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Old 08-25-2019, 08:16 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
For $105 US ea, you can get Sendel rims with free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/SENDEL-ALUMIN.../dp/B01ECMGHU8
Thanks - this helps, as it gives me both size I'd be looking for, and an example of possible aftermarket cost.
Continuing to weigh options - this is such a "vanity" decision vs a practical one, it comes pretty far down the "important" list.
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:21 PM   #22
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Not sure where you'll find a tire shop that will take your tires off ETI rims and mount them on rims you bought elsewhere for free.
Cost me $200 a year to mount my snows and remount my summer tires, and balance. I switched to all-weather tires.

And after consideration, I decided I really liked the white painted steel wheels I have. I like to stand out in a sea of shiny aluminum.
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:31 PM   #23
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Not sure where you'll find a tire shop that will take your tires off ETI rims and mount them on rims you bought elsewhere for free.
Cost me $200 a year to mount my snows and remount my summer tires, and balance. I switched to all-weather tires.

And after consideration, I decided I really liked the white painted steel wheels I have. I like to stand out in a sea of shiny aluminum.
More good food for thought, thanks.
My local shop mounts/balances tires for $16 apiece, last time I checked. (It's such a seasonal thing here in New England, rotating between winter and summer tires.) Will determine mount/balance cost and put that into the mix, in my decision. So Many Decisions (!)
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:40 PM   #24
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I remember the days of the build sheet. I decided to forego the shiny wheels and thought I'd get shiny wheels when it was time to buy new tires. Had to put the brakes on the budget somewhere. I'll buy tires at the end of the year. I think I'm buying Goodyear Endurance... maybe new wheels too!
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Old 08-25-2019, 09:15 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
For $105 US ea, you can get Sendel rims with free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/SENDEL-ALUMIN.../dp/B01ECMGHU8

Interesting, here's the one I ordered when one got dinged up by a flat. I wonder if they are made by the same factory?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 08-29-2019, 01:14 PM   #26
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I remember the days of the build sheet. I decided to forego the shiny wheels and thought I'd get shiny wheels when it was time to buy new tires.
So, economy is winning, over vanity - I think I'll follow your lead, Donna, and let the original wheels play out their useful life, then shift to shiny wheels when a swap-out is needed.
Your comment about "remembering the days of the build sheet" hits home, big time! Leading to my next question:
Will I regret not getting the power tongue jack? Context: mostly will be traveling on my own (well, with a dog, but she isn't much help in this arena); mid-60s/ moderately strong female, manage on my small farm on my own. Used to doing. Horse trailer doesn't have power tongue jack, but rarely use it. My back IS getting a little tired of my being so cavalier about what I ask of it.
Willing to pay the extra few hundred $$ if folks think I'd really be glad of it. Thank you!
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Old 08-29-2019, 01:33 PM   #27
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i didn't have the power tongue jack for my 17B and it was fine (also in my 60s with horses). I think its a nice to have item for the 17 but not essential -not hard to use the crank.
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Old 08-29-2019, 01:40 PM   #28
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Quote:
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So, economy is winning, over vanity - I think I'll follow your lead, Donna, and let the original wheels play out their useful life, then shift to shiny wheels when a swap-out is needed.
Your comment about "remembering the days of the build sheet" hits home, big time! Leading to my next question:
Will I regret not getting the power tongue jack? Context: mostly will be traveling on my own (well, with a dog, but she isn't much help in this arena); mid-60s/ moderately strong female, manage on my small farm on my own. Used to doing. Horse trailer doesn't have power tongue jack, but rarely use it. My back IS getting a little tired of my being so cavalier about what I ask of it.
Willing to pay the extra few hundred $$ if folks think I'd really be glad of it. Thank you!
If you are planning on using a WDH, then definitely get the power jack. That's a lot of cranking to hook up /disconnect without one.

Save your cranking arm for the stabilizer jacks!

Of course, it's not hard to add one later - power for the jack comes from the 7 pin junction box on the trailer tongue.
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Old 08-29-2019, 01:53 PM   #29
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I'm not keen on the noise from the power jack ( nails on a blackboard ), but the jacking required to install the WDH bars is considerable.

I've been tempted to replace the hand crank.
I also might be more inclined to use my Sherline tongue scale if all I had to do was press a button.
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Old 08-29-2019, 01:55 PM   #30
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Whichever wheel you get, I’d recommend getting a 1/2 drive torque wrench, 6 inch extension and 13/16 socket to check the lug nuts after the first day towing and agin in another couple days. I like 95’ft lbs. a cheap but adequate wrench can be purchased at harbor freight for $20 or less or perhaps you can borrow one and buy your own later. If the weather goes to Hell, you can drop down to I 80 along the way and go east from there. Chicago is usually not that bad from 10 am to 2 pm weekdays and on Sunday till later in the day. The Indiana turnpike is a toll road that’s worth the money instead of I90 across Michigan. Fewer trucks and better road. US 20 across north central Iowa is almost all 4 Lane and a lot less busy than I90 across Minnesota or I80 across Iowa.

Just my $.02.
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I picked up my 21 on the 13th and spent 2 nights at the Lynden KOA. Took their advise and torqued the wheel nuts. Each took better than a full turn to get to 95lb.

I'm assuming they where torqued to 95lb at ETI. Seems a bit loose to only move from ETI to Lynden.

