Fridge has no 12v power

[turp]

I've sent in a message to ETI, but figured I'd ping here in case someone already has been through this. I've got the Dometic 2663 fridge in my 2017 21'. Ran the unit on propane all weekend, first chance to do a shakedown of the trailer since getting it. Fridge worked quite well until the return trip home. It lost all dc power, no internal light and no control panel lights. Fortunately, the fridge was mostly empty so no mess. Checked the trailer power center, the 30amp fuse there is good. Checked the 1 am inline and the 30 amp blade fuse located in the rear of the fridge behind the louvered access panel. All good. Is there something simple I could be missing?

[War Eagle]

Just to cover your bases (in case ETI asks if you checked them, too), there are two more traditional-style fuses inside the black plastic control panel on the back of the fridge, a 3 amp and a 5 amp, that snap in place. You might want to pull the cover off the box and check those, too. Did your 12V ceiling lights continue to work during this. Best of luck....

[H46Driver]

There is also a fusable link. It's a wire that has a 180 degree crimp in it with one end attached to the chimney stack. When that goes, the frig dies. Mine died about 4 days after picking up the trailer. Fred Morón's went about 2 1/2 weeks after he got his and his replacement link went about 5 days after being installed. For a sort term fix a straight wire will work.

It takes a bit of time to get your new link so if you're going to use the trailer plan on the unfused wire being in place for a couple weeks. Fred had the forsight to leave his unfused wire hooked up at on end so it was ready to go when he blew his second link.

[Red Dog]

Originally Posted by H46Driver;198564.

Fred had the forsight to leave his unfused wire hooked up at on end so it was ready to go when he blew his second link.

Not sure what is going on. Sent an email to ETI.



Fred M.

[H46Driver]

Originally Posted by Red Dog

Not sure what is going on. Sent an email to ETI.



Fred M.

Our new fusable link has been in for 6 weeks now and frig has been on the entire time - but we haven't run more than a half hour or so at a time on propane - wonder if it's gonna blow when we hit the road for a long transit on propane thus building more heat? I did bend the wire so that the link is a bit further from the chimney figuring that although its function is to sense too much heat, if it's too close to lots of heat (chimney stack) it may burn up too quickly.

[gocamp]

By fusable link, is that the same thing as what some folks call Thermal cutout disc....red wires, to trip DC power to fridge if high temp sensed due to cracked boiler tube. It is a safety device and if tripping you should check for yellow residue around burner area? photo link attached Thanks
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=mobotap&q=...all%252001.jpg

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by gocamp

By fusable link, is that the same thing as what some folks call Thermal cutout disc....red wires, to trip DC power to fridge if high temp sensed due to cracked boiler tube. It is a safety device and if tripping you should check for yellow residue around burner area? photo link attached Thanks
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=mobotap&q=...all%252001.jpg

A klikon or thermal sensing switch would make more sense than a fuse. One of the problems with Klikon style thermal switches is that the disc warps and breaks the circuit and when it cools back down it doesn't always reset.. Sometimes you can manually reset a stuck switch but I wouldn't bet on it. If you know the setpoint and range of the switch you can buy them @ WW Grainger.

[gocamp]

To the fuseable link Dave was talking about, im wondering what the part looks like, not how it operates. Still wondering what it looks like here out of all the other wires to look at. The op would need to know what to unplug if they are told to change out the fusable link/thermal sensing switch/thermal cutout disc/klikon/

[steve dunham]

A klikon / thermal switch normally is a round switch with 2 tabs out the back to attach slide on stakon terminals to the switch .
It has 2 ears with screw holes for mounting the switch.On one side it has a shiny metal disc centered in the switch .
When the switch senses temperatures beyond its' setpoint , the disc warps and either opens or closes the switch. When it cools the disc returns to its' normal position and allows the switch to return to its' normal state. The problem is sometimes vibration or heat causes the switch to change states and then it gets stuck in that position.
It's a fairly simple mechanical $3 switch and they fail.
In this case the switch would have normally closed contacts and the switch is designed to open when it gets too hot and shut down the source of heat. In other words it is a high temperature limit or safety device . Some Klikon's are NOT designed to automatically reset as a safety precaution or have a manual reset.

[turp]

Work and weather kept me from getting to this until today. Reace also responded to check the fusible link. I've located the fusible link (red wire, black wrapping w/ 180 deg crimp). One end comes out of the red item on the chimney (assuming that's also some kind of heat related safety switch), runs back into a 180 bend behind the chimney, on the lower part of the enclosure. It is not obvious that it is bad, not sure if it has a visible indication. Anybody know of a way to tell, or is it a bypass it and if the fridge works, that's the issue? All other 12v items work, as well as the 120 v items.