Complete electric and solar dummy

[thunderworks]

We're in the final stage of developing our build sheet for our 19 Escape. We're about a week from final sign-off.

We mostly travel with a trailer, as opposed to "camping" so the bulk of the time we have shore power, but I hope to start using the trailer for more camping style experiences. Because we are mostly hooked up to shore power, and because in our old Casita the one system we had the most problem with was our 2-way (propane and AC) fridge, we're selecting the compressor, 12v fridge for the build.

We're getting one solar panel and no inverter, but are probably going to install the optional ZAMP port . . .

So, here's the question . . . if we find that we need to add solar to keep the batteries (dual 6v) sufficiently charged for the fridge, heater motor, water pump, etc., will any of the suitcase style portable panels work through the Zamp port without additional hardware? Will the controller for the Escape installed rooftop solar also manage the added portable panel should it be required?

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by thunderworks

We're in the final stage of developing our build sheet for our 19 Escape. We're about a week from final sign-off.

We mostly travel with a trailer, as opposed to "camping" so the bulk of the time we have shore power, but I hope to start using the trailer for more camping style experiences. Because we are mostly hooked up to shore power, and because in our old Casita the one system we had the most problem with was our 2-way (propane and AC) fridge, we're selecting the compressor, 12v fridge for the build.

We're getting one solar panel and no inverter, but are probably going to install the optional ZAMP port . . .

So, here's the question . . . if we find that we need to add solar to keep the batteries (dual 6v) sufficiently charged for the fridge, heater motor, water pump, etc., will any of the suitcase style portable panels work through the Zamp port without additional hardware? Will the controller for the Escape installed rooftop solar also manage the added portable panel should it be required?

First: Make sure to specify a SAE solar port - not a Zamp port. All the portable solar panels use a SAE port - the only solar panel that uses a Zamp port is Zamp. If you get a Zamp port, the first thing you have to do is reverse the port wiring to get it to work. (now getting off soapbox )

So to answer your question, all of the suitcase style portable panels will work through a SAE solar port except Zamp.

Yes, a portable solar panel will use the solar controller Escape installs. The solar port is wired in parallel with the rooftop solar panels so that the portable solar panel adds to the power from the roof panel(s).

On the fridge, I owned a Casita too and had some issues with the AC/propane fridge cooling due to the way Casita did the installation. Here's the good news - Escape installs the fridge per the manufacturer's instructions and the fridge works great. No fans, etc. are needed and I have had the fridge keep everything frozen and cold in 117 deg temps (don't recommend doing that again ). Casita - I would have melted ice cream every time we traveled.

Using a compressor fridge means that you may have issues when not connected to shore power. The propane mode is handy to have for those cases when you are traveling or camping where there is no 120v power available. Your choice but I wouldn't go with the compressor fridge unless I had a lot of solar or ran a generator.

[thunderworks]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

First: Make sure to specify a SAE solar port - not a Zamp port. All the portable solar panels use a SAE port - the only solar panel that uses a Zamp port is Zamp. If you get a Zamp port, the first thing you have to do is reverse the port wiring to get it to work. (now getting off soapbox )

So to answer your question, all of the suitcase style portable panels will work through a SAE solar port except Zamp - only a Zamp panel with work with a Zamp port without modifying it.

Yes, a portable solar panel will use the solar controller Escape installs. The solar port is wired in parallel with the rooftop solar panels so that the portable solar panel adds to the power from the roof panel(s).

On the fridge, I owned a Casita too and had some issues with the AC/propane fridge cooling due to the way Casita did the installation. Here's the good news - Escape installs the fridge per the manufacturer's instructions and the fridge works great. No fans, etc. are needed and I have had the fridge keep everything frozen and cold in 117 deg temps (don't recommend doing that again ). Casita - I would have melted ice cream every time we traveled.

Using a compressor fridge means that you may have issues when not connected to shore power. The propane mode is handy to have for those cases when you are traveling or camping where there is no 120v power available. Your choice but I wouldn't go with the compressor fridge unless I had a lot of solar or ran a generator.

Thanks for your detailed reply. It's very helpful.

Escape is "working" on an alternative to the Zamp port. At this point, they don't offer an alternative, but I assume adapters to the Zamp wiring are available. Is it a complex task to "reverse" the Zamp wiring, or is there an adapter that does that?

