adding a solar panel to existing installation

[hondasaurus]

Hi

When I bought our Escape in 2019 we had included a solar panel then (170w).
How could I plug an additional panel to the existing one. I don't know yet if it will be a permanent one or a portable one?

What type of plug do I need to plug it permanently?

If I go for a portable one, could I run a cable from the roof to the fridge vent and have an outlet to plug the panel without having to climb on the roof?

I think that the actual converter can handle a second panel?

Thank for helping.

[pkgman51]

Did you get a response? What do you plan to do? I'm trying to understand how to do the same thing. Seems complicated.
Gary

[brroberts]

On my ‘21 E19 ETI used MC4 connectors on the roof panel. They just snap together, so as long as you don’t add so much Solar you overload the stock controller, you can add panels that are close to your existing panels’s voltages there. For portable, either use an external port on your trailer if you have it, or connect to your battery directly. If you add, make sure you use the existing controller or add a controller to your portable panel if it doesn’t have one. There are easy and complicated ways to do it depending on how efficient you want your solar to be, how much time you want to take, and how much you want to spend. There are several good resources such as AM Solar for example.

[brroberts]

I should have added, with a search here, there are lots of threads about doing this on this forum.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by hondasaurus

If I go for a portable one, could I run a cable from the roof to the fridge vent and have an outlet to plug the panel without having to climb on the roof?

I think that the actual converter can handle a second panel?

The pathway from the roof down through the fridge vent, down the cavity is an easy one. You can access the bottom end by opening the grill on the side. You could have a portable plug there if desired.

The converter isn't affected by the solar panel power. It's the solar controller that handles the panel output and most controllers are quite capable of handling the extra panel. Look at it and see how many amps it's rated for.

Ron

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by pkgman51

Did you get a response? What do you plan to do? I'm trying to understand how to do the same thing. Seems complicated.
Gary

Best thing is to decide first which way you want to go, rooftop or portable.
Both are possible but two different paths.

[Perry Butler]

Yes, you can add panels on your roof to your existing panel. I added three Renogy 100 watt panels to the 170 watt Go Power panel in parallel so there was no additional wiring needed to be fed through the roof and by keeping the VMP of the panels reasonably close only lost 7 watts, so 463 watts on the roof.

Our install was explained in this thread.

An excellent explaination of mixing panels is explained here.

For a portable you can add a Zamp/SAE plug to the rear of your camper.

My first advice is to first replace the GoPower PWM controller ETI supplied in 2019 with a Victron 100/30 MPPT controller for the roof top and use the GoPower controller for any portable (or just put it on a shelf.

My second piece of advice is to add a Victron BMV-712 Smart battery monitor that measures amp in and amps out to give a true reading of the state of your battery, as well as history of other items to see if something is wrong. Don't waste your money on a AiLi battery monitor that's nothing but a fancy meter.

My last piece of advice is "don't be cheap." You have how many thousands of dollars wrapped up in your trailer and tow vehicle, so a couple hundred extra expense is nothing to do it right.

Food for thought,

Perry

[hondasaurus]

Originally Posted by Perry Butler

Yes, you can add panels on your roof to your existing panel. I added three Renogy 100 watt panels to the 170 watt Go Power panel in parallel so there was no additional wiring needed to be fed through the roof and by keeping the VMP of the panels reasonably close only lost 7 watts, so 463 watts on the roof.

Our install was explained in this thread.

An excellent explaination of mixing panels is explained here.

For a portable you can add a Zamp/SAE plug to the rear of your camper.

My first advice is to first replace the GoPower PWM controller ETI supplied in 2019 with a Victron 100/30 MPPT controller for the roof top and use the GoPower controller for any portable (or just put it on a shelf.

My second piece of advice is to add a Victron BMV-712 Smart battery monitor that measures amp in and amps out to give a true reading of the state of your battery, as well as history of other items to see if something is wrong. Don't waste your money on a AiLi battery monitor that's nothing but a fancy meter.

My last piece of advice is "don't be cheap." You have how many thousands of dollars wrapped up in your trailer and tow vehicle, so a couple hundred extra expense is nothing to do it right.

Food for thought,

Perry

Thanks for you elaborate reply and lecture.

But my question to you is why change the existing controller?

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by hondasaurus

Thanks for you elaborate reply and lecture.

But my question to you is why change the existing controller?

The following is my personal opinion and experience. The GoPower controller is PWM and that was decent 10 or so years ago, but is old inefficient technology today. Not only will our Victron 100/30 MPPT controller outperform the GoPower PWM, but you can set the controller to the specific needs of your batteries, and better monitor your system if needed. With GoPower you only have three choices at best.

Our GoPower had issues getting to 100% full. When we switched to a Victron 100/30 it filled the batteries to 100% virtually every day. At best the GoPower got to 100% every other day, if that.

We boondock and want the best bang for our buck. We also have a Victron BMV-712 with readout and bluetooth to better observe wha’t happening, and when our WFCO decided to send 20.3 volts to destroy our AGM batteries it was easy to find the problem with the 712’s history. We haven’t needed a 120v charger going on four years now. We charge entirely with solar..

I also found out that ETI, in its infinite wisdom, ran the positive wire to the WFCO and the negative wire to the pile of grounds on the back of the WFCO, causing resistance and line loss. Solar should be run directly to the batteries for highest efficiency. It costs no more to run the wires to the battery than to the WFCO.

I also changed that pile of ground wires (eight piled on top of each other in our 5.0) to a proper bus connection. Before connecting the solar wires to the battery, the solar controller was always .2 to .3 volts higher than what we observed at the battery, indicating line loss. Once the wires were moved to the battery, that loss was eliminated.

I just give my opinion on the best practices. I didn’t do all the changes to our camper at one time, but over time. Choose wisely my friend.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Ooshkaboo]

Go Power is updating their product line starting in June, they have a very helpful customer support line.
I’ll be adding the MPPT controller then hooking my original controller up to the zamp port.

[Mike G]

If your 19' has the batteries in the front storage box, it's really simple to hook up a portable panel with a solar controller to the batteries using alligator clips. I have a 70W portable and a little weatherproof Morningstar SG-4 controller. I sacrificed an old extension cord and wired the two ends in between, so I can either plug them together directly to complete the circuit or I can add any length of ordinary extension cord (I carry a 25' and a 50') to get my panel out into the sun.

[hondasaurus]

Originally Posted by pkgman51

Did you get a response? What do you plan to do? I'm trying to understand how to do the same thing. Seems complicated.
Gary

Base on our camping experience and power usage with our original 12 volts deep cycle acid type 27 with 88 a/h, we were only in need of energy 2 times because the canopy, rainy weather and/or camping site orientation were non productive for the solar.

From my research and understanding, lithium was a no no since we need to upgrade the battery charging device (AC and DC) and solar controller. Also, since we camps during colder temperature, these battery need 120v to warm before charging. Even if we can provide 120v with our 1000 w Honda gen, during our hunting season, it would be ok but why car for that?! They also provide a much higher voltage to the Escape appliance and some of them are voltage sensitive like the roof fan.

So we have decided for now, to try and AGM sealed 100a/h type 31 witch is suppose to provide greater discharge and much faster recharge than the regular deep cycle battery we had ant that was showing some age weakness.

I don't what to carry my generator on a regular base for camping.

If it does not work better, I'll manage to try a portable panel but would better like a fixe one.

Time will tell.