Drill, baby, drill...

[TahoeJoe]

...for solar! It's time for my DIY solar install on my 5.0, and I'm trying to decide where to drill into the roof for the wiring. I still haven't decided on exactly which panels I'll get or where I'll mount them, but all options that are on the table will require creating an entry point for the wires (I don't like the fridge vent option).

I don't care too much about where it is in on the roof, my main concern is about wiring it all after I make the hole. There's a great unused space above the fridge for wires and also the charge controller, but then I'd need to wire it down and over to the other side where my batteries are, and would that require taking the fridge out to get at it and how hard is all that? Perhaps the passenger side would be easier to work with, but there is not a big unused space like above the fridge...maybe down into the cabinet above the dinette, and then down the back corner wall into the battery compartment? Pretty easy for wiring, but then the charge controller would have to go under the dinette, which isn't my favorite place for it. Another option would be to go down into the cabinet above the sink, with the charge controller installed on the wall near the entry door...then I could tuck the wiring through the cabinets to the back corner and down. Or maybe there are other better options I'm not even thinking of!

If you did a DIY install on your Escape, where did you drill and how did it go after making that hole?

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

...for solar! It's time for my DIY solar install on my 5.0, and I'm trying to decide where to drill into the roof for the wiring. I still haven't decided on exactly which panels I'll get or where I'll mount them, but all options that are on the table will require creating an entry point for the wires (I don't like the fridge vent option).

I don't care too much about where it is in on the roof, my main concern is about wiring it all after I make the hole. There's a great unused space above the fridge for wires and also the charge controller, but then I'd need to wire it down and over to the other side where my batteries are, and would that require taking the fridge out to get at it and how hard is all that? Perhaps the passenger side would be easier to work with, but there is not a big unused space like above the fridge...maybe down into the cabinet above the dinette, and then down the back corner wall into the battery compartment? Pretty easy for wiring, but then the charge controller would have to go under the dinette, which isn't my favorite place for it. Another option would be to go down into the cabinet above the sink, with the charge controller installed on the wall near the entry door...then I could tuck the wiring through the cabinets to the back corner and down. Or maybe there are other better options I'm not even thinking of!

If you did a DIY install on your Escape, where did you drill and how did it go after making that hole?

If you go with A Victron charge controller, it doesn't matter where you put it (although the closer to the batteries, but not in the battery box, the better) since all the reading & settings are done over Bluetooth using your phone. Mine is under the rear passenger side seat. I replaced the Escape provided GoPower controller with a Victron 100/30 when I went to lithium.

[Centex]

Not there yet myself but will be soon enough and I'm also going to go with a 'dedicated' PV cable entry points involving shell penetrations. I'm hot and heavy into detailed planning at this time.

Personally my plan calls for not situating/drilling the cable entry until near the last step of the install, after panels are mounted and after I've made the final decisions about situating the controller in the trailer and mounted that. Obviously as you recognize it's all related / interdependent so all must be considered at each step along the way, but the actual entry point is one of the somewhat flexible items so I'm gonna make that a late action in terms of drilling so it can 'flex' if any hiccups come-up along the way on other things in spite of 'best laid plans'.

Having said all that, my 'plan' calls for cable entry into a overhead cabinet space with cable routing in those OH cabinets to a place for the vertical drop to the controller in a dinette bench. I know I don't want the cable entry in a difficult to access location like over the fridge. Methinks the horizontal run will be easier in the OH cabinet and I'm inclined to do the vertical drop to the bench behind the removable corner wall-trim as rubicon327 (Dave) documented in his Mini-split conversion thread for routing his AC refrigerant lines from the dinette bench to the OH rear cabinet.

Not sure how many or where your panels will be, but in my case the above plan will yield the shortest runs from panels to controller, always a desirable thing in terms of line-losses. Yes, I definitely want my Bluetooth Victron Controller in close proximity to the battery for similar temperature environment as suggested by Victron.

One opinion, just for your consideration, Have Fun and keep us posted!

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Centex

Not there yet myself but will be soon enough and I'm also going to go with a 'dedicated' PV cable entry points involving shell penetrations. I'm hot and heavy into detailed planning at this time.

