Anode Rod Issue and a Couple of Questions

[marant]

Well, I guess you guys have added one more thing to my list. Our 2010 Errant Escape 17B may have never had the anode checked, just do not know. Part of the rehab.


Wonder what else I have missed?

[Serendipity]

Originally Posted by stephen99

I always drain and flush the water heater once a year and replace the anode at the same time. They are cheap enough so might as well just do it while you have things apart. Magnesium is said to work better so that's what I buy. Here's a link to the one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-2327...8374122&sr=8-4

If you are storing the trailer over the winter you should drain the water heater and that is done by removing the anode.

Hello!
Thank you for the info.... I did not know you drain the water heater through the anode rod area... wow... will do that for the upcoming winterization... thanks again!
Maria

[Serendipity]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I'll try to answer, mag or aluminum - check your booklet to see what suburban says
take rod out(first release pressure) drain and clean/hose out insides, inspect rod, if more than 75% replace. Replacement time depends on water being used, varies.

Hello,

Thanks for the information... we are newbies at all of this; so everyone's help is very useful... thanks again!

Maria

[Serendipity]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Hi Maria. I hope all is well.
Watch this video that I had included in post #19. It will answer many of your questions. The right one to buy is the magnesium one that stephen99 linked to above. You would only go to aluminum under rare circumstances (covered in the video).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=33s&...T8&app=desktop

If you haven't removed the anode does that mean that you never had water in the hot water tank (and had it bypassed)? I ask because you need to remove the anode to drain the tank. If you haven't been using the tank the anode should still be like new. For the winter with the water heater in bypass you would typically blow the piping system out with compressed air or pump in RV antifreeze. With the tank empty and bypassed some leave the anode out for the winter, but because of the rusting that can occur on the threads of both the tank and anode I would recommend reinstalling it as shown in the video with some mineral oil and teflon tape. With no water in the tank the anode will not be degraded. One thing you definitely don't want to do is put antifreeze in the hot water tank. It is a waste of antifreeze, attacks the anode and requires you to do more flushing in the spring. Also during the camping season it is good practice to bypass and drain the hot water tank when you aren't using the RV.

Replace the anode once ~75% of the material is gone. As was said it depends on use. It is not a bad idea to have a spare sitting around just in case. I just bought two.

Hello Rubicon!
So good to hear from you. Appreciate the video, graphics and instructions. I still don't know how we did this, but we winterized our 19 by ourselves last year. Honestly, I don't remember removing the anode rod to drain the water heater, but I know we followed the instructions on the manual for the bypass with the pipes etc. I was holding my breath when we got the 19 ready for the summer this year; but thank goodness all worked out. We have to check the status of our anode rod.... once we winterize this year, we will be able to know if we need to change this rod or not.

Say hello to your parents for us...

Best,

Warre and Maria

[MyronL]

Don’t have an anode question but do have an electrical switch question. Note in the picture it says turn the on/off switch on or off. Yet, there’s no switch back there. So where is this switch?

Note my heater is model SW6D, which is --- gas fired only? ….there is no ECO T-STAT 120v Electric Element Only reset button, just the 12v DC spark ignition reset button, on the right.

I’ve run the pump - assume the hot water tank has water in it. Not getting hot water when the wall switch inside the trailer clicks on. Water pressure not great either. Do I need to wait 5+ minutes? Pilot light, gas heating flame do come on and stay running. Have not checked out the heating element yet. One of its shroud screws not accessible without removing the regulator.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Don’t have an anode question but do have an electrical switch question. Note in the picture it says turn the on/off switch on or off. Yet, there’s no switch back there. So where is this switch?



Note my heater is model SW6D, which is --- gas fired only? ….there is no ECO T-STAT 120v Electric Element Only reset button, just the 12v DC spark ignition reset button, on the right.



I’ve run the pump - assume the hot water tank has water in it. Not getting hot water when the wall switch inside the trailer clicks on. Water pressure not great either. Do I need to wait 5+ minutes? Pilot light, gas heating flame do come on and stay running. Have not checked out the heating element yet. One of its shroud screws not accessible without removing the regulator.

Myron, the switch is tucked kinda behind a couple things to the top left.

[MyronL]

Nope, no switch anywhere in there. Best guess now is maybe, if I remove the black cover over the reset button, there's something to troubleshoot. Problem is the genius who designed this thing made it impossible to access turning that left screw without total disassembly of the gas regulators. I removed right side screw but can't even pry that cover up because it is glued solidly in place.

[padlin]

I would think that would be the on/off switch inside the trailer. You do have one of those right?

