19' core wiring schematic

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by gklott

Figured out this entry break situation, as shown in this image.

So your trailer wiring is this circuit without the terminal fuse. Great that you didn't have to change the wiring! Still a little odd with all the wire gauge changes.

[gklott]

There is the 200A fuse in the #2 wiring direct to inverter, but there is nothing in the other battery wiring. I measured, and the #8 wire distance is less than the 1.5 meters from battery to this breaker.

73/gus

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by gklott

There is the 200A fuse in the #2 wiring direct to inverter, but there is nothing in the other battery wiring. I measured, and the #8 wire distance is less than the 1.5 meters from battery to this breaker.

73/gus

Accidentally short that #8 to ground and watch it melt and burn. That's why I keep preaching to add the terminal fuse.

Glad you figured out the wiring - for a while, it really wasn't making much sense based on the wire gauges. You would assume that the larger gauge wire would be the ones carrying the higher currents.

Oh well, you know what they say about assume. https://www.goodreads.com/quotes/192...ppens-when-you

Hope to see you at Pineknot! There's going to be a number of Escapes there and of course, Karl from Escape. You're only 4 hours away!
http://www.mfrvg.com/pineknot

[gklott]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Accidentally short that #8 to ground and watch it melt and burn. That's why I keep preaching to add the terminal fuse.

Though not recommended practice by CSA or RVIA codes, agree on using battery terminal fuses.

In my upgraded DC system, on each series pair of LifeLine GPL-4CTs, the +12V terminal has a BlueSea MRBF terminal fuse block with 200A fuse. These two battery pairs combine in parallel at a BlueSea Class T fuse block with a 250A fuse. All the wiring now on the batteries and to/from the 12V DC power busbars is Ancor 2/0 boat cable, upgraded from the #8 and #2 ETI OEM wiring.

My new 2/0 cables have the proper 5/16" or 3/8" lugs, unlike the ETI OEM wiring that had all 3/8" lugs on the #2 and #8 wiring. Also, I use Ancor heat shrink and BlueSea CableCap stud insulators.

I do not want to accidentally create a short anywhere in the DC or AC systems.

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Hope to see you at Pineknot! There's going to be a number of Escapes there and of course, Karl from Escape.

Must miss the rally. Y'all have fun.

73/gus

[MyronL]

For what it's worth, here's a clue to how the porch light wires probably go.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by MyronL

For what it's worth, here's a clue to how the porch light wires probably go.

Ah, I loved the airplane door! But I will (and did) go for the fridge upgrade instead. With a certain loss of that panache, to be sure.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by MyronL

For what it's worth, here's a clue to how the porch light wires probably go.

In our case the wires were fine it was the lamp that was the problem . The lamps are very cheap . Keep looking for better lamps that don’t cost a arm and a leg . Pat

[ChuckBC]

I am using Tom's approach to my upgrading my 2017 E19 and at this time I stripped away the solar and inverter yet to be installed in my attached diagram . Reviewing past threads I think I'm up to date and understand the rational for getting to this layout.

So far upgraded wiring size and sorted out grounds, added Blue Seas main switch, 6 awg Maxi fuse holder. Yet to be done is the separation of emergency brake from 7 pin /tongue jack in the frame electrical box. At this point I need assistance into the best practise for the connection and routing of the power wires.

It appears that in the electrical frame box, the power wire terminal is common for the emergency brake/ 7 pin/ tongue jack and input trailer power. To upgrade I would leave the 7 pin/tongue jack connected in the box with a 8 awg wire running inside to dinette box where it connects to the 40 amp input terminal breaker the output to my new Blue Seas main switch output terminal. The remaining black emergency brake connection is now to go to direct power and the 60 amp battery maxi fuse. This is where I am a bit uncertain on the wiring/routing? Do I increase the length of the existing removed brake wire and run to the input side of my Blue seas switch? The brake brake has 2 smaller gauge black wires and how can I sort this out.

I also see that the frame electrical box is grounded to frame for negative connection. Should this be left or should I take it to my new battery negative to converter buss which has the only dedicated ground frame wire?

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by ChuckBC

I am using Tom's approach to my upgrading my 2017 E19 and at this time I stripped away the solar and inverter yet to be installed in my attached diagram . Reviewing past threads I think I'm up to date and understand the rational for getting to this layout.

So far upgraded wiring size and sorted out grounds, added Blue Seas main switch, 6 awg Maxi fuse holder. Yet to be done is the separation of emergency brake from 7 pin /tongue jack in the frame electrical box. At this point I need assistance into the best practise for the connection and routing of the power wires.

It appears that in the electrical frame box, the power wire terminal is common for the emergency brake/ 7 pin/ tongue jack and input trailer power. To upgrade I would leave the 7 pin/tongue jack connected in the box with a 8 awg wire running inside to dinette box where it connects to the 40 amp input terminal breaker the output to my new Blue Seas main switch output terminal. The remaining black emergency brake connection is now to go to direct power and the 60 amp battery maxi fuse. This is where I am a bit uncertain on the wiring/routing? Do I increase the length of the existing removed brake wire and run to the input side of my Blue seas switch? The brake brake has 2 smaller gauge black wires and how can I sort this out.

I also see that the frame electrical box is grounded to frame for negative connection. Should this be left or should I take it to my new battery negative to converter buss which has the only dedicated ground frame wire?

For the emergency brake circuit, I ran a new wire from the emergency brake wire in 7-pin connection box back to the input side of my battery disconnect switch with the existing 7-pin /jack wire connected to the output side of the same switch.

For the ground in the 7-pin connection box - you basically have two power circuits on your TV / trailer. One powered by the battery in your TV and another powered by the battery in the trailer.

The ground in the 7-pin connection box is the return path for things that are powered from the TV on the trailer (brakes, brake lights, turn signals, running lights, etc.) that have a return path through the trailer frame. Power for those devices come from the TV battery down through the 7-pin connector through wiring to the device and then returns through the trailer frame up through the 7-pin connection box ground connection and back through the 7-pin ground wiring to the negative TV battery terminal.

Devices that are powered by the trailer battery (emergency brakes, electric jack, etc.) use the ground path through the frame to the ground connection on the converter and then back to the trailer battery negative terminal.

This is an odd way to do ground returns but is common in the industry - leave the ground in the 7-pin as it is.

[ChuckBC]

Tom,
I need clarification on splitting the brake/7 pin/tongue wiring to get to the respective main switch poles. Am I right that at the 1 stud in the connection box all 3 wires are connected with my present power wire to battery switch. What I thought is I can leave the 2 wires from 7 pin/tongue on this stud and run the new appropriate length 8awg 40 amp thermal fused line to the output of battery disconnect switch. Now is were I'm uncertain if I remove the present small gauge black wire for brake, attached to common stud, and now run it separately increasing gauge to 10awg onward to my input power side of battery disconnect switch?

Sorry for confusion but when I read above it appears I run 2 power lines, the 10awg plus 8 awg to this stud with the brake/7pin/tongue lines attached? Or do I remove brake wire ring lug and crimp on the added 10awg length of wire to input battery switch which doesn't seem best practise?