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Old 08-29-2019, 05:23 PM   #41
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When I hitched my new trailer for the first time I had to move the TV forward a fraction so the locking lever would full engage in the down position.

Same when I unhitched so it would release. Probably loosen up with use
Forgot to mention. Chock the forward movement of the trailer wheel so it doesn't move the same fraction as the TV
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Old 08-29-2019, 06:17 PM   #42
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Of course you will need a jack on the trailer when you pick it up.
Is it worth $50 to you to remove the old one and install a new one?
Isn't to me. With all that will be going on that day, I'd rather be able to hitch up and go.
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:08 PM   #43
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Escape option price for Lippert power tongue jack - $295 CAN, 222 USD

Same Lippert power tongue jack - $230 CAN, 173 USD
https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-28531.../dp/B00JMHHF9Q

Installation is three bolts and one wire connected to the 7 pin junction box located just behind the propane tanks.

You decide.
Great info - thank you. Great to have these numbers, along with what Glen says on next post.
Am adding power jack to build sheet -- because of the small price difference, and largely because of the convenience/ease factor. Having never pulled/had a rig like this before (as in, ANY travel trailer, EVER!), want to keep things as simple as I can.
Had thought about aluminum wheels, resisting those for now. The power jack seems like a good "trade". Aluminum wheels can be on the next round.
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:09 PM   #44
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Of course you will need a jack on the trailer when you pick it up.
Is it worth $50 to you to remove the old one and install a new one?
Isn't to me. With all that will be going on that day, I'd rather be able to hitch up and go.
Per my last post, thank you - weighing cost/benefit, have added power jack to build sheet. Pleased.
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:14 PM   #45
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Forgot to mention. Chock the forward movement of the trailer wheel so it doesn't move the same fraction as the TV
Good point, duly noted.
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Old 08-29-2019, 09:28 PM   #46
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The height of the power jack means I am able to open the rear hatch of my highlander when I am hitched up. Maybe someone with your same tow vehicle can say if the tailgate can open without hitting the crank jack. Just in case you consider changing back on your order sheet.

I have the E2 wdh and I am very happy with it
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Old 08-29-2019, 09:36 PM   #47
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The height of the power jack means I am able to open the rear hatch of my highlander when I am hitched up. Maybe someone with your same tow vehicle can say if the tailgate can open without hitting the crank jack. Just in case you consider changing back on your order sheet.
Another factor to consider - revealing (yet again) what a novice I am in the "sport" of travel trailer hauling and camping, and how much I have to learn. Fun learning, I'm all for it!

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I have the E2 wdh and I am very happy with it
Glad to hear you like the E2. Seems like a nice add-on, though with my Tundra, some might think it unnecessary. As I get older, I think more about being safer ---
Thanks!
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:20 PM   #48
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Another factor to consider - revealing (yet again) what a novice I am in the "sport" of travel trailer hauling and camping, and how much I have to learn. Fun learning, I'm all for it!



Glad to hear you like the E2. Seems like a nice add-on, though with my Tundra, some might think it unnecessary. As I get older, I think more about being safer ---
Thanks!
I have the Husky Centerline TS and very happy with it. It is better made that the E2 and costs about 1/2 as much.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:46 PM   #49
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Per my last post, thank you - weighing cost/benefit, have added power jack to build sheet. Pleased.
The due date for my 17B is October 17th, and because I'm already "of a certain age," I added the power jack. After all, I hope to be RV'ing for another 10-15 years, and I expect that cranking can get rather old!

You'll feel such relief when that build sheet's done! I have one regret - not adding the outside shower - but that error hasn't dampened my enthusiasm. I made the final payment on Sojourner this week and am looking forward to what's waiting round the corner - as I know you are!

Best wishes!
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Old 08-29-2019, 11:02 PM   #50
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I tow a 17b w a 4runner without wdh or sway bars. Pulls nicely but I did add air bags to rear tires to decrease the up & down motion called porpoising. Works well for me after towing 27000 miles. Jusgt a thought for you to consider.
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Old 08-29-2019, 11:17 PM   #51
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The power jack makes it easy to hook up
The hitch without a lot of effort. The jack
has the ability to pull up the rear end taking the tension off and allowing hookup. Then when the jack post is retracted the tension comes on to the hitch and you’re ready to roll after you plug in the lights and snap the emergency cable on the hitch.
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Old 08-29-2019, 11:26 PM   #52
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I tow a 17b w a 4runner without wdh or sway bars. Pulls nicely but I did add air bags to rear tires to decrease the up & down motion called porpoising. Works well for me after towing 27000 miles. Jusgt a thought for you to consider.
That may work, but I was told that the air bags were incompatible with the WDH, so you may want to ask about that if you're considering it. Take with a grain of salt, as I'm a newbie.
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Old 08-30-2019, 12:12 AM   #53
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Will I regret not getting the power tongue jack?
Haha, I think about a power jack on my 17B every time I have to crank it and I talk myself out of it every time! I call it good arm exercise. I think I have a bigger problem with patience rather than the strength to hand crank. It takes a lot of turns sometimes which takes a while and that's not comfortable when it's humid and 90 degrees out.
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Old 08-30-2019, 12:18 AM   #54
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Wheel change sockets

Harbor Freight has a set of ˝" drive sockets and an extension that are just the ticket for tire changing. They're even in the Labor day sales catalog.


