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Old 02-01-2017, 02:42 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Dave, If one wanted to mount the inside unit of a mini heat pump in the rear upper cabinet, as you mentioned, is there some reason why you would NOT want to mount the outside condensing unit just outside the rear wall on the rear bumper? ETI says the rear bumper will support 150 pounds. Surely that outside unit isn't heavier than that, is it? That would put the two units within 5 or 6 feet of each other, almost directly above and below each other, and greatly reduce refrigerant line losses. Electrical power would be nearby for both units that way. And you could keep your utility box on the front or move your bikes to the tongue if you carry them outside. Am I missing something important related to installation?
War Eagle, I indicated that provisions could be made on the rear. The front is just my personal preference but you raise some valid points that are relevant to models other than 19. Obviously the 5.0TA would need to be on the rear by default. I see no technical reason that it cannot be done.

Refrigerant lines:
I think the refrigerant line minimum is 7' but by the time you come across from the unit in the cabinet, down the corner, through the floor and out to the condensing unit you would be fine. It would be very similar to what I did at the front of our 19. I started with a 15' line set and cut off a few feet and reflared. (If one chose to do the front of a 21 the maximum refrigerant line length is 66' so that would work too)

Weight/Bikes:
The outdoor unit on the Fujitsu 9,000 BTUH model 9RL2 that I used is 64 lbs (69 lbs if you opted for 12,000 BTUH) but you would also have a platform of some sort. If it was done tight to the trailer next to the tire you may still be able to furnish a bike rack (within weight limits and considering tongue weight of course). It would likely block some of the tail light so the upper lights would be advisable, but as I understand that is standard with the new light configuration with the exception of the 17 due to width not requiring it.

Power:
Good point about the power. With trailers that have the power center in the rear it would be much easier with the condenser at the rear. Otherwise you have to get a dedicated line all the way to the front. The indoor unit is powered from the outdoor unit so that also doesn't need to be run from the front.

This idea on the rear may be more appealing for those that won't compromise on the front storage box. We still have storage, we just did a Stowaway box on the rear.

I would love to see someone else take this on.
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:09 PM   #62
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I want to comment on everyone's helpful, super helpful input and I will soon, but really quickly before I forget, is there a reason the fan and AC can't be flip flopped?

I'm contorting next to my a sleeping son to type without waking him. If I'm not prompt to answer everyone it's no less helpful and I'm no less grateful!
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:11 PM   #63
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I think you may want to ask Escape about that. Maybe a weight issue...
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:44 PM   #64
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I feel like I should put a deposit before we lose the chance.
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:16 PM   #65
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... is there a reason the fan and AC can't be flip flopped?
As someone else mentioned, your best answer will come from ETI. But if I had to guess, in addition to the weight balance issue, the rear location is likely structurally more sound to support the weight on the roof compared to the forward location where the door is located. But that's just a guess. E-mail Sarah at ETI, and she'll get an answer for you.
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:22 PM   #66
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... I think the refrigerant line minimum is 7' ...
Why a 7' minimum? Does that relate to line capacity for compressing refrigerant? If so, seems like the line could be coiled to achieve 7' without actually stretching out 7' linearly. Or is it something else? I'd love to see someone try using an electric motor to power an automotive-type A/C system to cool a camper. Lots of technical details to work out, but it seems like it could be much quieter.
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Old 02-01-2017, 08:39 PM   #67
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Why a 7' minimum? Does that relate to line capacity for compressing refrigerant? If so, seems like the line could be coiled to achieve 7' without actually stretching out 7' linearly. Or is it something else?
Had to dig through some literature but the actual minimum line set quoted by Fujitsu is 10'. I don't know the exact technical reason but my guess is there is a range of line set calculated by the design engineers to work properly with the amount of refrigerant that is pre-charged in the condenser (1lb 7oz of R-410A for the 9RL2). This range is actually min 10' to max 49' with the pre-charge. Can go to 66' but would need to add refrigerant. The Fujitsu website FAQ's talk about potential noise/vibration if minimum line set is not used. Yes, extra line could just be coiled somewhere with a decent radius that avoids kinking the lines. I had small coils under the trailer with my 15' line set until I decided to straighten, cut the lines and reflare. I think I have ~11 to 12' of line set and its working great. Remember these things are designed for homes with evaporator typically mounted high on a wall and condenser on the ground. It would be rare that a homeowner would have less than 10' of line set. Usually need much more.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:04 PM   #68
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I was wondering if anyone was going to comment on my comment.

Yeah, I called the guy in the room next to me "Oh Baby, Oh Baby" as that's what she was calling him. The front desk found it very funny and said I wasn't the only one complaining about the occupants. I also asked if she was a "short term" visitor.
it certainly made one laugh and was going to comment....that you as well are a freespirit!
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:17 PM   #69
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I feel like I should put a deposit before we lose the chance.
also keep your cash ready...these trailers come up now and then for various reasons, some even new at the factory unclaimed...and they sell quick!...so know what options you want so you can quickly make a decision as to how close the one for sale is to what you actually want...if you have a deposit at the factory already it might make securing one that is being sold unclaimed new at the factory that much easier...but the deposit may present a problem (as it is not entirely refundable) for a trailer being sold by a third party.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:44 PM   #70
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Also keep in mind that the exchange rate with the Canadian dollar (CAD) is hanging pretty steady around 75-77% of the U.S. dollar (USD). Very favorable to those of us in the US of A. So a 21' that lists for $33,000 CAD is currently around $25,000 USD. But in this crazy time, who knows what the future holds....
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Old 02-02-2017, 05:41 AM   #71
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Also keep in mind that the exchange rate with the Canadian dollar (CAD) is hanging pretty steady around 75-77% of the U.S. dollar (USD). Very favorable to those of us in the US of A. So a 21' that lists for $33,000 CAD is currently around $25,000 USD. But in this crazy time, who knows what the future holds....
We hear all around us "these are times with lots of uncertainty" and that is true, but when has the future ever been certain? Best to live each day with joy and thanksgiving, and look forward to tomorrow but who knows for certain? (Sorry, I must be feeling philosophical this morning.)
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Old 02-02-2017, 05:45 AM   #72
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Now that I said that I will say that we bought FXC about a year ago when the exchange rate was even a little better than now, and will use it to pay for the trailer soon. Glad it has worked out, but who knew?
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