Inverter not converting 12V to 120V to run microwave oven

[John in Santa Cruz]

to clarify the above... currently, I wired each battery with its own pair of + and - wires to the bus bars, with 120A ANL fuses inline with the plus cables, using AWG 4. I am toying with wiring the batteries in parallel using AWG 1/0 and using that single T fuse instead, I read that the ANL fuses are slow blow and not reliable for really high current applications. I don't expect to ever exceed 200A peak,

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I bought this Class T 225A fast-blow fuse holder, Blue Sea brand, to replace my ANL fuses, along with some AWG 1/0 wire and 3/8" ring terminals, with the idea of redoing my battery mains but I have yet to convince myself its worth doing.



p.s I have L or XL hands per my glove size.

John,
Thank you for posting the photo which gives me an idea of what a class T 225 Amp fuse look like, so that I can search for it. I appreciated your help.

Tonny LR

[oldwave]

I bought a hammer crimper that I had excellent success with and it’s good to 4/0. A brass small hammer worked very well and it was inexpensive.

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by oldwave

I bought a hammer crimper that I had excellent success with and it’s good to 4/0. A brass small hammer worked very well and it was inexpensive.

Thanks. I saw hammer crimper on you Tube and how to use it. It works, but a proper crimper works best. $20 VS. $70.

Tonny LR

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I bought this Jon to replace my ANL fuses, along with some AWG 1/0 wire and 3/8" ring terminals, with the idea of redoing my battery mains but I have yet to convince myself its worth doing.



p.s I have L or XL hands per my glove size.

John,
In order to install a Class T 225A fast-blow fuse holder, Blue Sea brand, I would like to ask if you need to fabricate a copper bass bar to connect to the fuse holder from the battery terminal? Thanks.

Tonny LR

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by Tonny LR

John,
In order to install a Class T 225A fast-blow fuse holder, Blue Sea brand, I would like to ask if you need to fabricate a copper bass bar to connect to the fuse holder from the battery terminal? Thanks.

No. No buss bar needed.

I merely purchased a 9" 2/0 cable that connects the positive battery post to a spot outside of the battery box where the Class T holder is placed.

Once you install the Class T fuse you don't need a fuse at your battery post. That's the Class T's duty.

I did keep the thermal breaker going to the WFCO, but that's a separate 8 AWG line to the WFCO from the 4-way Blue Seas battery shutoff. The 2/0 cable to the inverter is also branched off from the Blue Seas shutoff.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by Perry Butler

No. No buss bar needed.

I merely purchased a 9" 2/0 cable that connects the positive battery post to a spot outside of the battery box where the Class T holder is placed.

Once you install the Class T fuse you don't need a fuse at your battery post. That's the Class T's duty.

Perry,
Thank you for the Class T fuse holder installation instructions. I am thinking of ordering wires from Batterycableusa.com. They sell pre-measured 6 ft 2/0 gauge cable, pre-crimped and heat shrined with selected terminal connections at a reasonable price. Plus two short pieces for 6V battery serial connection. I learned from you all that Right size and right length of cables to reduce voltage loss and more power to the inverter. Will go with the 250 amp fuse that you suggested.

Tonny LR