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Old 08-30-2019, 12:19 AM   #55
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Haha, I think about a power jack on my 17B every time I have to crank it and I talk myself out of it every time! I call it good arm exercise. I think I have a bigger problem with patience rather than the strength to hand crank. It takes a lot of turns sometimes which takes a while and that's not comfortable when it's humid and 90 degrees out.

All true. Which is why I've not invested in a power jack.

Alternative is to get the power jack and join a gym.
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Old 08-30-2019, 02:30 AM   #56
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We have a 19 , 2013 . We started out without the power jack . Then in 2018 bought and installed the power jack . The kids keep telling us once you have one , you will really like it . Have to admit we do. Makes jacking up the front a little easier . But not having the the power jack isn’t too bad either and worked fine .
We have a Ford 250 , long bed . We don’t have any tow bars or weight distribution, the trailer for us rides great . Even on the road semi ‘s pass us and the trailer holds nice and steady .
Getting the power jack later is very easy install and lots to pick from . Pat
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Old 08-30-2019, 06:30 AM   #57
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That may work, but I was told that the air bags were incompatible with the WDH, so you may want to ask about that if you're considering it. Take with a grain of salt, as I'm a newbie.
I have remote controlled air bags on my F250 and I just put them at the low position(10 lbs) when using a WDH. All is nice and level.
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Old 08-30-2019, 10:20 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
We have a 19 , 2013 . We started out without the power jack . Then in 2018 bought and installed the power jack . The kids keep telling us once you have one , you will really like it . Have to admit we do. Makes jacking up the front a little easier . But not having the the power jack isn’t too bad either and worked fine. Getting the power jack later is very easy install and lots to pick from
Thanks - I'm being easy on myself, have added it to Build Sheet. Easier to face the cost when bundled in with the 10's of thousands I'm already dealing with!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
We have a Ford 250 , long bed . We don’t have any tow bars or weight distribution, the trailer for us rides great . Even on the road semi ‘s pass us and the trailer holds nice and steady. Pat
I'm probably overbuilding, getting WDH, as my Tundra (2011 5.7L doublecab) is pretty staunch. However, have always been disconcerted by semi drafts when pulling horses in trailer, so am going conservative on this, just springing for the danged hitch (!).
Thanks to Tom (tdf-texas), I'm now considering getting the Husky Centerline TS instead of ETI's E2.
If I do the latter, can I bring it to orientation and they'd help me set it up? (WDHs don't look like something ETI would install "ahead of time"...)
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Old 08-30-2019, 10:36 AM   #59
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Thanks - I'm being easy on myself, have added it to Build Sheet. Easier to face the cost when bundled in with the 10's of thousands I'm already dealing with!


I'm probably overbuilding, getting WDH, as my Tundra (2011 5.7L doublecab) is pretty staunch. However, have always been disconcerted by semi drafts when pulling horses in trailer, so am going conservative on this, just springing for the danged hitch (!).
Thanks to Tom (tdf-texas), I'm now considering getting the Husky Centerline TS instead of ETI's E2.
If I do the latter, can I bring it to orientation and they'd help me set it up? (WDHs don't look like something ETI would install "ahead of time"...)
I have the Tundra as well but with a 21'. Honestly, with a 17' and the Tundra, the WDH is more to stop the pogo bouncing from the single axle than it is for sway. Tongue weight is the critical factor to prevent sway and you should be fine with the 17'.

That said, you can have the WDH installed before you go to Chilliwack by anyone with some mechanical skills and a socket set. Just a couple of bolts to install - most of the Husky WDH comes pre assembled.

The only part that will need to be installed at Chilliwack is the brackets that mount to the trailer tongue. That part Escape should able to do or you can do it yourself if you can use a wrench. There are two bolts to tighten for each bracket and locating them on the tongue is simple.
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Old 08-30-2019, 10:39 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
The power jack makes it easy to hook up
The hitch without a lot of effort. The jack
has the ability to pull up the rear end taking the tension off and allowing hookup. Then when the jack post is retracted the tension comes on to the hitch and you’re ready to roll after you plug in the lights and snap the emergency cable on the hitch.
Iowa Dave
Sweet - looking forward to making that part easier. Not getting any stronger, these days, and the ol' "brute force" method is not working so well.
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