2 - Way Hot Water Tank (Has two power sources, Propane or 120V)

[Steve Clark]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

When I'm hooked up to shore power, the water heater is on most of the time on electric. The only time I can remember I've turned it off is when it's HOT outside. I promise I won't turn on the air conditioner and use the park's electric grid... oh wait, I don't have an air conditioner. Which one do you think is a bigger drain or 'waste' of electricity?

My, How you have changed, Donna! I hardly recognized you!

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

and my favorite, the SWDEL which adds the relay for remote electrical on/off switch.

Suburban SW6DEL Porcelain-Lined Steel Tank Water Heater-6 gal.

The SWDEL model allows an inside 12 volt DC switch as well as the outside 120 volt AC switch for the electric heating element. The inside 12 volt DC switch powers a relay which switches the 120 volt AC power to the heater.

Will ETI install this one?

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Will ETI install this one?

If Rease doesn't want to do it, it's easy to convert the SW6DE to a SW6DEL by adding the relay.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...itch-8535.html

and the replacement panel with the added electric water switch is here.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f3...k-11764-3.html
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...day-11959.html

[kstock11]

After 4 years of camping with my 19, I average 30 days per propane fill up and normally spend $6.00 to fill up. Don’t have the electric option. My habit is to turn hot water heater on before starting breakfast and dinner preparation and off when washing dishes for breakfast or dinner. Definitely a well designed system. One option I’m glad I omitted.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

At home, I have 2 X electric 55 gallon water heaters, one for the 2 baths and one for the kitchen/laundry. Each is on a timer, on at 4 am off at 7 am, on again at 4 pm and off again at 7 pm, so each is on 25% of the day.

I admire the diligence, but I'm unsure that the energy savings are meaningful. Although each water heater is only powered for a quarter of the day, it is not using just one-quarter of the energy. When the timer switches a heater on, the first thing that happens is that the thermostat turns the element on to bring the water temperature back up to the desired setting... which it would already be at if it had been left on.

Energy consumption of a tank-type water heater is the sum of two components:

1. energy to heat water from the supply temperature to the outlet temperature (depends on the supply temperature, thermostat setting, and amount of water used; not the holding time); and,
2. energy to replace heat lost to the tank's surroundings while holding

A timer only affects the second part, and doesn't even change that much for short periods as the water in the tank is hot and losing heat whether the heater is on or not. Replace lost heat as it is lost (by leaving the heater on) or replace lost heat just before you need hot water (timer or switch)... you're still replacing some lost heat.

In an RV, my only reason to switch the water heater off and back on during a stay would be to avoid the roaring noise of a propane burner when quiet is desired (such as overnight).

[sclifrickson]

We use both the propane and electric elements, depending on the circumstances, although almost never concurrently. Having options is good. We built our trailer to be as versatile as possible with that in mind. Go anywhere, anytime. For the most part.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I admire the diligence, but I'm unsure that the energy savings are meaningful.

In addition, maintained below 120F a hot water heater can become a breeding ground for Legionella. Higher temperatures are recommended, but only with the use of anti-scalding mechanisms.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

In addition, maintained below 120F a hot water heater can become a breeding ground for Legionella. Higher temperatures are recommended, but only with the use of anti-scalding mechanisms.

Do we know what the default temp is for the SW6DE? Is it adjustable? What’s the best way to test actual tank temp?

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

When I'm hooked up to shore power, the water heater is on most of the time on electric. The only time I can remember I've turned it off is when it's HOT outside. I promise I won't turn on the air conditioner and use the park's electric grid... oh wait, I don't have an air conditioner. Which one do you think is a bigger drain or 'waste' of electricity?

Same here. The only time I turn the electric side off is when I'm hooked up to a 20 amp pedestal & want to run the AC.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Dave Walter

Edit: One of the things that make usage of the electric a bit of a pain for me is that you have to go outside and open the hot water heater hatch to turn on/off the electric.

I bet you could remedy that lickety split with a switch inside.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Do we know what the default temp is for the SW6DE? Is it adjustable?

My understanding is that like similar units of other brands, it is not adjustable. There is a fixed thermostatic switch for each power source (propane and 120 V AC).

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Do we know what the default temp is for the SW6DE? Is it adjustable? What’s the best way to test actual tank temp?

Regarding risk of Legionella I was referring more to larger tanks in residential/commercial that have the potential to sit longer without use, but to answer your question the Suburban SW6D(E) is designed to maintain 130F and is not adjustable. The piping run is so short a measurement at the closest faucet should indicate tank temperature.

[Dave Walter]

Gotta save some mods for retirement.

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I bet you could remedy that lickety split with a switch inside.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Dave Walter

Gotta save some mods for retirement.

There's always more. My recent 6 week trip saw me add a couple dozen to the list I have yet to do. In the infamous words of my Great Uncle Ferd "It's no longer a hobby if it is finished".

[Eggscape]

Great feature to have the electric hot water heat. When not hooked up to power sometimes we just boil a pot of water on the stove to do the dishes...unless it is to hot in the trailer in that case we probably cooked dinner on the Colman and will boil the water outside.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

When not hooked up to power sometimes we just boil a pot of water on the stove to do the dishes...

We still do that sometimes too. Old habits die hard, plus it is quicker if you forget to turn the water heater on.

[JimHol58]

So when running off water from an outside source hose bib does the hot water tank fill automatically after you open the faucets and then it operates by on-demand? Do you light the water heater once you have water running freely from the faucets. Also, does the water pressure regulator go between the hose and the city water inlet on the trailer or does it go between the hose and the water source bib? Finally, where would I position my in-line water filter? Thanks, Jim

[cpaharley2008]

both the filter and pressure regulator should be at at the source so that your hose supply is protected. Once hooked up, you run the hot water until your water heater is filled, and water is coming out of the hot spigot, then you turn on the heat.

[ericw]

Originally Posted by JimHol58

So when running off water from an outside source hose bib does the hot water tank fill automatically after you open the faucets and then it operates by on-demand? Do you light the water heater once you have water running freely from the faucets. Also, does the water pressure regulator go between the hose and the city water inlet on the trailer or does it go between the hose and the water source bib? Finally, where would I position my in-line water filter? Thanks, Jim

1. As you know, make sure the hot water tank is filled before heating the water using any method (electric or propane). I do 3 things. First, I make sure the bypass switches are NOT on bypass. Second, I run the hot water until it comes out the hot water faucets. Third, (the only one that really matters if you wish to skip 1&2) I just quickly test the pressure relief valve to make sure water comes out (indicating water is actually in the tank). The random (not Escape) hot water heater picture below has the pressure relief valve circled.





2. In order from the water supply to the trailer, I personally put the water pressure regulator, filter, and then hose to trailer. I like to have minimum strain on the trailer side fittings and it keeps clean water in my hose.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by ericw

Third, (the only one that really matters if you wish to skip 1&2) I just quickly test the pressure relief valve to make sure water comes out (indicating water is actually in the tank).

I always have trouble with that recommendation. My belief is that any contaminants in the tank can cause it not to fully seat and remain drip free.

However there do seem to be a lot of folks that do it. But then there's been lot's of questions about dripping PRV's.

I don't find it onerous to open the hot water tap, let the system rid itself of air and then close the tap when water comes out. I know then that the hot water tank is full.

Ron