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Old 03-27-2022, 01:15 PM   #1
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A couple of questions re charging, water?

Pics. First, did finally manage to get the anode back in by filling the water until water spilled out the tank and washed it clean (after cleaning with rag and wire brush to no avail).

But.. did not get to water coming out the top hot tank release valve (opened) before it was spilling back out the fresh tank fill valve. So my question is, how do I run that enough to get hot water when I want it? I don't really want the fresh tank full anyway. (IGNORE This part- I asked before and found the answer. But my question now is, is it preferable to fill through city water or to run the pump? Does the fresh have fill first if I fill by running the pump or do I just have to open the valve (and isn't that the same as running a faucet or do I need a hot faucet open?)

Second- picture of buttons above hot water tank in outside access area. They say reset. Reset what? Never noticed them before!

Third- checked water in batteries and found the positive terminal connection very corroded. Why

The good news- furnace started right up!
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Old 03-27-2022, 02:05 PM   #2
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1. There should be a check valve in the pump that prevents water going into the city water hookup from filling the fresh water tank. Yours may be stuck open. Try taping on the pump to see if it closes.

2. The resets are over temperature devices that generally do not need to be reset. One for electric and the other for propane. If either stops working, the resets are something to check. Pushing them will reset them.

3. It is likely that with the normal bouncing around, some battery acid has splashed out onto the top of the battery. That will cause the corrosion you photographed. A bad seal between the battery post & the case will also cause the problem. It can be cleaned with a wire brush & a paste made of water & baking soda, then rinsed with water. There are sprays that help prevent corrosion.
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Old 03-27-2022, 02:14 PM   #3
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Thanks. I filled the fresh tank first, not with the city water inlet. Just finished filling the hot water tank with the city water inlet. Hopefully all is good now.

Another electric question-when I plug in to shore power (through a surge protector and adapter) I see a spark. Is this because the batteries are connected to electric? Nothing is turned on in the trailer.
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Old 03-27-2022, 02:28 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Bobbie54 View Post
Thanks. I filled the fresh tank first, not with the city water inlet. Just finished filling the hot water tank with the city water inlet. Hopefully all is good now.

Another electric question-when I plug in to shore power (through a surge protector and adapter) I see a spark. Is this because the batteries are connected to electric? Nothing is turned on in the trailer.
That is normal. Then the system waits 2 minutes before allowing the electricity to flow to the trailer while the Progressive Industries EMS does its checking.
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Old 03-27-2022, 02:35 PM   #5
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If you are using an external Surge Protector, you might see a bit of a spark when plugging, even with the trailer's 30 amp main breaker off.

If you have the built in surge protector / EMS, if it is switched to the bypass position it will immediately close its relay, causing the trailer 120V system to immediately energize. The converter will draw enough to cause a spark, as will the water heater if you have the electric option and the outside switch is on.

If the bypass switch on the EMS is off, nothing should be energized until the built in delay times out. Escape has them set for around 80 seconds delay.

In any case, most campground pedestals have breakers that can (and should) be shut off before connecting your trailer. Arcing (the spark) will eventually pit & damage the trailer's 30 amp connector, plus is it far safer when standing on wet ground or in a puddle to have the campground breaker off when connecting the trailer.
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Old 03-27-2022, 02:40 PM   #6
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In any case, most campground pedestals have breakers that can (and should) be shut off before connecting your trailer. Arcing (the spark) will eventually pit & damage the trailer's 30 amp connector, plus is it far safer when standing on wet ground or in a puddle to have the campground breaker off when connecting the trailer.
Campgrounds do. My garage outlet does not. I could probably add one into the line, though. Or unplug from the wall first though it is kind of an inconvenient location so I usually don't unplug the extension cord.
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Old 03-27-2022, 09:56 PM   #7
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Thanks. I filled the fresh tank first, not with the city water inlet. Just finished filling the hot water tank with the city water inlet. Hopefully all is good now.
Just clarifying that you cannot fill the fresh water tank from the city water inlet. With the Escape design the only risk of overflowing the freshwater tank would be if the check valve integral to the pump failed. If this did happen water would fill the tank and it should come out of the tank vent line.
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Old 03-28-2022, 12:31 AM   #8
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I need to replace our water inlet plate, the pressurized city water fitting is mangled and leaks, a lot, so we just fill our tank and use the pump.
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