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Old 05-06-2020, 05:27 PM   #1
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amp draw of escape a appliances ??

Has any one done some test on amp draw of escape appliances ?
I trying to figure out how many amp hours i will need. To do that correctly I need a idea of what 12 volt amp draw is. I tried looking at dometic website with no luck on fridge



1.12 volt draw on fridge while running on gas

5 cuft = Dometic RM2554
6 cuft = Dometic DM2683



water pump?
water heater?
furnace ?
led lights?
propane detector?
Anything else that is using power while not plugged in?



maybe there a place where someone has tested this stuff?
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Old 05-06-2020, 06:07 PM   #2
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The manuals usually have a rating for the major appliances.
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Old 05-06-2020, 06:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
The manuals usually have a rating for the major appliances.



I have downloaded both fridge manuals and they don't provide that info .not sure on furnace as i don't have a model number, i thinking the furnace would be the biggest draw.
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Old 05-06-2020, 09:26 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY View Post
not sure on furnace as i don't have a model number, i thinking the furnace would be the biggest draw.
Escape uses the Dometic DFSAD12 (formerly the Atwood AFSAD12) which draws 2.4A.
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Old 05-06-2020, 09:32 PM   #5
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Kill-a-watt

One way to cipher the draws of devices is to hook your rig to 110V power and connect a Kill-a-watt meter.



https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec.../dp/B00009MDBU


They're low cost. One at a time, energize an appliance, on AC (shore power). Take note of the wattage readings. With some math, you can convert the 110V AC wattage readings to 12 V current draws.


This may work, but I've only done it for 110V AC and not the 12V conversion, to determine the wattage of an AC at start-up and run mode and with a Casita refrig on AC.


A high end multi-meter with attachments can measure current draw, if you can get to the wires attached to your appliance.
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Old 05-06-2020, 09:47 PM   #6
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Some years back John with a Scamp 19 posted these DC amps draws of various items on his website. Might not be exact for an Escape but will give you order of magnitude...

Just Finding Our Way: Scamp 19
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Old 05-06-2020, 09:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER View Post
One way to cipher the draws of devices is to hook your rig to 110V power and connect a Kill-a-watt meter.
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec.../dp/B00009MDBU
They're low cost. One at a time, energize an appliance, on AC (shore power). Take note of the wattage readings. With some math, you can convert the 110V AC wattage readings to 12 V current draws.
Based on his list it does not appear he is interested in 120V appliances that could be run off an inverter. It seems he is simply trying to understand what all normally DC only items would be drawing.
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Old 05-06-2020, 10:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY View Post
Has any one done some test on amp draw of escape appliances ?
I trying to figure out how many amp hours i will need. To do that correctly I need a idea of what 12 volt amp draw is. I tried looking at dometic website with no luck on fridge

1.12 volt draw on fridge while running on gas

5 cuft = Dometic RM2554
6 cuft = Dometic DM2683
A backhanded way to determine the amp draw is to get the rating of a replacement 12V electric element. In the case of an RM2554 it’s 175W or at 12V nominal almost 15 amps.
https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...att-0173739012
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Old 05-06-2020, 10:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY View Post
propane detector?
Based on the Atwood unit shown in the Escape Owner’s Manual the draw is 75 milliamps.
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Old 05-07-2020, 06:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Escape uses the Dometic DFSAD12 (formerly the Atwood AFSAD12) which draws 2.4A.

thank you very helpful


Quote:
Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER View Post
One way to cipher the draws of devices is to hook your rig to 110V power and connect a Kill-a-watt meter.



https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec.../dp/B00009MDBU


They're low cost. One at a time, energize an appliance, on AC (shore power). Take note of the wattage readings. With some math, you can convert the 110V AC wattage readings to 12 V current draws.


This may work, but I've only done it for 110V AC and not the 12V conversion, to determine the wattage of an AC at start-up and run mode and with a Casita refrig on AC.


A high end multi-meter with attachments can measure current draw, if you can get to the wires attached to your appliance.
yes but i dont have the trailer yet


Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
A backhanded way to determine the amp draw is to get the rating of a replacement 12V electric element. In the case of an RM2554 it’s 175W or at 12V nominal almost 15 amps.
https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...att-0173739012

This would Be running in 12 volt mode. I am concerned about the 12 volt draw running on propane. with the 12 volt heat element escape told me it draw 10.8 for the small fridge and 22 amps for the large. so there be no way you could run in 12 volt mode while boondocking . even running in gas there is some 12 volt draw all the time too run the controls.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Based on the Atwood unit shown in the Escape Owner’s Manual the draw is 75 milliamps.



thanks this is helful
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Old 06-14-2020, 12:12 PM   #11
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power draws

I used a clip-on ammeter at the battery lead to obtain the following current draws (5.0TA, 12 volt battery)
Battery on (Propane detector powered, radio off): 0.15 to 0.2 amp
Radio on: 0.59 amps
Fridge (electric mode, 120 volt): 0.48 amp
Furnace: 3.0 amp
H2O pump: 7.2 amp
Maxx Vent (speed dependent) 0.77 to 3.1 amp
Stove fan: 0.97 amp
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Old 06-14-2020, 04:20 PM   #12
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I wonder if the refrigerator pulls the same on 120 or propane?
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Old 06-14-2020, 05:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I wonder if the refrigerator pulls the same on 120 or propane?
While I haven't measured it, I suspect it is less on 120V since it isn't using 12V to hold open the gas valve. I know I can see the difference on my battery monitor when the gas valve opens & shuts in the furnace.
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Old 06-14-2020, 06:08 PM   #14
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Sorry, I posted from memory (never a good thing)
Current draw for fridge is in propane / 12 volt mode
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Old 06-14-2020, 06:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safetybill View Post
I used a clip-on ammeter at the battery lead to obtain the following current draws (5.0TA, 12 volt battery)
Battery on (Propane detector powered, radio off): 0.15 to 0.2 amp
Radio on: 0.59 amps
Fridge (electric mode, 120 volt): 0.48 amp
Furnace: 3.0 amp
H2O pump: 7.2 amp
Maxx Vent (speed dependent) 0.77 to 3.1 amp
Stove fan: 0.97 amp
Thanks thats good info. wow the water pump is a big draw.
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Old 06-14-2020, 06:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY View Post
Thanks thats good info. wow the water pump is a big draw.
Not a long draw though ....remember we are looking at amp/hours for how long our batteries last.
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