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Old 03-23-2020, 03:25 PM   #1
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5.0 battery life

Just beat the Washington campground closure to preform a dry camp test run on my new rig.

Question: How long will the battery typically last while dry camping?

I ran bare minimums to test consumption rates and found the propane use to be excellent, but the battery died in less than 24 hours. Switched to my higher power backup battery and it lasted no longer. I do not have solar.


Only things powered were the furnace, the refer on propane, a few lights, and the radio. Upon returning home and verifying a fully charged battery I repeated the test and was able to get close to 30 hours before shutdown (same conditions but warmer weather). I was expecting a much longer battery life and question if I have an abnormally high current consumer (or a sneak circuit). Waiting on a new amp meter to start diagnostics.

Thoughts?

PS: No solar, single 12 volt deep cycle 800 CCA size
Spec stated max furnace draw is 4.8 amps. Old camper furnace was larger (8 amp max), same battery size, would last 3 days
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Old 03-23-2020, 03:32 PM   #2
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Bill,
Welcome to the forum. Before an answer can be obtained, additional information is needed. What batteries do you have and what are you operating?
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Old 03-23-2020, 03:35 PM   #3
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Solar panel and dual 6 volts batteries will last you almost indefinitely as by the mid morning the solar has replenished the batteries. Why did you skip the solar but got 2x12v battiest?
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Old 03-23-2020, 03:36 PM   #4
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If you look at your manuals for the furnace, it will tell you the amp draw. The refer on propane and led lights are minimal.
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Old 03-23-2020, 03:42 PM   #5
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Without knowing the run time on the furnace (the largest draw of the items you listed) it is impossible to tell how long a single 12V (or, for that matter, a pair of 6V) batteries will last. Many have stretched out a single battery (90 amp hours or so) for 2-3 days of dry camping with minimal furnace use, while others have only made a day before the battery hit 50% (as low as you to should regularly draw it down).

Your furnace probably draws around 3 amps while running. If it ran 50% of the time, a 90 amp hour battery would be down to 50% in 15 hours. The rest of the stuff probably drew no more than 2 amps (probably less) but would have to be added to the furnace draw.
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Old 03-23-2020, 04:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safetybill View Post
...
if I have an abnormally high current consumer (or a sneak circuit). Waiting on a new amp meter to start diagnostics.
...
Sneaks - for one example - could be 12V tank heating pads in the ON position. They have no pilot light or any visible indication when in use, and a high drain.

An inexpensive multi-meter with a 10 to 20 Amp range would be oh-so-useful right now.

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Old 03-23-2020, 04:51 PM   #7
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Please give us more info, like your options you have, so that we can help you.....
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Old 03-23-2020, 04:59 PM   #8
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In my last trailer, which is the same size as the 5.0TA, I could get 3 days out of 2 group 24 batteries when camping in coldish weather with the furnace running, meaning under 50%. It's the reason I bought a generator. No such problem with the dual 6v batteries and fixed 160w solar.


I do believe my furnace used to suck more power then my Escape, but I've not looked at the amperage draw of the newer furnaces.
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Old 03-23-2020, 07:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safetybill View Post
Spec stated max furnace draw is 4.8 amps
Did you change out the furnace? The Atwood AFSAD12 or Dometic DFSAD12 (same furnace) used by Escape is half of what you state. It has an amp draw of only 2.4. Your number matches that of the DFSD20.
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Old 03-24-2020, 11:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Did you change out the furnace? The Atwood AFSAD12 or Dometic DFSAD12 (same furnace) used by Escape is half of what you state. It has an amp draw of only 2.4. Your number matches that of the DFSD20.
As shown in the table:
  • part of the difference is the higher airflow needed by the 20,000 BTU/hr DFSD20 (4.8 amps) versus the lower-output 12,000 BTU/hr DFSD12 (3.4 amps) - that's the number on the end - and
  • the rest of the difference is the power needed to push that air through ducts in the case of the DFSD12 (3.4 amps) versus the direct discharge only of the DFSAD12 (2.4 amps) - that's the "A" in the model code.
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Old 03-24-2020, 11:59 AM   #11
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Thanks to all for the replies thus far.
The only power significant option on my 5.o is the stereo (no tank heaters, no added batteries).
I have ordered a new ampmeter (mine died at the most opportune time).
Battery did drain to the point where the LED lights would not operate (that's a dead battery) in 24 hours. Stay tuned, I will post power readings once I get them, probably next week
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