Personally my plan calls for not situating/drilling the cable entry until near the last step of the install, after panels are mounted and after I've made the final decisions about situating the controller in the trailer and mounted that. Obviously as you recognize it's all related / interdependent so all must be considered at each step along the way, but the actual entry point is one of the somewhat flexible items so I'm gonna make that a late action in terms of drilling so it can 'flex' if any hiccups come-up along the way on other things in spite of 'best laid plans'.

Having said all that, my 'plan' calls for cable entry into a overhead cabinet space with cable routing in those OH cabinets to a place for the vertical drop to the controller in a dinette bench. I know I don't want the cable entry in a difficult to access location like over the fridge. Methinks the horizontal run will be easier in the OH cabinet and I'm inclined to do the vertical drop to the bench behind the removable corner wall-trim as rubicon327 (Dave) documented in his Mini-split conversion thread for routing his AC refrigerant lines from the dinette bench to the OH rear cabinet.

Not sure how many or where your panels will be, but in my case the above plan will yield the shortest runs from panels to controller, always a desirable thing in terms of line-losses. Yes, I definitely want my Bluetooth Victron Controller in close proximity to the battery for similar temperature environment as suggested by Victron.

One opinion, just for your consideration, Have Fun and keep us posted!

If you also include a Victron Smart Shunt or the 712, you can purchase their battery temperature sensor. Goes on the positive battery post & the Victron networking can send the information to both the shunt & the solar controller. An inexpensive addition that will provide a more exact battery temperature. I've set mine up to shut off the Solar Controller when the outside temperature goes below 34°F. While the battery BMS does the same thing at 32°F, it is additional insurance...

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by Centex

Not there yet myself but will be soon enough and I'm also going to go with a 'dedicated' PV cable entry points involving shell penetrations. I'm hot and heavy into detailed planning at this time.

Personally my plan calls for not situating/drilling the cable entry until near the last step of the install, after panels are mounted and after I've made the final decisions about situating the controller in the trailer and mounted that. Obviously as you recognize it's all related / interdependent so all must be considered at each step along the way, but the actual entry point is one of the somewhat flexible items so I'm gonna make that a late action in terms of drilling so it can 'flex' if any hiccups come-up along the way on other things in spite of 'best laid plans'.

Having said all that, my 'plan' calls for cable entry into a overhead cabinet space with cable routing in those OH cabinets to a place for the vertical drop to the controller in a dinette bench. I know I don't want the cable entry in a difficult to access location like over the fridge. Methinks the horizontal run will be easier in the OH cabinet and I'm inclined to do the vertical drop to the bench behind the removable corner wall-trim as rubicon327 (Dave) documented in his Mini-split conversion thread for routing his AC refrigerant lines from the dinette bench to the OH rear cabinet.

Not sure how many or where your panels will be, but in my case the above plan will yield the shortest runs from panels to controller, always a desirable thing in terms of line-losses. Yes, I definitely want my Bluetooth Victron Controller in close proximity to the battery for similar temperature environment as suggested by Victron.

One opinion, just for your consideration, Have Fun and keep us posted!

That's a good approach and I'm on the same page as you now...I've narrowed down what I will order (probably this week), and once I get it all here I'll start mapping out the install...I'll report back here!

[Mark892]

Have you find your drill?


I'm using drill Bosch drill for home DIY and its working best.

[Perry Butler]

Go up on the various solar forums and you'll find one constant: have your solar controller and/or inverter as close to the batteries as possible. The losses can be significant. There is an electrical reason Rease stopped installing the solar controller above the fridge.

We had our GoPower controller zip tied underneath the dinette bench as close to the batteries as possible. Within three months of owning our Escape I installed a Victron 712 to monitor the batteries, and a year later removed the GoPower controller and installed a Victron 100/30 with 8 awg cables to the battery bank.

Last month we added three 100 watt Renogy panels to the roof giving us 465 watts on the roof and a possible 26 amps to the controller (I've already seen 22 amps being sent). In our campground this weekend was a brand spanking new Escape 21 with 600 watts neatly on the roof! We're both from Minnesota and camp in shaded situations so the extra watts are handy. OTOH, 170 watts is just fine for us when camping in Texas/Arizona. We do have a 100 watt portable though. You should design for possible future expansion.

Like Vermilye said, if you go with Victron it doesn't matter where the controller/monitor is located. In addition, my phone can see the Victron controllers/monitor when I'm driving down the road (yes, probably illegal in some states). It's amazing how much the watts change depending on which direction you're driving.

