2 - Way Hot Water Tank (Has two power sources, Propane or 120V)

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I always have trouble with that recommendation. My belief is that any contaminants in the tank can cause it not to fully seat and remain drip free.

However there do seem to be a lot of folks that do it. But then there's been lot's of questions about dripping PRV's.

I don't find it onerous to open the hot water tap, let the system rid itself of air and then close the tap when water comes out. I know then that the hot water tank is full.

Ron

I kinda feel the same way. I don't think I have ever opened the pressure release cake on a hot water tank. Kinda like using a breaker as an on/off switch on a regular basis. Not what either was designed for.

[gbaglo]

What is the lever for then?

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

What is the lever for then?

To test it annually?

[ericw]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I always have trouble with that recommendation. My belief is that any contaminants in the tank can cause it not to fully seat and remain drip free.

However there do seem to be a lot of folks that do it. But then there's been lot's of questions about dripping PRV's.

I don't find it onerous to open the hot water tap, let the system rid itself of air and then close the tap when water comes out. I know then that the hot water tank is full.

Ron

I admit I agree with you and usually do the same thing. But I felt obligated to mention it since during orientation, Escape specifically said that the valve was the right way to check it. YMMV

[Ron in BC]

According to Watts it should be tested once a year.

"but frequent relief can build up natural mineral deposits on the valve seat, rendering the valve inoperative. "

"Valve lever must be tripped at least once a year to ensure that waterways are clear. "

Personally I've removed a lot of PVR's from tanks that I'm junking and throw them in my scrap brass box. OK, I'm cheap. If you saw the crap that accumulates in a tank you'd be resistant to letting it run over the valve seat. I never have and I've never had a a leaking PVR. Maybe I'm just lucky.

Ron

[JimHol58]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

both the filter and pressure regulator should be at at the source so that your hose supply is protected. Once hooked up, you run the hot water until your water heater is filled, and water is coming out of the hot spigot, then you turn on the heat.

So my hot water heater was working fine for the first two days and then on the third day the water heater red light came on indicating the hot water heater was no longer lit. Since we were leaving that day I didn't attempt to relight it. Any thoughts on why the red light would come on after things were working just fine for the first couple of days?

[sclifrickson]

Out of propane?

[JimHol58]

No it wasn't that.

[bdornbush]

Originally Posted by JimHol58

So my hot water heater was working fine for the first two days and then on the third day the water heater red light came on indicating the hot water heater was no longer lit. Since we were leaving that day I didn't attempt to relight it. Any thoughts on why the red light would come on after things were working just fine for the first couple of days?

I had a similar problem. It turned out to be that the connector to the water heater control board needed to be re-seated and then it worked. Reace told me at Osoyoos that almost always, a problem with the water heater is the control board.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I don't find it onerous to open the hot water tap, let the system rid itself of air and then close the tap when water comes out. I know then that the hot water tank is full.

Ron: Some that don’t understand their plumbing may not realize that water will still come out of the hot water side even with valves in bypass mode. Water heater won’t be filled. I believe that what you are saying is you know based on the large amount of air displaced that the hot water tank is filling. It sputters and spits for awhile. I get it. I just did this last Thursday. I still walked outside and cracked the P&T relief valve just to be 100% certain. Couldn’t help myself.

[Ron in BC]

That's a good point. Yes, if the by-pass is closed there'll be a few fizzes and burps and water will start coming out. When the hot water tank is filling there's fizzes and burbs coming out of the tap for a much, much longer time.

To each their own about tripping the lever. Just replaced a hot water tank this week. I pulled the PVR out. This is the crud just waiting to come out when the lever is tripped and maybe turn the tank into a chronic dripper.

Ron

[rubicon327]

Speaking of crud in the hot water heater....never bought one of those wands but set the garden hose nozzle on the jet setting and blasted it into the tank yesterday through the drain/anode opening. The gunk on the ground afterwards was incredible. Putting that task on a more regular schedule.

[cpaharley2008]

and you wonder why your pump does not clog more often.....

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

and you wonder why your pump does not clog more often.....

I think it is mostly the minerals that precipitate out of the water only at the higher temperatures in the hot water heater. Luckily most of this seems to just settle at the bottom. Also the pump is pumping water into the water heater so it should never see any of this crud even if some did leave the water heater.

[cpaharley2008]

pumping water into a tank of crud could result in some crud leaving the water heater and clogging your sink aerator also....

[sclifrickson]

When we bought or 2010 17B in 2015 the water system had been poorly (not at all) maintained. The water heater was full of the white chunky sediment, but it also came through all of the hot lines and clogged the faucet airators. Yuck.

[jmcrv2017]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

That's a good point. Yes, if the by-pass is closed there'll be a few fizzes and burps and water will start coming out. When the hot water tank is filling there's fizzes and burbs coming out of the tap for a much, much longer time.

To each their own about tripping the lever. Just replaced a hot water tank this week. I pulled the PVR out. This is the crud just waiting to come out when the lever is tripped and maybe turn the tank into a chronic dripper.

Ron

Thank you. That is good to know that even it’s bypass still hot water comes out... so if hot water tank is filling how long will it take? Like 30 seconds? 1 minute? 5 minutes?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by jmcrv2017

Thank you. That is good to know that even it’s bypass still hot water comes out... so if hot water tank is filling how long will it take? Like 30 seconds? 1 minute? 5 minutes?

Well not hot water . The cold water just loops around into the hot pipe. See graphic that I put together when we were troubleshooting the bypass in another thread. Just an estimation but the pump capacity is 3 gallons per minute (GPM) and the hot water tank is 6 gallons. So approximately 2 minutes to fill the tank.

[jmcrv2017]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Well not hot water . The cold water just loops around into the hot pipe. See graphic that I put together when we were troubleshooting the bypass in another thread. Just an estimation but the pump capacity is 3 gallons per minute (GPM) and the hot water tank is 6 gallons. So approximately 2 minutes to fill the tank.

Thanks for your explanation! The picture, how did you take(from where)? The tank in picture is water heater tank? I could not find the by pass valve.

[bdornbush]

Look under the rear bed.