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Old 07-19-2019, 09:32 PM   #1
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Air conditioning

My 2013 came without air. Vent and wiring are in place. Escape offers an 11,000 btu unit. Can I have a Coleman Mach III 15,000 btu unit installed in the same space?
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Old 07-20-2019, 06:40 AM   #2
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I thing that would be way too large for an Escape. If you do not size it properly then the a/c will come on chill you down fast and then shut off and then repeat again and again. You want a smaller sized unit that will operate for awhile while it conditions your air. A properly sized unit will not cycle as often than an improperly sized unit, thus saving start up wear and tear and electricity.
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Old 07-20-2019, 06:58 AM   #3
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Many 28, 30, 32 ft 5th wheel trailers come with a 15,000 btu A/C .
15,000 btu seems like over kill for a Casita . The bigger unit will cool the trailer but won’t dehumidify the air properly . I believe the one on our 17 ft Casita is around 9000 btu
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Old 07-20-2019, 07:17 AM   #4
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I installed an 11,000 unit. The smaller unit makes more sense to me. Not only more efficient but a lot less ugly... well, except for the sound.
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:20 AM   #5
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The OP purchased a 2013 19’. His profile is outdated.

I can offer that my 9,000 BTU mini-split perfectly cools a 19’ or 21’. With proper sizing and inverter technology it does not short cycle and provides great dehumidifying. An oversized unit in a humid environment will cause you to feel cold and clammy.
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:31 AM   #6
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While I agree with the comments that the 11,000 BTU/hr size is likely more appropriate than 15,000 BTU/hr, the direct answer to Craig's question is "yes". Common RV air conditioners all install into the same 14" square opening.

In an RV with 30 amp service, running a larger air conditioner would be even more restrictive of what else you can run at the same time.
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:49 PM   #7
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Camped in Moab last week, no shade on the trailer and temperatures 90-100, the factory installed 11,000 unit did the job. It does take some time to cool when the temp inside is close to 110.
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:59 PM   #8
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In preparation for our first summer campground hosting in Big Bend we replaced our second MaxFan with a Coleman 13,500 BTU/Hr unit. A bit too big for an E21 but we expect to use it to cool down before bed and then rely on high desert cooling to stay tolerable. There is no humidity in Big Bend to speak of so that is not an issue.


Time will tell if this plan works,
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Old 07-20-2019, 01:12 PM   #9
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As already mentioned, bigger is not always better with HVAC equipment and ideally, equipment sizing is based on a design load calculation. Difficult to do that with an RV since its geographic location can change (maybe RV manufacturers just assume Florida in the the summer?) so they are probably oversized from the factory already.

Here's a short article with a bit more detail in explaining the issues with short cycling and dehumidification that previous posters pointed out...

https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/...-Is-a-Bad-Idea
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Old 07-22-2019, 01:09 PM   #10
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Another point in favor of the 11KBTU is power. The trailer has a 30A plug, and the 11KBTU needs about 11.5A out of that 30. Add in 12A for the water heater, 3A for the fridge, and 3A for the converter and you're pretty much right at the limit if everything kicks in at once. A 15,000BTU AC would need more like 15A, so staying under 30 would get much more difficult.
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Old 07-22-2019, 01:23 PM   #11
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Pretty easy to get rid of the 12 amp draw from the hot water heater. Propane works just fine. And the water stays hot a long time. No need to have it on continuously.

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Old 07-22-2019, 03:42 PM   #12
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I have the 13,500 btu Coleman Mach 8. I have added the hush kit, Micro-Aire easy start, and digital thermostat. If it ever needs to be replaced I will probably go with the factory 11k Dometic unit as I think this is more cooling power than I need, even in Florida.
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Old 07-22-2019, 03:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaGman View Post
I have the 13,500 btu Coleman Mach 8. I have added the hush kit, Micro-Aire easy start, and digital thermostat. ...
If I may ask, what is a "hush kit"? Does it reduce the noise of the running unit? And if so, where did you purchase it?

Thank you,
Alan
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Old 07-22-2019, 04:18 PM   #14
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I bought it from Orbital Machine Works, now called Perfect Casita. It slows the fan down and replaces the fan blade in the older units. Lots of information on the Casita forum, as the Coleman were the factory units and can be loud.

Mach 8 hush kits
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Old 07-23-2019, 03:54 PM   #15
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Air Conditioning

Thank you all for your input!
Adding the Micro-Aire easy start enables a Honda 2000 generator to start and run a 11,000 btu unit?
But capacity is still an issue but could be enhanced by coupling another 2000 - correct?
Craig
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:32 PM   #16
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I am able to run my 13.5k unit with Micro Aire easy start with my Honda 2000 ( even using propane conversion) so I can’t see the 11k unit being a problem at all. I am drawing just over 15 amps when the compressor is on and fan is on high.
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:45 PM   #17
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By the numbers you're overloading the Honda a bit there. It's basically rated for 13.3A continuous with 16.6A for short periods. They're pretty robust and conservatively-rated, so it's probably fine, but I'd be hesitant about doing the same with one of the cheap knockoffs. Propane probably knocks it down a bit on top of that.

My 11K tends to draw on the order of 1100W running, so that should be fine for the 2000W (and has in my experience, even without an EasyStart)
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Pretty easy to get rid of the 12 amp draw from the hot water heater. Propane works just fine. And the water stays hot a long time. No need to have it on continuously.
True, but for long stays (more typical of larger RVs than in Escapes) propane supply can be a hassle and electrical operation is preferred. The answer is load management, which would keep the water heater from running while the A/C is on, and keeps the A/C and water heater from running when something like the microwave is on. This approach works as long as the A/C doesn't need to run almost continuously. Some larger RVs have load management so they can be functional on 30A or even 20A service even though they are designed for 50A (times two) service, but it is rare on any RV with 30 amp service.
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