Batteries not charging from converter, but DO charge from vehicle

[TahoeJoe]

I'm on my maiden voyage in my 5.0, and just now after stopping in one spot for a few days, I've realized that the batteries are not charging when connected to shore power. They do charge when connected to my tow vehicle. I've noticed no other electrical problems, everything seems to be working fine. I do have the EMS, I tried bypassing that but still not charging. I've also tried resetting all the breakers. Does this mean there's an issue with my converter? Or something else? Any thoughts and ideas are welcome...thanks!

[Brian B-P]

There is usually (depends on model, year, and options) a switch between the battery and the WFCO power centre, which is turned off for storage (so that the battery isn't run down in storage by stuff such as the propane detector). If it is left off, the converter will supply 12 volt DC power for the trailer, but the battery will not be connected and so it will not charge. The connection of the battery to the tow vehicle doesn't go through this switch, so charging from the tow vehicle is not affected.

If this switch is off (in the position for storage, rather than the position for use), then none of the 12 volt equipment in the interior (lights, fans, water pump) will work when the shore power is not connected.

Strangely, I can't find any mention of this switch in the Escape Owner's Manual.

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

There is usually (depends on model, year, and options) a switch between the battery and the WFCO power centre, which is turned off for storage (so that the battery isn't run down in storage by stuff such as the propane detector). If it is left off, the converter will supply 12 volt DC power for the trailer, but the battery will not be connected and so it will not charge. The connection of the battery to the tow vehicle doesn't go through this switch, so charging from the tow vehicle is not affected.

If this switch is off (in the position for storage, rather than the position for use), then none of the 12 volt equipment in the interior (lights, fans, water pump) will work when the shore power is not connected.

Strangely, I can't find any mention of this switch in the Escape Owner's Manual.

I did check that, and it is definitely in the ON position, and all the 12V stuff is working...

[TahoeJoe]

I did just buy a multimeter, and I'm reading the converter's manual now, for troubleshooting. Hopefully I'll discover something...

[HABBERDABBER]

Do your multi-meter checking, but also loosen, clean ALL of the battery connections and then check and clean connections up to the converter and check the open circuit voltage of each battery. Individual cells in a battery can go, and impede charging. With lead acid, I've had them work and then not work.....deposits sloughing off the plates intermittently short out a cell.



Electrical demons are insidious. Work the problem, and good luck.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

I did check that, and it is definitely in the ON position, and all the 12V stuff is working...

Just to clarify all the 12 volt stuff works even when NOT connected to the tow vehicle or shore power?

Even with the battery disconnected the 12 volt stuff will still work when plugged into shore power as it is powered by the converter.

[MVA]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

I'm on my maiden voyage in my 5.0, and just now after stopping in one spot for a few days, I've realized that the batteries are not charging when connected to shore power. They do charge when connected to my tow vehicle. I've noticed no other electrical problems, everything seems to be working fine. I do have the EMS, I tried bypassing that but still not charging. I've also tried resetting all the breakers. Does this mean there's an issue with my converter? Or something else? Any thoughts and ideas are welcome...thanks!

There are two fuses in the WFCO power center that if burned out, would disconnect the battery from the power center. You may want to check them.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MVA

There are two fuses in the WFCO power center that if burned out, would disconnect the battery from the power center. You may want to check them.

Actually they disconnect the converter from everything else, but I assume they that should not affect the connection of the battery to the power centre's DC distribution panel and thus all of the 12 V DC circuits.

Previous discussion: 40 amp fuses

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

I did just buy a multimeter, and I'm reading the converter's manual now, for troubleshooting. Hopefully I'll discover something...

Following this troubleshooting guide might help narrow it down. You want to measure across the negative lug and +VCC lug on the DC board which I highlighted.

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

Just to clarify all the 12 volt stuff works even when NOT connected to the tow vehicle or shore power?

Even with the battery disconnected the 12 volt stuff will still work when plugged into shore power as it is powered by the converter.

Correct, all the 12V stuff works when the trailer is not connected to anything.

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by MVA

There are two fuses in the WFCO power center that if burned out, would disconnect the battery from the power center. You may want to check them.

