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Old 11-30-2023, 09:56 AM   #1
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All Power Went Out—Shore AC and Trailer DC! How?

So there I was, sleeping in the Escape, with a milk-barn electric heater running (at the 1350W setting), and the propane furnace set at 68 to back up the heater. Suddenly I was awakened at 2 AM when there was a bit of a bang and the noisy heater stopped—and so did all the little lights (on the 'fridge, battery-level plug-in, awning light outside). Maybe the breaker in the 20V circuit in daughter's house I was plugged into?

I went for the hall lights, but nothing. No 12V power either? Trailer was totally dark, except for a little red light on the propane detector. I grabbed a flashlight and headed for the Converter, figuring there must be some master breaker open or something—when the EMS clunked, and all the power came back on!

So what happened? There was no power outage in the house (I discovered this morning), there was no need to go inside and reset a breaker. And how could something (the EMS?) shut off all power, both shore AC and trailer DC? And then bring it back after a couple of minutes?

I have always figured that the AC and DC systems were separate, except for the Converter using AC to charge the batteries (which show 13.xx volts, BTW). So what could have happened? Color me mystified.
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Old 11-30-2023, 10:36 AM   #2
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Mystery solved!

Just realized I had better check battery condition, by disconnecting shore power. Sure enough (no pun intended), no battery. Back to crawling for the Converter, when I saw the Battery Disconnect Switch. Yes, that same switch we all know is in that insanely vulnerable position, was OFF.

So of course I had no battery power!

Probably what happened was that the EMS detected low voltage or something in the 20A shore-power circuit, so shut it down. I've been using the dinette table as my office all week, so I had probably kicked the Disconnect switch off long before. But as long as we were on Shore power, no problem.

Anyway, I taped that infernal switch in the up (On) position, and said to myself once again, "Got to get a little box to cover it." This time I'll remember!
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Old 11-30-2023, 11:36 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLynn View Post
Anyway, I taped that infernal switch in the up (On) position, and said to myself once again, "Got to get a little box to cover it." This time I'll remember!
Glad it was a simple fix. Another option is to replace the switch with a rotary style. I installed this and highly recommend. It is quite compact compared to the other Blue Sea rotary switches some have used. They also have a version with a removable knob but I didn't find that necessary and you risk losing it.
https://powerwerx.com/panelhdsw-heavy-duty-switch
https://powerwerx.com/panelhdswk-hea...removable-knob
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Old 11-30-2023, 01:36 PM   #4
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I made a little switch guard over the switch when we first got our trailer, we kept bumping it also. Works great, has never been a problem since.
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Old 11-30-2023, 01:59 PM   #5
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I replaced that exact same switch in the exact same place on my '14 E21C with this....

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Old 12-02-2023, 05:14 PM   #6
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I replaced that exact same switch in the exact same place on my '14 E21C with this....
Looks like a good addition to the winter project list.

First got to winterize when I get home tomorrow evening. Currently stopped overnight on our way home at Pickeral Point Campground, Promised Land State Park, PA.
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Old 12-02-2023, 05:24 PM   #7
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After years of marine battery switches I was a little surprised at what passed for a battery switch in Escapes. I replaced mine with proper battery switches in both the 19 and 21.

In my case, because I use redundant isolated batteries, they're multi-position switches allowing for use of 1, both, or 2.

No danger of them ever being accidentally turned off or failing as some OEM switches have.

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Old 12-02-2023, 07:14 PM   #8
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Kinda surprised to see the battery disconnect switches out in the open in those photos. Mine is under the dinette bench.
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Old 12-02-2023, 07:17 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by SageRpod View Post
Kinda surprised to see the battery disconnect switches out in the open in those photos. Mine is under the dinette bench.
Well ETI puts them out in the open outside the bench. So easiest to replace with a switch you can't kick shut right where the old one was. Or so I assume, anyway.
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Old 12-03-2023, 09:34 AM   #10
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Well ETI puts them out in the open outside the bench. So easiest to replace with a switch you can't kick shut right where the old one was. Or so I assume, anyway.
I think ETI now installs them under the dinette bench as SageRpod noted. At least that's where mine is on my 2022. It's near the power center. Pretty hard to kick in that location.
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Old 12-03-2023, 10:29 AM   #11
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Escape installs the battery disconnect under the bench now and it’s a rotary key.
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Old 12-03-2023, 12:16 PM   #12
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Well that's a better switch.

I'd rather have mine in an easier to access location. I had an electrical fire once and scrambling to disconnect the battery was something I don't want to ever do again.

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Old 12-03-2023, 01:12 PM   #13
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Escape installs the battery disconnect under the bench now and it’s a rotary key.
Whew. Thought I was going crazy there for a second or the original potential purchaser who bailed ordered something special.
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Old 12-03-2023, 01:15 PM   #14
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Well that's a better switch.

I'd rather have mine in an easier to access location. I had an electrical fire once and scrambling to disconnect the battery was something I don't want to ever do again.

Ron
My Bad! Assuming you're referencing my photo, I should have mentioned that the one in the photo is a replacement. I recalled numerous comment on the forum suggesting the stock ETI switch was marginally adequate. After I got my trailer and started doing some electrical mods, I started fixing poorly crimped connectors and putting ferrules on stranded wire stuffed into things like my Victron controller and buss bars. While I was at it, I put in a Blue-Sea switch.
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Old 12-03-2023, 01:24 PM   #15
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My Bad! Assuming you're referencing my photo, I should have mentioned that the one in the photo is a replacement. I recalled numerous comment on the forum suggesting the stock ETI switch was marginally adequate. After I got my trailer and started doing some electrical mods, I started fixing poorly crimped connectors and putting ferrules on stranded wire stuffed into things like my Victron controller and buss bars. While I was at it, I put in a Blue-Sea switch.
Maybe ETI is putting those in now as well. Ours is the rotary switch with removable key, tethered to the switch. All I know is that's what the trailer came with when it was brand, spankin' new and I'm good with it.
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Old 12-03-2023, 01:32 PM   #16
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Maybe ETI is putting those in now as well. Ours is the rotary switch with removable key, tethered to the switch. All I know is that's what the trailer came with when it was brand, spankin' new and I'm good with it.
My original was just as you described and they are probably more than adequate. I wanted to redo the ring connectors but then went a little overboard.
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Old 12-03-2023, 01:33 PM   #17
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My original was just as you described and they are probably more than adequate. I wanted to redo the ring connectors but then went a little overboard.
LOL. Like that NEVER happens on this forum
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Old 12-03-2023, 01:45 PM   #18
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My Bad! Assuming you're referencing my photo, I should have mentioned that the one in the photo is a replacement. I recalled numerous comment on the forum suggesting the stock ETI switch was marginally adequate. After I got my trailer and started doing some electrical mods, I started fixing poorly crimped connectors and putting ferrules on stranded wire stuffed into things like my Victron controller and buss bars. While I was at it, I put in a Blue-Sea switch.
Very neat. Did ETI install a bus bar for the negative 12 volt ring connectors or did you do it?
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Old 12-03-2023, 02:38 PM   #19
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Very neat. Did ETI install a bus bar for the negative 12 volt ring connectors or did you do it?
ETI did.
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