Enjoy,

Perry

[UncleTim]

Perry, what batteries are you using?

I may end up doing this when these lead-acid batteries die.

Do you have a link to the Victron?

Thank you.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by UncleTim

Perry, what batteries are you using?

I may end up doing this when these lead-acid batteries die.

Do you have a link to the Victron?

Thank you.

We're using 260 ah Soneil SiO2 batteries, and so far they're fantastic. They charge extremely fast and have yet to go below 85% SOC.

Victron Smartsolar 100/30 controller

Victron BMV-712 Smart battery monitor
or
Victron SmartShunt battery monitor

Enjoy,

Perry

[MyronL]

Here's my Victron MPPT, about as close to the Battleborn as I could get it.

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

Go up on the various solar forums and you'll find one constant: have your solar controller and/or inverter as close to the batteries as possible. The losses can be significant. There is an electrical reason Rease stopped installing the solar controller above the fridge.

We had our GoPower controller zip tied underneath the dinette bench as close to the batteries as possible. Within three months of owning our Escape I installed a Victron 712 to monitor the batteries, and a year later removed the GoPower controller and installed a Victron 100/30 with 8 awg cables to the battery bank.

Last month we added three 100 watt Renogy panels to the roof giving us 465 watts on the roof and a possible 26 amps to the controller (I've already seen 22 amps being sent). In our campground this weekend was a brand spanking new Escape 21 with 600 watts neatly on the roof! We're both from Minnesota and camp in shaded situations so the extra watts are handy. OTOH, 170 watts is just fine for us when camping in Texas/Arizona. We do have a 100 watt portable though. You should design for possible future expansion.

Like Vermilye said, if you go with Victron it doesn't matter where the controller/monitor is located. In addition, my phone can see the Victron controllers/monitor when I'm driving down the road (yes, probably illegal in some states). It's amazing how much the watts change depending on which direction you're driving.

Enjoy,

Perry

My current plan has me putting the controller very close to the batteries in the compartment. I decided to buy a separate battery monitor, and that's the unit that I will install far away, probably by the front door. Now as I wait for my parts to arrive, my biggest question is...will I screw all of the panels into the roof, or use the tape/sealant method to avoid all those screw holes?

[Centex]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

.... I decided to buy a separate battery monitor ...

Curious to hear what monitor you've selected?

[MyronL]

I just ordered this on eBay, $10, an extra monitor in the tongue box.

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by Centex

Curious to hear what monitor you've selected?

Right around the time I started thinking about this project, I got a new client at my accounting firm, and one of the things they do to take money as full-time RV'ers is to work as "Solar Educators". Long story short, we hit it off and they are giving me a bunch of help and advice with my project, and in return I am buying just about everything from Renogy, because they make a little money from each sale as affiliates, and I also get a discount from Renogy (on top of any sale discounts) for purchasing through these guys. So...I ordered Renogy's 500A monitor, which they have and vouched for:
https://www.renogy.com/500a-battery-monitor/

[Centex]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

...I ordered Renogy's 500A monitor ...
https://www.renogy.com/500a-battery-monitor/

Gotchya, thanks. So that's a shunt-based monitor similar in concept and capability to some of the Victron BMV series, it certainly appears to be one of the several viable competitive alternative to some of the Victron offerings.

I went with the Victron BMV-712 simply because I was already committed to the Victron MPPT BT controller, liked the idea of being able to monitor via BT in my tow vehicle, and figured the commonality of the BT user interface would make life a little easier. But yeah, it's more costly even just comparing street prices.

I make a distinction between shunt-based monitors and 'monitors' that only derive / impute data from battery terminals or connection directly to a 12v power-line. IMO the former provide an opportunity for much more comprehensive understanding of system behavior and status (YMMV).

[Effie]

I’m using all Victron components for Solar charging and monitoring and I couldn’t be happier. I found Victron always deliver on the specs and are very flexible
to accommodate different installations. One big advantage with Victron is the Bluetooth communication between components. The battery monitor (712) will transmit battery voltage, current and temperature to the MPPT controllers, and if you do have multiple controllers they also communicate with each other to synchronize charging. Very advanced but relatively simple system and you can see and control everything from your smartphone app.