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Note my heater is model SW6D, which is --- gas fired only? ….there is no ECO T-STAT 120v Electric Element Only reset button, just the 12v DC spark ignition reset button, on the right.

The SW6DE is the gas/electric model. The SW6D is gas only - the switch the instructions refer to would be the one inside the trailer.

[MyronL]

I have that inside switch and it is working normal. No fuses in the WFCO are tripped but then, none are labeled for hot water heater either. Will be crawling under the bed to eyeball stuff there.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by MyronL

I have that inside switch and it is working normal. No fuses in the WFCO are tripped but then, none are labeled for hot water heater either. Will be crawling under the bed to eyeball stuff there.

If you look at the wiring diagram below, you will note that the 12v supply to the hot water heater comes from the inside on/off switch (+ on diagram). Check to insure that +12v is being supplied to the switch, that may be where the problem is.

[padlin]

Originally Posted by MyronL

I’ve run the pump - assume the hot water tank has water in it. Not getting hot water when the wall switch inside the trailer clicks on. Water pressure not great either. Do I need to wait 5+ minutes?

Mine takes longer then 5 minutes to heat up. I don't see the HW heater having anything to do with lack of pressure

[gbaglo]

If you connect to city water and open the pressure relief valve, water will shoot out if the tank is full.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

If you connect to city water and open the pressure relief valve, water will shoot out if the tank is full.

And a quick note to those "newbies" draining the hot water tank for the first time - after shutting off the water & waiting for it to cool, be sure to crack the pressure relief valve before unthreading the anode (unless you are in desperate need of a shower, and want to watch the anode rod fly across the driveway!)

I know there are those that never want to disturb the pressure relief valve, but since Escape puts a back flow valve on the hot water outlet, opening a hot water faucet won't relieve the pressure.

[MyronL]

Assuming the heating element is behind that upper black cover I can't unscrew yet, if I find nothing amiss under the bed and I have a full tank (will now go briefly crack open the pressure relief valve) will wait 5+ minutes like you do, Bob, then see what happens and will consider de-assembly of propane regulator lines (ugh) to troubleshoot heating element. (Unless you guys think better of that.)

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Assuming the heating element is behind that upper black cover I can't unscrew yet, if I find nothing amiss under the bed and I have a full tank (will now go briefly crack open the pressure relief valve) will wait 5+ minutes like you do, Bob, then see what happens and will consider de-assembly of propane regulator lines (ugh) to troubleshoot heating element. (Unless you guys think better of that.)

Myron, there is no heating element behind that upper black cover. That is where the thermostat hi-limit and reset is.

Here is a video for checking the gas pilot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bp94TJ_DX6E

If you turn on the water heater from inside and then go outside and listen to the gas burner, you should hear and be able to see the gas flame. Also, you should hear the clicking noise of the igniter trying to light the gas pilot.

If it has a flame, then maybe it is just partially plugged causing low heat.

Below is a pic of where the thermostat and gas orifice is located.

[MyronL]

Thanks, Texas, that saves me a lot of grief. So the question, is simply, do I have a heating element or not, and if I do, (like when you walk into a big spider web)....where is it now?

But I digress. The problem is actually solved. Going under the bed, (after speaking on the phone with Dave,) I was told these two valves, top and bottom, out of the heater, must both be turned horizontal towards the pump. Mine were both in the vertical (bypass) position, pointed toward each other. Thank you Dave.

Water is flowing beautifully now, very hot and steady. Simple solutions work well for simple minds.

[cpaharley2008]

Inquiring minds want to know who turned the bypass valves off, Myron?

[MyronL]

Was recently evaluated by a psych guy at the VA because I complained to my primary about my continuing short-term memory loss issues. After extensive testing Psych guy concluded my avoidance of doing anything that could be interpreted as exercise has contributed to blood vessel shrinkage in my brain, thereby shrinking my memory banks. I have since accepted his suggestion that at the very least I do 4 miles a day on my (ignored) exercise bike at home.


That's my story and I'm sticking to it. While away in Colorado this week I read an article that claimed CBD tinctures, among other things, opens up them brain blood vessels.

[yangstyle]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

And a quick note to those "newbies" draining the hot water tank for the first time - after shutting off the water & waiting for it to cool, be sure to crack the pressure relief valve before unthreading the anode (unless you are in desperate need of a shower, and want to watch the anode rod fly across the driveway!)

I know there are those that never want to disturb the pressure relief valve, but since Escape puts a back flow valve on the hot water outlet, opening a hot water faucet won't relieve the pressure.

I can vouch for that. Drained the hot water tank the first time this summer and got a small shower and the anode flew out about 5-6 feet. I was just glad it was not hot water, just warm.