Did it again at 200 and 300mi. No movement at all.
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:01 PM   #31
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That's why they say to torque aluminum wheels again shortly after installation. I have to take my RAV back to Kal Tire the day after installation of new tires.
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:14 PM   #32
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I picked up my 21 on the 13th and spent 2 nights at the Lynden KOA. Took their advise and torqued the wheel nuts. Each took better than a full turn to get to 95lb.
I'm assuming they where torqued to 95lb at ETI. Seems a bit loose to only move from ETI to Lynden.
Did it again at 200 and 300mi. No movement at all.
Good to know - thanks.
Torque wrench, 6" extender and socket are high on my list of "must haves".
Will be diligent about checking in first few hundred miles, plan to camp at 2 places in WA before heading east to NH.
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:18 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
If you are planning on using a WDH, then definitely get the power jack. That's a lot of cranking to hook up /disconnect without one.
Save your cranking arm for the stabilizer jacks!
Getting the E-2 by Fastway Sway Control and WDH. I don't think it requires "cranking". Am I wrong?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Of course, it's not hard to add one later - power for the jack comes from the 7 pin junction box on the trailer tongue.
helpful to know could do relatively easily afterwards - wasn't sure about this. May just go with hand crank, see if seems manageable.
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:19 PM   #34
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i didn't have the power tongue jack for my 17B and it was fine (also in my 60s with horses). I think its a nice to have item for the 17 but not essential -not hard to use the crank.
Yup - with what you and others have said, am leaning toward "conservative", with option to add power jack later. Thank you!
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:35 PM   #35
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The WDH bars are much easier to install if you jack up the hitch. So, you will back up to the hitch, lower the hitch onto the ball, latch it, jack up the hitch ( lifting the suspension at the rear of the tow vehicle ), install the bars, hook up the chains from the bars to trailer frame and lower the hitch all the way.

When unhitching, you want to be straight and level. You will jack up the hitch, lifting the rear of the tow vehicle, unhook the bars, lower the hitch, unlatch it, raise the hitch off the ball, drive the tow vehicle forward and then lower or raise the hitch to level the trailer.


I unhooked once with the trailer on my slightly sloped driveway and the tow on the road. I used the provided pipe to unhook the chains and the force drove the pipe into my driveway. I'm very glad my foot wasn't in the way.
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:49 PM   #36
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The WDH bars are much easier to install if you jack up the hitch. So, you will back up to the hitch, lower the hitch onto the ball, latch it, jack up the hitch ( lifting the suspension at the rear of the tow vehicle ), install the bars, hook up the chains from the bars to trailer frame and lower the hitch all the way.

When unhitching, you want to be straight and level. You will jack up the hitch, lifting the rear of the tow vehicle, unhook the bars, lower the hitch, unlatch it, raise the hitch off the ball, drive the tow vehicle forward and then lower or raise the hitch to level the trailer.

I unhooked once with the trailer on my slightly sloped driveway and the tow on the road. I used the provided pipe to unhook the chains and the force drove the pipe into my driveway. I'm very glad my foot wasn't in the way.
Gotcha. Appreciate the 'guided tour', hadn't known about the up/down/up/down process involved in hitching AND unhitching.
And, your cautionary tale is duly noted ---
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:49 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
The WDH bars are much easier to install if you jack up the hitch. So, you will back up to the hitch, lower the hitch onto the ball, latch it, jack up the hitch ( lifting the suspension at the rear of the tow vehicle ), install the bars, hook up the chains from the bars to trailer frame and lower the hitch all the way.

When unhitching, you want to be straight and level. You will jack up the hitch, lifting the rear of the tow vehicle, unhook the bars, lower the hitch, unlatch it, raise the hitch off the ball, drive the tow vehicle forward and then lower or raise the hitch to level the trailer.


I unhooked once with the trailer on my slightly sloped driveway and the tow on the road. I used the provided pipe to unhook the chains and the force drove the pipe into my driveway. I'm very glad my foot wasn't in the way.
When I hitched my new trailer for the first time I had to move the TV forward a fraction so the locking lever would full engage in the down position.

Same when I unhitched so it would release. Probably loosen up with use
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:52 PM   #38
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When I hitched my new trailer for the first time I had to move the TV forward a fraction so the locking lever would full engage in the down position.
Same when I unhitched so it would release. Probably loosen up with use
Familiar with this sort of jockeying around, from using my horse trailer - and even the smaller utility and boat trailers I mess about with. Thanks.
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:59 PM   #39
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I'm not keen on the noise from the power jack ( nails on a blackboard ), but the jacking required to install the WDH bars is considerable.

I've been tempted to replace the hand crank.
I also might be more inclined to use my Sherline tongue scale if all I had to do was press a button.
Ok, now that I realize your set-up is similar to what mine will be, I'm veering toward adding power jack to build sheet. Despite the noise.
If having WDH makes for significantly more physical work hitching/unhitching, I can picture myself just deciding NOT unhitch when I really know I want to/should, etc. So, to avoid some of my own less stellar traits, perhaps a little electrical "lift" would be just the thing. Good for resale, too, right?!
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Old 08-29-2019, 03:14 PM   #40
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Ok, now that I realize your set-up is similar to what mine will be, I'm veering toward adding power jack to build sheet. Despite the noise.
If having WDH makes for significantly more physical work hitching/unhitching, I can picture myself just deciding NOT unhitch when I really know I want to/should, etc. So, to avoid some of my own less stellar traits, perhaps a little electrical "lift" would be just the thing. Good for resale, too, right?!
Escape option price for Lippert power tongue jack - $295 CAN, 222 USD

Same Lippert power tongue jack - $230 CAN, 173 USD
https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-28531.../dp/B00JMHHF9Q

Installation is three bolts and one wire connected to the 7 pin junction box located just behind the propane tanks.

You decide.
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