get with solar.
When not hooked up, if you want to use your 110 outlets and run a high-draw item such as a hair dryer, you need the 1500 watt inverter, and then can only probably run on low for a little while. Your 110 outlets will not work without an inverter and to use all of them, you need the transfer switch in addition to the inverter.
__________________
Cathy. Floating Cloud
"Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.... "
Emerson
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12-29-2015, 08:06 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Trailer: 2015 E'21 - 'Velocity'. Tow: Toyota Tacoma V6, 4X4, manual.
Posts: 1,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marry
So 160W solar panel with charge controller and a surge protector I need?
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There are many options you can skip at first and add as you gain camping experience. For example, we asked ETI for "A/C ready", "Television Ready" and "Microwave ready" options but skipped the actual air conditioner, microwave & tv. The next owner can add these rather easily since the framework and wires are ready.
The same can be done for most options regarding batteries, solar, etc. If you ask ETI to build your trailer "solar ready" and "dual 6v battery ready" and add these later if you are so inclined and don't mind doing a bit of research and labor yourself. We also skipped the inverter and surge protector. I do own a nice inverter but have yet to find a solid reason to bring it along camping. And I was recently advised to bring a surge protector to a specific campground that will be our home for 4 months soon. I purchased a "full trailer" portable surge protector on Amazon and will take it along for this trip, but will leave it home for most boondocking.
The transfer switch may be one of the exceptions that you need ETI to install - if you decide you are doing the type of camping where you need one.
What really counts is knowing what your camping style is, and how it might evolve as you settle into your new trailer. We had the advantage of 40 years of tent camping and a few years of living on a sailboat. Still, probably, there is something that someday I am going to "wish I asked ETI for...". The other option is "get is all and hang the expense". That is not an unreasonable approach - puts the strain on your wallet and takes it off your mind.
--
Alan
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12-29-2015, 08:07 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Seatac, Washington
Trailer: "The Trailer", 2nd Gen 21' & a 2017 Tundra CrewMax in Blazing Blue Pearl
Posts: 2,888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin
The Surge Protector is a good thing to have, but has nothing to do with solar.
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It's also good to have 'em at home.
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