Battery Disconnect

[CathyAndDon]

Haven't used the Escape in a few years and am confused by the "Battery Disconnect" label next to the toggle switch. Should the switch be On (up) after I put the battery back in and connect even if we're hooked up to 30 amp service.
Or wait to turn ON when electric off and ready to tow.

[Viajante]

Turn the switch to “on” when you put the battery in. Being plugged in will top off the charge.

[MrLynn]

Always fun when you put something under the dinette and inadvertently turn the switch Off. . .

[CathyAndDon]

Thanks! So just leave it ON, unplug the shoreline and then tow with the tug also providing power to keep battery charged. Is that correct?
"Disconnect Off" seems similar to a double negative which would mean On.

[Viajante]

Originally Posted by CathyAndDon

Thanks! So just leave it ON, unplug the shoreline and then tow with the tug also providing power to keep battery charged. Is that correct?
"Disconnect Off" seems similar to a double negative which would mean On.

Yes, leave it ON. The label is unfortunate in choice of words. Just think of it as battery on or battery off . You can confirm it is on by turning on a light.

[John in Santa Cruz]

I replaced that annoying switch taht I was always bumping.

[johnnyv]

Beware of dragging 7 pin connector on pavement. Mine wore thru, lost some lights on trailer. Do you just disconnect negative cables on batteries to change out cord ? My trailer is 2021 21 NE. Thx in advance

[John in Santa Cruz]

If I had to replace my 7-pin cord, I would undoubtably get one with a connection box, which you mount on the inside of the A-frame on the front of the trailer under the propane tank mounts... cut off the old cable a little too long, strip back the outer insulation enough to trim each wire at the correct length and add ring terminals, and attach it all to the new cord via the junction box....

[Viajante]

Originally Posted by johnnyv

Beware of dragging 7 pin connector on pavement. Mine wore thru, lost some lights on trailer. Do you just disconnect negative cables on batteries to change out cord ? My trailer is 2021 21 NE. Thx in advance

Before disconnecting the negative on the battery it is good to cover the solar panel if you have one. Knowledgeable people have pointed out that it can be damaging to the solar controller if it is disconnected from the battery while the panel is in the sun.

I found the Curt 7pin connector to be a much better fit than the original Bargeman. Just make sure to follow the color conversion chart.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Viajante

Just make sure to follow the color conversion chart.

don't trust wire colors. make a table, check the old connector with a multimeter in 'continuity' mode to see what colors in its internal cable matches what pins.

[johnnyv]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

don't trust wire colors. make a table, check the old connector with a multimeter in 'continuity' mode to see what colors in its internal cable matches what pins.

oh boy, getting over my pay grade. Thought i could just duplicate existing setup.

[johnnyv]

Thx Viajante, ordered one from Mictuning. Heavy duty.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by Viajante

Before disconnecting the negative on the battery it is good to cover the solar panel if you have one. Knowledgeable people have pointed out that it can be damaging to the solar controller if it is disconnected from the battery while the panel is in the sun.
...

An alternative to covering the solar panel: I removed my old batteries last fall in preparation for new ones, left the solar connected and left the disconnect switch (the one under the table that always gets bumped) in the On position with a few lights also On for a load. Early this summer I installed batteries - everything is fine.

[johnnyv]

There is no disconnect switch as far as I know on our 2021 21 NE. Disconnected negative cables, waiting on cord. 3 day turnaround on replacement install.

[John in Santa Cruz]

when I replaced my solar controller and panel, I added a battery disconnect switch in series with the solar panel, so I can switch off the solar panel at will.

[cpaharley2008]

I always thought if you turned it off, you need to cover it to prevent issues.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I always thought if you turned it off, you need to cover it to prevent issues.

no, the issues are if there's no battery connected to the solar controller output when the panels are connected to the input. disconnect the panels, no problems possible. just make sure the battery is connected before you connect the panels.

[jeffhaltiner]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

no, the issues are if there's no battery connected to the solar controller output when the panels are connected to the input. disconnect the panels, no problems possible. just make sure the battery is connected before you connect the panels.

I know many of you are more knowledgeable/experienced on this than i am (new E19 (with 2 solar panels/2 lithium batteries, GoPower solar controller) but it seems problem/issues with the current solar setup are more than just the battery disconnect? My solar controller started flashing (while trailer was parked in d/w for several weeks uncovered.) The GoPower guide suggests that happens only when the battery voltage is above 15.3V (which mine wasn't). I tried soft and hard reset of the controller with no success. Eventually, the controller display switched to a POL (polarity error) even tho the battery polarity was correct.

After a v. frustrating week of work (the location/wiring of the GoPower unit makes it very hard to work on), i just ordered a new controller (under warranty from GoPower). ETI response to my repeated pleas for help was:
"Recently Escape has learned of the GoPower solar controllers overvolting when the solar panels are receiving full sun and the batteries are full. This can be rectified by using power and lowering the voltage stored in the batteries, a way around this is to install a switch between the solar panel and the solar controller. The solar controller will protect against the over voltages."

Well, it seems that the "over-voltage" fried my controller? Seems like a design flaw here? As recommended, I did install a new controller and the toggle switch on the positive lead (red) from the solar panel to the controller and will keep that turned off when the batteries reach 14V. Which i think is what others have done? But it seems a somewhat lame solution to me?

Separate question: Does anyone have a recommended Trailer repair shop/person in the Oakland (East Bay) or SF area. I need someone to consult/fix things when i get in over my head!

Thanks again to you regular forum contributors. SO helpful to us newbies!

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

when I replaced my solar controller and panel, I added a battery disconnect switch in series with the solar panel, so I can switch off the solar panel at will.

This is what I would like to do. Would you provide additional instructions with respect to a) method and b) part (switch) needed? Thanks.

I am puzzled about how it would be possible to disconnect the batteries from the convertor and at the same time use solar to supply load as a work around to covering up the solar panel as one person suggested.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Telescopist

This is what I would like to do. Would you provide additional instructions with respect to a) method and b) part (switch) needed? Thanks.

I am puzzled about how it would be possible to disconnect the batteries from the convertor and at the same time use solar to supply load as a work around to covering up the solar panel as one person suggested.

I don't think thats what was suggested. it was to disconnect the solar panels and use some trailer load off the batteries which are still connected to the trailer.

as far as the switch goes, you can use most any sort of battery disconnect switch rated for at least as much as the max solar voltage and amperage, wire this switch in series with the positive solar cable.

I used this disconnect switch, way overrated for the application
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07413JWLD/

and I installed it on the plywood panel under the rear bench seat of the U dinette on my 21C, where I put most of my electrical upgrades, the switch is in the upper left corner, right above the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 solar controller I used...


the black wire is the positive cable from the rooftop solar panel, the red wire goes to the PV+ input on the solar controller.