City water filling tank

[John in Santa Cruz]

It appears the one way valve in my water system is leaking as if I connect to shore water (with a 40 psi regulator), my fresh water tank fills up and starts to drip....

Where is the one way valve in the system on a 1st gen 21?

[7Gentex]

Part of the water pump I believe.............

But yours was likely caused by storing tequila in the FW tank while in Mexico!

[Viajante]

That one way valve is in the water pump. If that valve isn't working properly city water pressure will push water through the pump and down the pick-up tube into the fresh water tank.

The other one way valve is on the backside of the city water inlet. It prevents the water pump from pushing water out of the city water inlet connection when you are using the fresh water tank and water pump.

[Viajante]

https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-94800...6667069&sr=8-4

Here is a check valve kit for the shurflo pump. You would have to confirm it is the correct kit for your model. For $40 you can get the entire head assembly vs $20 for the valve.

[C&G in FL]

You can sometimes correct that situation by disconnecting shore power and bleeding off the pressure by opening a faucet. Then turn on the 12v pump and pressurize the system. Turn of the pump and reconnect city water. This will force the check valve in the pump to close if it’s not gummed up or worn.

[John in Santa Cruz]

odd, I only see two hoses to the ShurFlow pump. when I look at the ShurFlow catalog, the check valve is an entirely separate SKU and I don't see it anywhere near the pump plumbing I can see under my bed. So I can only assume the checkvalve is somewhere else in the plumbing system... Both water inlets, city and tank fill, are aft of the street side wheel wells, and the pump is near the water heater under the forward bed. so I'm guessing this check valve is elsewhere in the system.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

odd, I only see two hoses to the ShurFlow pump. when I look at the ShurFlow catalog, the check valve is an entirely separate SKU and I don't see it anywhere near the pump plumbing I can see under my bed. So I can only assume the checkvalve is somewhere else in the plumbing system... Both water inlets, city and tank fill, are aft of the street side wheel wells, and the pump is near the water heater under the forward bed. so I'm guessing this check valve is elsewhere in the system.

They may have a check valve sold to be used elsewhere in the plumbing system, but as others have noted, the check valve that is causing the fresh water tank to fill from the city water connection is inside the pump.

[John in Santa Cruz]

wouldn't that require 3 connections to the pump? one from the tank, one from the city water and one out to the water system?

[Vermilye]

The output of the water pump & the city water are connected together (and, of course, to the rest of the trailer plumbing). There is a check valve at the city water connection that prevents water pressure from the pump pushing water back out the city water connection.

The fresh water tank is connected to the input of the water pump & has a separate pipe & connection for the water fill. The check valve in the pump prevents water from the city water connection from going through the pump & filling the fresh water tank.

Someone that has CAD drafting skills can probably do a drawing that would work better than the description...

[C&G in FL]

The problem of the ShurFlo’s internal check valve failing and allowing the fresh water tank to overflow can be easily and more reliably corrected by purchasing a female-to-female 1/2” connector and this check valve from Amazon. Copy and paste the link in your search engine. Connect them and install on the outflow side of the pump. It is easier to install and less expensive than the ShurFlo repair kit. For what it is worth, I called ShurFlo before repairing my pump’s check valve for a second time and was told using an external check valve would not cause any problems. I’ve not had a problem with this setup in the 5 years since I installed mine. If it does fail, change out time is 5 minutes at most.

https://a.co/d/0aZfCimG

[SWCO]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

The problem of the ShurFlo’s internal check valve failing and allowing the fresh water tank to overflow can be easily and more reliably corrected by purchasing a female-to-female 1/2” connector and this check valve from Amazon. Copy and paste the link in your search engine. Connect them and install on the outflow side of the pump. It is easier to install and less expensive than the ShurFlo repair kit. For what it is worth, I called ShurFlo before repairing my pump’s check valve for a second time and was told using an external check valve would not cause any problems. I’ve not had a problem with this setup in the 5 years since I installed mine. If it does fail, change out time is 5 minutes at most.

https://a.co/d/0aZfCimG

Many folks may already have an ETI installed check valve that can be relocated (should they want one just downstream of the pump). Our 2017 5.0 TA came from ETI with a check valve installed on the hot water heater inflow pipe threads. Reace explained they added these to protect the weak check valve in the Shurflo water pump from water heater water expansion. I relocated this check valve to immediately downstream of the pump, otherwise our accumulator could not mitigate expansion form the water heater.

From an 8/18/2023 post:"
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...nks-16104.html

See post #13 as well as link in that post.

I installed a 2 gallon accumulator and moved the ETI installed check valve (explained in link). Before the valve was relocated from the inlet side of the water heater the accumulator could not mitigate hot water expansion."