That was one of the first things I tried, because the previous owner just installed new 6V batteries right before I bought it, and I suspected perhaps during that install he fried one of the fuses. But I checked them and they are all good...

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Following this troubleshooting guide might help narrow it down. You want to measure across the negative lug and +VCC lug on the DC board which I highlighted.

This is great info, I will try it tomorrow!

Also, I emailed Escape today, and this is what Dustin responded with: "I will suggest testing the battery disconnect switch to verify if you are getting power on both sides of the terminals when in the on position. This switch works as a two-way street it allows power out but also allows power through to charge the batteries."

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

Also, I emailed Escape today, and this is what Dustin responded with: "I will suggest testing the battery disconnect switch to verify if you are getting power on both sides of the terminals when in the on position. This switch works as a two-way street it allows power out but also allows power through to charge the batteries."

Unlikely the disconnect switch is the issue. If you are operating fine off the batteries with no shore or tow vehicle power that circuit is active regardless of which way the electrons are flowing.

How did you first suspect the batteries weren’t charging on shore power? Do you have a battery monitor?

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

How did you first suspect the batteries weren’t charging on shore power? Do you have a battery monitor?

I'm just relying on the trailer's battery monitor, over 3 days it slowly drained to 1/3. At first when it was showing less than full (even when plugged in) I wrote it off to having some lights and stuff on. Then yesterday it showed 1/3 even after I shut everything off. Plugged it into the running truck for a bit and it started to climb back up.

[TahoeJoe]

Today I tested the disconnect and the fuses again, they are fine. Batteries and terminals all appear fine and I can charge OK with both the tow vehicle and a trickle charger.

Then I tested the converter output by measuring across the negative lug and +VCC lug on the DC board, as it was suggested both here and in the converter manual. I disconnected the batteries, and plugged into shore power, and got...0 volts. Also the fan to the converter does not turn on at all when plugged in. Is there anything else to test before I conclude that it's simply a bad converter?

[TTMartin]

Test to make sure 120 volt alternating current is getting to the converter.

[MVA]

I assume that checked that your 120 VAC plugs work fine; i.e., shore power is making it to the 120 VAC panel through their breakers and to the plugs. I believe the converter uses the same breaker as the frig (that is how our E19 is wired). If the AC plugs work on shore power, then does the frig work on 120 VAC power? This check will see if the MBA on the power center (converter) is defective or the breaker failed (I have had that happen at home).

edit - just saw TTMartin's comment after typing (!)

[TahoeJoe]

I ran the air conditioner and the fridge and several outlets for small appliances, all just fine on 120, so I assumed the source was fine and that I was getting good 120. I even tried 3 different power sources to make sure, and tried with both the EMS on and bypassed. But by all means my assumption could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time...is there another check I should make at the converter to test incoming power?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

I ran the air conditioner and the fridge and several outlets for small appliances, all just fine on 120, so I assumed the source was fine and that I was getting good 120. I even tried 3 different power sources to make sure, and tried with both the EMS on and bypassed. But by all means my assumption could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time...is there another check I should make at the converter to test incoming power?

With shore power disconnected trace the three 120V AC wires from the converter up into the compartment with breakers. Check all connections very well. The converter may be on a utility pigtail which means it is twinned with another circuit (like the fridge) and then just one hot wire lands under the breaker. Maybe the connection at the pigtail is bad? Converters can go bad but it seems pretty rare for newer units to fail. With shore power on and being very careful you can put your black lead on the neutral buss or ground buss and then put the red lead on the appropriate breaker lug (hot). In either case of hot-neutral or hot-ground you should read ~120V.

If for some reason you are having trouble determining if the converter is getting power you could always cut the end off an old extension cord and temporarily wire it to the converter AC input leads and plug it in to a working 120V AC outlet to test.

I’m not an electrician but the above is what I would do.

[Oldtimer]

Not on an Escape trailer but had the same converter installed in it. He had the same issue, we tested everything possible. We ended up changing out the converter and solved the issue. This was 3 yrs ago and no issues since.

David