The problem we had with the Casita fridge (a Dometic #2453) was that on AC, it froze everything . . . freezer, refrigerator portion . . . everything. The propane wouldn't stay lit while driving. Parts for the 21 year old appliance were not available. It was very frustrating. The compressor option seems to solve both problems, assuming we're connected to shore power or have adequate solar capacity.

I do travel with a small Honda generator. We live in Kansas where it is hot, so the ability to run an ac (with the generator when not on shore power) is important. I really don't know how much, if any, dry camping we'll do . . . so thought that between a single solar, and the generator in a pinch, we could keep the batteries adequately charged. I've read that modern, compressor RV fridge's pull relatively little power.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by thunderworks

Thanks for your detailed reply. It's very helpful.

Escape is "working" on an alternative to the Zamp port. At this point, they don't offer an alternative, but I assume adapters to the Zamp wiring are available. Is it a complex task to "reverse" the Zamp wiring, or is there an adapter that does that?

The problem we had with the Casita fridge (a Dometic #2453) was that on AC, it froze everything . . . freezer, refrigerator portion . . . everything. The propane wouldn't stay lit while driving. Parts for the 21 year old appliance were not available. It was very frustrating. The compressor option seems to solve both problems, assuming we're connected to shore power or have adequate solar capacity.

I do travel with a small Honda generator. We live in Kansas where it is hot, so the ability to run an ac (with the generator when not on shore power) is important. I really don't know how much, if any, dry camping we'll do . . . so thought that between a single solar, and the generator in a pinch, we could keep the batteries adequately charged. I've read that modern, compressor RV fridge's pull relatively little power.

If you have a Zamp port, the wiring can either be reversed where it connects to the solar controller or you can use a SAE to SAE Polarity Reverse Adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Connect...6761318&sr=8-5

If you are going with a compressor fridge, you may want to consider adding the second roof solar panel and of course, the dual batteries or lithium. On cloudy days, a single panel may not be able to recover the power used by the fridge. It's no fun sweating out whither the batteries will last through the night or are you going to wake up with the furnace dead and the fridge defrosted.

The small generator should be close to 2200 watts or better to be able to run the AC. Some owners have gotten by with a 2000 watt with a soft start kit but it's marginal. Just a heads up.

[h2owmn]

adapter. easy, works great. https://www.amazon.com/Tecmate-Optim...6761992&sr=8-2

[thunderworks]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

If you have a Zamp port, the wiring can either be reversed where it connects to the solar controller or you can use a SAE to SAE Polarity Reverse Adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Connect...6761318&sr=8-5

If you are going with a compressor fridge, you may want to consider adding the second roof solar panel and of course, the dual batteries or lithium. On cloudy days, a single panel may not be able to recover the power used by the fridge. It's no fun sweating out whither the batteries will last through the night or are you going to wake up with the furnace dead and the fridge defrosted.

The small generator should be close to 2200 watts or better to be able to run the AC. Some owners have gotten by with a 2000 watt with a soft start kit but it's marginal. Just a heads up.

Thanks again. I am ordering the dual 6v batteries and my Honda (it's the 2200i) ran the AC in the Casita easily. The larger unit in the Escape will no doubt tax the Honda, but according to Escape, it will do it with the soft start (even the 13,500 btu Coleman).

Based on what you've said, I think I'll go ahead and have the Zamp port installed. If we find that we do need more solar, I'll add a portable panel adapting the Zamp fitting accordingly.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by thunderworks

Based on what you've said, I think I'll go ahead and have the Zamp port installed. If we find that we do need more solar, I'll add a portable panel adapting the Zamp fitting accordingly.

That's fine - just make sure to tell Escape to wire it as SAE (flip the polarity). If you don't, they will wire it as a Zamp.

I have rewired a number of Escape trailers after they said their portable solar panels wouldn't work. Of course, with reversed polarity, the portable was actually reducing the output of the roof panels - not adding. Flipped the wiring and all was well.

[camp4528]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

That's fine - just make sure to tell Escape to wire it as SAE (flip the polarity). If you don't, they will wire it as a Zamp.

Thanks very much for your expertise here. I am also planning my solar configuration, but my build sheet isn't due anytime soon.

I just have a point of clarification please.

If ETI "flips the wires", do I still need to use the SAE to SAE Polarity Reverse Adapter, or is it either one or the other?

Thanks...

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by camp4528

Thanks very much for your expertise here. I am also planning my solar configuration, but my build sheet isn't due anytime soon.

I just have a point of clarification please.

If ETI "flips the wires", do I still need to use the SAE to SAE Polarity Reverse Adapter, or is it either one or the other?

