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Old 05-27-2021, 02:43 PM   #41
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Thanks for the help Sean! I haven't decided for certain yet, but I'm considering removing the door frame to install the RFU9000.

Hey, I just noticed, there is a "Service Memo" for the RFU9000 on NovaKools site, that says:
The RFU9000 and RFU9009, RFU8220, RFU8229 and R1200 have the ventilation built into the front of the unit, down around the compressor base and grill. In most applications this is all that is required for ventilation. An exception would be, if the unit is installed in an enclosure that backs onto the outside wall, where the sun can cause very hot temperatures in behind the enclosure you may need to increase ventilation to allow the hot air to come out from behind the unit. This will improve the efficiency and minimize the run time .In this application a vent up above the unit would allow the hot air to escape.
The Memo is labeled "Very Hot Temperature Ventilation Information" on bottom of this page: https://www.novakool.com/rfu9000-1
The Memo itself is here: https://www.novakool.com/s/Ventilati...ional-2015.pdf

I'm in south Texas, so it definitely applies in my case. I'm not sure whether it would be better to vent the back to the outside or inside.
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Old 05-27-2021, 03:27 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richm View Post
Thanks for the help Sean! I haven't decided for certain yet, but I'm considering removing the door frame to install the RFU9000.

Hey, I just noticed, there is a "Service Memo" for the RFU9000 on NovaKools site, that says:
The RFU9000 and RFU9009, RFU8220, RFU8229 and R1200 have the ventilation built into the front of the unit, down around the compressor base and grill. In most applications this is all that is required for ventilation. An exception would be, if the unit is installed in an enclosure that backs onto the outside wall, where the sun can cause very hot temperatures in behind the enclosure you may need to increase ventilation to allow the hot air to come out from behind the unit. This will improve the efficiency and minimize the run time .In this application a vent up above the unit would allow the hot air to escape.
The Memo is labeled "Very Hot Temperature Ventilation Information" on bottom of this page: https://www.novakool.com/rfu9000-1
The Memo itself is here: https://www.novakool.com/s/Ventilati...ional-2015.pdf

I'm in south Texas, so it definitely applies in my case. I'm not sure whether it would be better to vent the back to the outside or inside.
That is why I had Escape leave the top vent in place, the vent they have in place for the standard propane fridge. With that vent in place there is lots of room for the hot air to escape.

I did visit the Novakool factory which is very close to where I live. I showed them what I was doing and they said that roof vent was more than enough.

We have been in some very hot places including Death Valley and the fridge performed perfectly. Initially we had the setting for the temperature too low and we froze our lettuce in the fridge compartment. For us a setting of 4 is perfect, above that it can freeze the fridge compartment, of course it depends on ambient temperature.
We did put in place a recommendation we saw on a forum for boaters. That was to put a piece of 1/2" dense foam insulation between the crisper drawer and the bottom of the fridge. Just gives a bit more insulation between the fridge and the freezer compartment. I just cut a piece of blue foam, painted it white and tucked it in. You can't even tell it is there.
The fridge performs flawlessly. Just like your fridge at home. One of the best things we did. Though I did add 4x100A lithium batteries to give me more available amperage just in case.
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Old 05-27-2021, 03:58 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Murry View Post
That is why I had Escape leave the top vent in place, the vent they have in place for the standard propane fridge. With that vent in place there is lots of room for the hot air to escape.

I did visit the Novakool factory which is very close to where I live. I showed them what I was doing and they said that roof vent was more than enough.

We have been in some very hot places including Death Valley and the fridge performed perfectly. Initially we had the setting for the temperature too low and we froze our lettuce in the fridge compartment. For us a setting of 4 is perfect, above that it can freeze the fridge compartment, of course it depends on ambient temperature.
We did put in place a recommendation we saw on a forum for boaters. That was to put a piece of 1/2" dense foam insulation between the crisper drawer and the bottom of the fridge. Just gives a bit more insulation between the fridge and the freezer compartment. I just cut a piece of blue foam, painted it white and tucked it in. You can't even tell it is there.
The fridge performs flawlessly. Just like your fridge at home. One of the best things we did. Though I did add 4x100A lithium batteries to give me more available amperage just in case.
Thanks for the guidance! I'll leave the vents installed, and plan for the foam insulation. I plan to build a 600Ah LiFePO4 battery to power radio gear as well.
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Old 05-27-2021, 04:39 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richm View Post
Thanks for the guidance! I'll leave the vents installed, and plan for the foam insulation. I plan to build a 600Ah LiFePO4 battery to power radio gear as well.
I did get Escape to delete the side wall vent. Figured one less hole for potential water ingress.
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Old 02-18-2024, 01:22 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by DaveBukacek View Post
Thanks for the input. We live in the PNW area and go over or are at elevation when camping. I heard that the gas may have issues at incline or elevation. Do you have any experience with that?
Fridge Defend may be a system to install on the adsorption refrigerator to answer the fire issue. https://www.arprv.com
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