Installing the PD Wildkat converter

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

I found the adapter bracket in the small bag with the remote. Before I thought they meant the base plate when they said "adapter bracket". I'll go back and put the bracket in. Thanks again.

I'd also like to know if the remote is necessary. There is a jumper on the circuit board that I set to "lithium" and I don't see needing to change anything after the converter is installed.

Your suspicion is correct: The "Charge Wizard" is great for forcing boos mode with Lead-Acid batteries when you're charging from a generator, or "in a hurry" for other reasons. But it serves no purpose with Lithium batteries and the Lithium DIP switch set - the WildKat runs as a 2-stage charger in Lithium mode "CV" at high voltage, and then directly down to "Float" when the current drops off.)

You can always sell the pendant for $10 on Ebay.

[h2owmn]

Thanks for all this info...turned out to be very timely. The wildcat arrived yesterday and was installed; just checked this morning and all is well after overnight on shore power. Later today a test of just sitting, and also of solar charging.

[MikeS]

Originally Posted by rickst29

Your suspicion is correct: The "Charge Wizard" is great for forcing boos mode with Lead-Acid batteries when you're charging from a generator, or "in a hurry" for other reasons. But it serves no purpose with Lithium batteries and the Lithium DIP switch set - the WildKat runs as a 2-stage charger in Lithium mode "CV" at high voltage, and then directly down to "Float" when the current drops off.)

You can always sell the pendant for $10 on Ebay.

I don’t think this is accurate and I would be very interested if you have any documentation stating this. As I understand and from my personal experience, with the jumper set to lithium the wildkat charges at 14.4 continuous. It is essentially a single stage converter in that mode.

Again, if you have documentation to the contrary please share because I could not locate any.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by MikeS

I don’t think this is accurate and I would be very interested if you have any documentation stating this. As I understand and from my personal experience, with the jumper set to lithium the wildkat charges at 14.4 continuous. It is essentially a single stage converter in that mode.

Again, if you have documentation to the contrary please share because I could not locate any.

All I can say from my experience with the Progressive Dynamics PD 4635LIV (which is suppose to be an equivalent) it does not seem to drop to float, even after running overnight on full batteries.

That is why I installed a single pole, double throw switch in place of the jumper. I incorrectly stated in the previous post that I used a single pole , single throw switch. In order to be able to switch the center pin on the jumper between the two outside pins, you need a double throw switch.

I can switch it back to lead acid & use the Charge Wizard to force it into float. Only problem is if it decided to go into Equalization. Might be better to just shut off the breaker to the converter after the batteries balance. I don't use hookups all that often, and the Victron solar controller is very good about going into float after the preset absorption time.

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by MikeS

I don’t think this is accurate and I would be very interested if you have any documentation stating this. As I understand and from my personal experience, with the jumper set to lithium the wildkat charges at 14.4 continuous. It is essentially a single stage converter in that mode.

Again, if you have documentation to the contrary please share because I could not locate any.

Mine did 14.6V, in bench testing with a very accurate "Coulomb Counter" meter. Since I haven't done any "plugged-in RV camping" in the last year (only boondocks), I haven't verified that recently. Maybe Randy has changed his firmware specifications since mine was built -- I got one of the very first ones, IIRC it's more than two years old. But I've also tested with another WildKat on a class B upgrade job last fall, and I think I saw 14.6 V with that one as well. (I'm not positive about that, I did the job many months ago).


But your concept of using the switch AND pendant to force it down to "float" sounds very good. Like you, I have a pretty carefully tuned Solar controller, with a lot of panels "upstairs".

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

All I can say from my experience with the Progressive Dynamics PD 4635LIV (which is suppose to be an equivalent) it does not seem to drop to float, even after running overnight on full batteries.

That is why I installed a single pole, double throw switch in place of the jumper. I incorrectly stated in the previous post that I used a single pole , single throw switch. In order to be able to switch the center pin on the jumper between the two outside pins, you need a double throw switch.

I can switch it back to lead acid & use the Charge Wizard to force it into float. Only problem is if it decided to go into Equalization. Might be better to just shut off the breaker to the converter after the batteries balance. I don't use hookups all that often, and the Victron solar controller is very good about going into float after the preset absorption time.

I have had a conversation with PD’s tech support about the two stage lithium profile, at this time they only have one or two stand alone charge converter that does that. They are gradually going to convert all their charges to the dual stage lithium profiles, but at the moment supply chains are slowing that down. There was a good broadcast on Mike Sokol channel about it. I ordered the wildcard converter as I’m not ready to go to lithium yet and the two stage standalone is lithium only. Also not all batteries call for two stage. My next trailer will have lithium and at that stage I’ll go with a more sophisticated charger.