Thanks...

Nope. Flipping the polarity takes care of it. Probably the right way to do it as I would lose the adapter and then where would I be?

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

On the fridge, I owned a Casita too and had some issues with the AC/propane fridge cooling due to the way Casita did the installation. Here's the good news - Escape installs the fridge per the manufacturer's instructions and the fridge works great. No fans, etc. are needed and I have had the fridge keep everything frozen and cold in 117 deg temps (don't recommend doing that again ). Casita - I would have melted ice cream every time we traveled.

Using a compressor fridge means that you may have issues when not connected to shore power. The propane mode is handy to have for those cases when you are traveling or camping where there is no 120v power available. Your choice but I wouldn't go with the compressor fridge unless I had a lot of solar or ran a generator.

Rick (Thunderworks), our experience is in agreement with Tom here. I have a 2019 5.0TA and find the refrigerator works great. For our use I wouldn't go through the expense nor hassle of boosting my DC.

We also use our trailer more for travel than as campers, we seldom have hookups for overnight stops. We have the ETI solar, it keeps us with plenty of DC power (we do have an inverter and we do use it regularly). When you are traveling it is hard to get much use out of a portable solar panel. If I were to order again, I would put in the Zamp port, but up to this point we have not needed to supplement our roof solar and would not have used a portable. I would add the port just thinking it might be something we want in the future, but according to what you are describing I think your roof top panel would take care of you unless you are sold on the compressor fridge.

[thunderworks]

I'm relatively inexperienced with RVs and all the associated systems. We only have a season of experience with the Casita. During this season however, I have read numerous complaints and threads about problems with absorption refrigerators. I could easily be wrong here, but it seems to me that there are more issues with these refrigerators than any other single system in an RV. I spent countless hours researching how to repair our malfunctioning unit and eventually gave up when a mobile repair service told me that there were no parts available for my 21 year old unit.

Recently, we toured a two year old 19 Escape. The owners had already replaced their 3-way fridge once (under warranty I think) and the replacement unit was now not working properly either. After viewing the newish Escape, with a modern unit, I started to think seriously about the compressor upgrade.

I suspect it's one of the deals that if you get lucky, and get a good one, the propane absorption units are great. I'd rather not "pay up" for the compressor if I didn't need to, but my limited experience makes me a little hinky about it. I believe that the compressor fridges are really reliable and efficient.

Because I already have the Honda 2200i generator, which will power the batteries, I think I'll continue down the compressor fridge path.

Thank you all for your input and advice. It's all appreciated.

[Vermilye]

No matter what port or portable panel you get, I'd check the polarity before connecting the panel to the trailer. There is just too much of a possibility that it is not wired as expected.

It is not difficult to switch the wiring if it is wrong. I'd do that rather than carry an adapter that might get lost of forgotten to be used.

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by thunderworks

I'm relatively inexperienced with RVs and all the associated systems. We only have a season of experience with the Casita. During this season however, I have read numerous complaints and threads about problems with absorption refrigerators. I could easily be wrong here, but it seems to me that there are more issues with these refrigerators than any other single system in an RV. I spent countless hours researching how to repair our malfunctioning unit and eventually gave up when a mobile repair service told me that there were no parts available for my 21 year old unit.

Recently, we toured a two year old 19 Escape. The owners had already replaced their 3-way fridge once (under warranty I think) and the replacement unit was now not working properly either. After viewing the newish Escape, with a modern unit, I started to think seriously about the compressor upgrade.

I suspect it's one of the deals that if you get lucky, and get a good one, the propane absorption units are great. I'd rather not "pay up" for the compressor if I didn't need to, but my limited experience makes me a little hinky about it. I believe that the compressor fridges are really reliable and efficient.

Because I already have the Honda 2200i generator, which will power the batteries, I think I'll continue down the compressor fridge path.

Thank you all for your input and advice. It's all appreciated.

No problem Rick, this is your trailer and I believe you need to make it what you want. Had a compressor refrigerator been available when I was buying I would have seriously considered it as well.

I think you will be happy with the compressor fridge, I would venture to say others with the compressor fridge will weigh in here and relate how happy they are with their decision.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by Ronn

I would put in the Zamp port, but up to this point we have not needed to supplement our roof solar and would not have used a portable. I would add the port just thinking it might be something we want in the future,

We didn't need a portable for the first 200+ nights camping. Then, in a matter of three weeks, we needed a portable twice, big time.

