Any suggestions for troubleshooting hot water heater?

[Dave Walter]

Went to Jasper National Park with the 15B on the weekend. Unfortunately the hot water heater failed to work and I ended up taking a very cold shower after running the Skyline Trail on Saturday. I didn't have time to do any trouble shooting yet, and was hoping to get suggestions from you.

We had no electrical services, only 12V power with solar. Twin 6V batteries are brand new. Propane was on. The furnace, fridge, and stove were all working on propane. When I turned on the switch to light the hot water heater, the red light beside the switch did not go on. When I looked at the hot water heater, there was no activity at all. Pressing the reset button under the side cover and on the hot water heater did not have any effect. I took a quick scan of the fuses in the fuse box but did not see any obvious burnouts. This was the extent of my trouble shooting.

The trailer is now back at home and I am going to have to get the hot water heater going before the next trip in a couple of weeks. My plan is to check to see whether power is getting to the on-off switch and to recheck the fuses. Other than that, I have no real plan. Any suggestions from you would be helpful.

regards

[steve dunham]

On a previous trailer ( Not Escape ) , the wiring harness going to the ignition control module for the WH had come unplugged . Plugged it back in and tyrapped it in place - problem fixed

[Iowa Dave]

That switch can go bad. I’m not sure how it comes out but I would pull it and jumper the wires to see if it’s the switch. Then onto more spensive things.
Iowa Dave

[tdf-texas]

Below is the wiring diagram for the hot water heater.

Note that the top part of the diagram is for gas operation and bottom part is for electric only.

Power for the igniter board comes from the gas on/off switch on the panel, then goes through the hi limit/ thermostat switch, then to the igniter board at pin 1.

Let.s start with the easy one - have you reset the hi limit switch? (see pic)

Next. You will need a voltmeter and with the gas switch on - check for 12v between pin 1 and pin 5 of the igniter board with the gas switch on. The igniter board will be mounted close to the hot water heater and have a plastic cover. Pin 1 is the PWR connection shown in the pic. Pin 5 is marked GND.

If the igniter board has 12v to pin 1 to pin 5 and the red light doesn't light (TEST contact has no voltage) - the igniter board is bad. It happens as the Suburban igniter boards don't like voltages above 13.5v.

I would recommend purchasing a Dinosaur Electronics board over the stock one as it is much better designed.

https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/UIB_S.htm

[Dave Walter]

Looks like a few good suggestions. I will take a closer look and see if I can narrow things down. thanks.

[Fox hunt]

ours wouldn't work either. we found a wire had become detached and reattached it. now working perfectly

[Dave Walter]

I took a closer look at things after work last night. Turns out there was a 20A fuse burnt out in the fuse box (was not obvious until the fuse was pulled). I replaced it and voila, no joy, the hotwater heater still didn't light. Went outside and looked inside the cover for the HW heater and pressed the reset switch on the HW heater. Then voila, happiness, it fired right up and seems to work ok (I only had it going for a few moments). I am hoping that this is all there is to it, but I would like to understand why the fuse in the fusebox burnt out in the first place. I guess that I will have to watch and see if any further issues arise.

[Rossue]

Appreciate the follow-up and glad it seems to have been an easy fix. Reminds me to fire it up to be sure it's working before heading out next time.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Dave Walter

I took a closer look at things after work last night. Turns out there was a 20A fuse burnt out in the fuse box (was not obvious until the fuse was pulled). I replaced it and voila, no joy, the hotwater heater still didn't light. Went outside and looked inside the cover for the HW heater and pressed the reset switch on the HW heater. Then voila, happiness, it fired right up and seems to work ok (I only had it going for a few moments). I am hoping that this is all there is to it, but I would like to understand why the fuse in the fusebox burnt out in the first place. I guess that I will have to watch and see if any further issues arise.

Happy to hear it was the easy one!

If it happens again, you may need to replace the hi limit switch - as they age, they tend to trip when they shouldn't.

https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...-130-232282%20

[oldwave]

I had to replace the control module for the hot water tank in my 2017 escape 21. It was located under the bed next to the tank. It was a bit of an contortion to get it out. Was covered under warranty at the time.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by oldwave

I had to replace the control module for the hot water tank in my 2017 escape 21. It was located under the bed next to the tank. It was a bit of an contortion to get it out. Was covered under warranty at the time.

Mine was mounted in the same place it seems. Even with the plywood off, it was hard to get to. I moved it.

[hondasaurus]

Today tested my water heater before a long trip because last year when I closed it the electrode was under load with the with inside off while I was draining the thing. Saw the element red....

When to check with propane but my neabourg initiate a talk, a long talk. So after talking I finally turn on the swith insist the Trailler. Notting and no fault light. Checked the propane and fuses OK

Crawled under the to see the control box and touched the pipe. They were warmed. I forgot that the trailer was hocked to the house and the element warm the water.

So I thought to myself that the propane does not light because the water was warmed enough . I hope so and will check that tomorrow without 120v in the trailer.

So before beginning diagnostic check the water temp.