We now have a Renogy 200 watt portable with 45' of wire, Victron 100/20 controller, and a Zamp Port (reverse wired), in addition to our 170 watt panel/GoPower controller, both systems wired to our dual 6v AGM batteries. We've needed the portable only once since purchased, but will need it again sometime in the future.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Jim Bennett]

When I installed my Zamp port I just ensured the polarity to the solar controller was correct. With the reverse polarity well know of and mentioned here, it was no problem. I used the correct colour wire from the Zamp leads cut short.

If you get the Zamp now and wish another make in the future, given the small size hole required for the Zamp I would imagine this would be an easy job.

[AndNeitherDoI]

Originally Posted by thunderworks

We're in the final stage of developing our build sheet for our 19 Escape. We're about a week from final sign-off.

We mostly travel with a trailer, as opposed to "camping" so the bulk of the time we have shore power, but I hope to start using the trailer for more camping style experiences. Because we are mostly hooked up to shore power, and because in our old Casita the one system we had the most problem with was our 2-way (propane and AC) fridge, we're selecting the compressor, 12v fridge for the build.

We're getting one solar panel and no inverter, but are probably going to install the optional ZAMP port . . .

So, here's the question . . . if we find that we need to add solar to keep the batteries (dual 6v) sufficiently charged for the fridge, heater motor, water pump, etc., will any of the suitcase style portable panels work through the Zamp port without additional hardware? Will the controller for the Escape installed rooftop solar also manage the added portable panel should it be required?

I had the Zamp port added and the one question that may confuse you is if you want it wired to the Escape solar controller. If yes, then you just need to find a 12v solar panel without a controller. If no, then you'll need to get a solar panel and controller for that panel (usually sold together and more expensive).



I opted for the Zamp port to be wired to the Escape solar controller. I purchased a Renogy 100w folding suitcase panel (without controller), an MC4 to SAE connector with polarity reverser adapter, and 15 ft MC4 extension cords. I just open the panel, plug it in to the Zamp port, and it charges. No worries. When it's all connected, it stays together. To lose the polarity reversing adapter, you'd have to lose the solar panel.


I'm full timing and have solar on the roof. in the summer months, the roof was sufficient to keep the batteries charged. Now there is less time for the sun, I absolutely depend on the suitcase panel to charge.

[h2owmn]

I do not have the rooftop solar. As requested (2018), I supplied Escape with the Zamp port and paid $100 to have it installed. Which looks like it entailed drilling a hole in the fiberglass and caulking it, and coiling a few feet of wire inside the bench (17 with rear batteries) They wouldn't connect it to anything back then; don't know if it is the same now. Perhaps I don't know what work this would entail, but it seemed like the only thing on the build sheet that was unnecessarily expensive.

I do use the polarity adapter; It's duct taped to the regular cord of the solar panel. I do have an extra (cheap insurance).

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by h2owmn

I do not have the rooftop solar. As requested (2018), I supplied Escape with the Zamp port and paid $100 to have it installed. Which looks like it entailed drilling a hole in the fiberglass and caulking it, and coiling a few feet of wire inside the bench (17 with rear batteries) They wouldn't connect it to anything back then; don't know if it is the same now. Perhaps I don't know what work this would entail, but it seemed like the only thing on the build sheet that was unnecessarily expensive.

I do use the polarity adapter; It's duct taped to the regular cord of the solar panel. I do have an extra (cheap insurance).

I installed a SAE solar port myself - one 3/4" hole cut through the fiberglass and four screws. I sealed the flange with Proflex to keep the water out.

It was so easy to do and cheap. $11 for the port and it came with the screws.

https://www.amazon.com/dstfuy-Weathe...843047&sr=8-16

[AndNeitherDoI]

Originally Posted by h2owmn

I do not have the rooftop solar. As requested (2018), I supplied Escape with the Zamp port and paid $100 to have it installed. Which looks like it entailed drilling a hole in the fiberglass and caulking it, and coiling a few feet of wire inside the bench (17 with rear batteries) They wouldn't connect it to anything back then; don't know if it is the same now. Perhaps I don't know what work this would entail, but it seemed like the only thing on the build sheet that was unnecessarily expensive.

I do use the polarity adapter; It's duct taped to the regular cord of the solar panel. I do have an extra (cheap insurance).

I too have extras and this is a super good idea. One of the prongs broke off on my other one and a package of five was $10.

[Dcboyd]

Only other suggestion. If it ain’t on build sheet it ain’t gettin done!!